Guillows 18" span Sopwith Camel - Page 5 - RC Groups
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Jan 23, 2013, 07:25 PM
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glewis's Avatar
Cool, thanks for the links and your videos.
I can see why you wouldn't want to iron that thin foam. The Starship is 6mm so a low temp iron didn't bother it at all.
Just got my tissue cut and the stencil adhesive is drying on the carrier sheets now.
I'll be firing up the printer here in a few minutes.
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Jan 23, 2013, 08:31 PM
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glewis's Avatar
Got the tissue printed. It's ready for the clear lacquer coat.
Should the tissue be coated first? Just a couple of really light mist coats to seal the ink?
Jan 24, 2013, 12:58 AM
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Jugjock's Avatar
Hello, Glenn!
Been down with the flu and haven't been interested in much more than sleeping for the past two weeks. Another of your superb threads with lots of great tips and innovations. Up to speed now and following closely.
Jan 24, 2013, 02:23 AM
Senile Member
Lnagel's Avatar
That Camel is going to be fantastic with that weathered look.

I recommend that you don't put the printed tissue directly on the airframe. One reason is that there is no effective way to shrink it and make it taught. The other is that once the tissue has been sealed with lacquer it will be very translucent. That translucency will muddy the colors and show the understructure.

Instead, cover the airframe with something like white CoverLite. Put a couple coats of lacquer on the CoverLite. Then adhere the printed tissue to the CoverLite with lacquer thinner and a final coat of laquer. That will give you a more opaque finish and the printing will have brighter colors and the details will show better. Plus the printed tissue will not sag when applicayed to the taught CoverLite.

Jan 24, 2013, 06:55 AM
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glewis's Avatar
Those are the very things I was concerned about.
I figured the colors would wash out some but didn't consider the tissue becoming translucent.
I do like he idea of a white substrate and now that you mention it that is a method Paul used on his micro Hellcat.

Covering an 18" span model in coverlite then tissue might be adding a lot of weight. Not sure about that with the limited power available. Even solite seems like it would be on the heavy side for such a small model but that might be my only choice.

Maybe this whole printed tissue thing just won't work the way I had hoped. I might be better off going with painted tissue and save the double covering job for a larger model.
Jan 24, 2013, 11:07 AM
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HanksGB's Avatar
Glenn, Larry

Would putting the tissue over tissue work? Cover the model in white tissue then put the printed tissue over that? The way I paint i think it would come out lighter than painting tissue.

Great graphics by the way Glenn.

Jan 24, 2013, 11:22 AM
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glewis's Avatar
Thanks Hank
I was thinking about maybe doing that but plain white tissue will also get translucent once doped. Not much to be gained there. I was thinking maybe silkspan, but that will get semi translucent but maybe no more so than white solite.

I did some weight comparisons between solite and coverlite and came up with some interesting results.
Solite weighs .6oz per sq yard, that's 15.25g.
Coverlite wiighs .9oz per sq yard, that's 21.4g
I'm figuring I can cover the model with a piece of covering 18" x 24"
That works out to solite 5.2g and coverlite 8.13g and that doesn't include the adhesive required. Coverlite weighs 56% more but in the end it is only 3 grams more. The adhesive will add what, another gram?

For that 3 grams I get a very durable material that is fairly opaque and the biggest plus over solite is it will take paint. My concern with the solite is the lacquer will just flake off taking the tissue with it.

So at this point it looks like the coverlite would be the best choice overall.
I will do the same comparison using 000 silkspan.
Jan 24, 2013, 12:03 PM
Fly, dangit!!!
Led Zepplin's Avatar
Larry - Your DVIII looks really good. I think you have a good technique with covering the white then applying the tissue, sort of like 'full airframe decals'.

Glenn - Looking good as always. I'm thinking you are on the right path with the white Coverlite. I have recently been using Coverlite and really like it. I'm sure you'll make it look really awesome no matter which tactic you take!

J. B.
Jan 24, 2013, 04:07 PM
Balsa Lover
gupi's Avatar
Interesting that you guys mention that the lacquer makes the white tissue translucent. The dope that i use doesn't make the tissue translucent at all.

I buy it at my LHS and it's called Spannlack (dope). I need to thin it 1:1 for usage and it's acetone based. After 2 or 3 coats the tissue becomes slightly glossy but that's it.

You can use it to glue the tissue to the frame and it'll shrink the tissue very nicely. It doesn't touch the printer's inks. It doesn't seal the tissue from humidity completely, though. I fly my models in foggy weather quite often and the tissue gets slightly saggy. I never noticed the tissue coming off though and i didn't notice any difference in the flight performance.

Check out how white tissue looks after one coat of dope on my current project:
Jan 24, 2013, 04:30 PM
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glewis's Avatar
Did you use the kit supplied silkspan?
That is what I was thinking in my post above, I don't recall silkspan getting translucent after doping. It does a little, but I think it would be about the same as solite. I have a whole box full of silkspan. Maybe I should try printing on it?
Jan 24, 2013, 05:06 PM
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gupi's Avatar
Yes, i think this the tissue that came with the kit. I have other brands, too. I have heavier ones and lighter ones like the Japanes Esaki. But none of them went translucent.
Jan 24, 2013, 06:55 PM
Registered User
Originally Posted by gupi
Interesting that you guys mention that the lacquer makes the white tissue translucent.
If I'm one of "you guys" - I specifically referred to Minwax Water-based Polycrylic, not lacquer, as used on everyday packing tissue. The transparent result is great in applying tissue "decals" to foam models.

Gene K
Last edited by speedy01; Jan 25, 2013 at 05:11 AM.
Jan 24, 2013, 07:24 PM
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glewis's Avatar
I printed the graphics on domestic tissue and just printed another tail group graphic to try out. I'm going to spray some lacquer on it and see what happens. I'm pretty sure it will get translucent just as yours did with the WBPU.
I checked my tissue stash and I have plenty of silkspan. If the domestic tissue doesn't work guess I'll try the silkspan.
I'm sort of having my doubts this will work and guess I'll call the lhs tomorrow and see if they have any white coverlite.
If not then I'll use dark green and antique white tissue on the thing and print my own decals and be done with it. I'm not ordering a 5 dollar package of covering and spending 10 bucks to ship it from Graves in Orlando.
Jan 24, 2013, 09:47 PM
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glewis's Avatar
The experiment begins.
Took the tissue out to the shop and sprayed a light coat of lacquer on it. The stuff smells a lot like dope.
Surprisingly it didn't turn the tissue much more translucent than it was to start.
Made up a dummy horizontal stabilizer to cover. Cut the graphic for the top side and attached the tissue with a 'permanent' glue stick. I like the glue stick, it gives a little time to work the tissue before it grabs. Actually it doesn't look too bad. Once the glue stick dries for a bit I'll spray the tissue with alcohol and see what happens.
I'll only do one side at a time in case something goes wrong with the shrinking. If the alcohol works I'll try water on the other side and see if the ink runs and if the tissue even shrinks.Not worried about warps on the dummy structure.
Jan 25, 2013, 08:40 AM
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glewis's Avatar
After the glue stick had time to dry, I sprayed a light coat of alcohol on the tissue. It shrank some and the ink did not bleed at all! Cool!

Covered the bottom side and let the glue dry for a while and this time I sprayed on a mist of water. The lightly sealed tissue went limp then tightened up as expected and the ink didn't bleed using water either. This is getting better all the time!

After the tissue dried, I gave it a medium coat of spray Minwax lacquer. The tissue sagged a bit then as the lacquer dried it pulled tight. Tighter than before the lacquer indicating that it did shrink some.

I think tonight I will attempt more experiments. The first being brushing a coat or two of thinned lacquer on and see if the tissue shrinks any further. Once that dries I will subject the frame to a water torture test to test how well the lacquer protects the tissue and if the glue stick releases.

If those the test results are satisfactory, think I will strip the frame and clean it off. I will cover it again, this time with tissue that does not have a coat of lacquer 'fixer' sprayed on pre-covering.
Note in the picture above, the tissue has a slightly wrinkled appearance. This happened when the 'fixer' coat of lacquer was sprayed on.
This experiment will be to see if the fixer coat can be eliminated.
The tissue will be alcohol shrunk to test for ink bleed then 'doped' as before and the smoothness of the finish using both methods compared.

The finished stab is slightly translucent, but it is acceptable. I'll post pics later.
I think seeing the framework through the covering is part of the charm of stick and tissue models.

Stay tuned, this method is looking very promising even without a white substrate!


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