EON Olympia 2b by Aussie RC Plans - Page 6 - RC Groups
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Feb 11, 2013, 02:15 PM
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Thanks Don.
I was thinking while doing it about the heavier ply and the Lite wheel!
Maybe they will even out...

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Feb 11, 2013, 02:50 PM
Designing something...

I can laser cut some 1/32" G-10 for you.

Feb 11, 2013, 02:55 PM
Registered User
Hey Brian,
maybe on the next one

Feb 13, 2013, 11:52 AM
Registered User

Nose Skid

My interpretation of the skid follows, with help from the Charlesworth plans; see the PDF for details

1/32" ply sub-skid base
Skid itself is 3/8" wide at front, 7/8" at back, straight taper
Laminate skid from 3 layers of 1/16 ply with stainless steel or hard aluminum glued to bottom after covering gap (hard landing strips). If flying from grass, you can laminate or use 3/16" spruce steamed and bent to shape and forget the metal.

Solid hardwood front skid block and back support.

Rubber heater hose at single suspension point; screw into fuselage and floating against skid. Not exactly scale suspension holder, but no one will see it as the gap will be covered, as per full size.

The skid is allowed to slide at the back during compression.

For whatever reason, the PDF file ended up as the last picture in this post, instead of the third, and I can't get it to move. Oh well.
Last edited by shinck; Feb 16, 2013 at 09:28 AM. Reason: heater hose attachment changed per SZD16
Feb 15, 2013, 10:58 AM
SZD16's Avatar
Looks good! I would recommend attaching the rubber hose with something more then just epoxy......they tend to take a beating overtime. I screw mine to the fuse and let them just flout against the skid.....
Feb 15, 2013, 02:16 PM
Registered User
I had thought about that also. Thanks for the practical suggestion, which I will use.
I have edited Post #80 to include that information.

Last edited by shinck; Feb 16, 2013 at 04:49 PM. Reason: updated
Feb 17, 2013, 11:51 AM
Registered User

Tail Skid

The tail skid is being made now in order to get most of the fuselage completed. It won't be fitted and installed until the last piece of bottom rear sheeting is in place, which won't be done until the pull-pull wire exit is determined, which can't be done until the fin and rudder are made and the rudder horn can be positioned on the fuselage to determine where the wires need to exit for a straight-line connection.
In short, I just wanted to do it now.

Parts need to be cut and laminated together, then sanded to outline; ply inset fitted and glued; and sides angled. Fitting will require sanding to conform to the rounded fuselage bottom, tapering the back to match the rudder base, and tapering the front to nicely fair into the fuselage.
Last edited by shinck; Feb 17, 2013 at 12:03 PM.
Feb 17, 2013, 12:56 PM
Registered User

Glue line question

I'm looking forward to finishing the fuselage, and am having a problem with the glue lines being harder than the balsa. I can't get it smooth because of this; you can feel (and will see) the "faceted" glue lines. I have thought of hardening the skin with a coat of finish--epoxy--so it all sands about the same?
I was going to finish the fuselage with polycrylic and Sig Koverall, as used by both dgliderguy and NoStep. So I would like a fix that won't mess me up using this finish.

Feb 17, 2013, 07:45 PM
Where's the lift?
dgliderguy's Avatar

If you don't mind a lot of dust and handwork, you could butter up the entire fuselage with sandable spackle and let it dry overnight, then cross-sand (alternate criss-cross pattern) down to the first sign of wood. A rubber sanding block, like you find at the auto body supply stores, is good for this kind of work. It requires more patience than I have, which is why my Schweizer 1-26 has some facets here and there. The guys I fly with won't beat me up over it (I hope!).
Feb 17, 2013, 09:09 PM
Registered User
Lite spackle or the regular/heavy stuff?
Feb 17, 2013, 09:58 PM
Where's the lift?
dgliderguy's Avatar
I'd recommend the regular, myself, to keep from oversanding, and baby it down with finer grades of sandpaper as you go. I used to do auto body work in my college years, and the experts taught me how to slow down as you get closer to net shape. I had a hard time learning that one! I was always applying more filler, to hide my scratches and overgrinds.

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