EON Olympia 2b by Aussie RC Plans - Page 2 - RC Groups
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Jan 13, 2013, 05:13 PM
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At this point put the side longerons and top and stab pieces in place and make sure everything is square and fits before continuing.
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Jan 13, 2013, 05:42 PM
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Dry fit

I removed the closest longeron and all the top pieces and put the rest of the formers in position. Use the photo below (seen earlier) to get the rest of the fuselage parts in order from nose to tail. NO GLUE YET

NOTE: the wheel well sides need to be put on F13, then F12 and F14 can be added to lock it into place. I can tell you that putting the wheel well sides in after all the formers are in place is not easy! I would also recommend gluing the wheel well sides and doublers together before assembly; check position on F12 thru F14 and mark before gluing. The doublers were not a smooth radius, so I sanded them with a 3" drum on the drill press; this will give a smoother surface when sheeting the well.
As the entire sailplane will land on one small 2.5" wheel, I recut the doublers using 1/8" birch ply. I will also reinforce the axle area later.

With the formers in position, add the longeron you took off, as well as the top pieces, stab supports and F24a, canopy top and bottom pieces with F10a & b and F11, F6 and F6a, wing roots, plus the aerotow servo tray, battery tray, and servo tray. The indent on the front of my tow release tray had to be made deeper so that it would engage the former tongues. STILL NO GLUE!
Last edited by shinck; Feb 05, 2013 at 01:48 PM. Reason: additional info
Jan 13, 2013, 05:45 PM
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Before gluing everything, I used small pins to separate the two lower canopy frames. F6 and F6a will also be separated and NOT glued together. After sheeting the fuselage, you will be cutting the canopy base off between these pieces. A little space will make it easier.
Wow! That looks like a fuselage, and even without glue it is pretty sturdy.

The next series of posts will be gluing the basic fuselage together (finally).
Jan 13, 2013, 08:12 PM
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Fuselage glue-up

Glue top rear spine in place.

Glue F28, 29 & 30 together and position with stab supports and side longerons (don’t let these get glued in place yet).
Jan 13, 2013, 08:17 PM
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Glue in stab supports.

Glue F24a to spine and stab supports.

Glue top nose longeron/keel in place.

Glue bottom of intermediate formers to keel. Use clamps as necessary to make sure keel is all the way up into the former slots. Tack in place with CA or Super Phatic; I went back later and brushed Titebond III into the all the joints for added strength.
Jan 13, 2013, 08:23 PM
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I had a “bump” in the fuselage, above the wheel well, at this point. Gluing the wing root faces and front in place solved that problem. Use clamps as necessary to make sure the top of the wing roots line up even with the tops of the formers.
Jan 13, 2013, 08:26 PM
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I tack glued the upper and lower canopy frames in place, then went over them later with Titebond. Remember, no glue between lower frames

Glue the F10 partial formers in place, keeping glue out from between the lower canopy frames.
Jan 13, 2013, 08:30 PM
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Take off the right longeron and glue it in place, using as many clamps as needed to keep it in all the former slots. I am not going to glue in the left longeron until I have set up all the equipment; makes it a little easier to get the fingers and trays inside.
Jan 13, 2013, 08:35 PM
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Glue in F6A and F6, in that order. Leave a little space between them and DON’T glue together.

Glue wheel well sides to lower formers. If you didn't glue the wheel well sides and doublers together earlier, then you can add the inside doublers later after the fuselage is turned over.

You can also glue on the ¼” square spruce or hard balsa pylon stringers to each side (one of the very few non-laser cut parts). I kept it long to help in clamping. Trim even with F16 when dry.

Reminder: DO NOT glue the 3 trays in until later. Equipment needs to be installed on these first.
Last edited by shinck; Feb 13, 2013 at 11:51 PM.
Jan 13, 2013, 08:43 PM
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A little break here from construction to talk about what equipment I plan to install.

Here is the equipment selected for this sailplane:
Rudder and tow release – Hitec 645MG
Elevator (in the stab) – Hitec 85MG
Ailerons – Hitec 225MG
Spoilers – Hitec 85MG
Receiver – Airtronics FHSS-1 8-channel
Airborne power – (2) 1300 LiFe Source 6.6v packs, (2) HD on-off switches, Smart-Fly BatShare dual-battery electronic switch, Castle Creations BEC 10 amp voltage regulator set at 5V for receiver and servos

Scale wood Schempp Hirth spoilers are included in the kit. Scale length is between 230 and 292mm, depending on whose drawings you go by, and open top and bottom; so 2 pair are needed if going the commercial route. iflytailies.com has 250mm in two different heights, for a good price.

Aerotow release – commercial cam in tube
Rudder pull-pull will use a remote Nelson BB bellcrank (no longer available)

Here is why I went a bit overboard on the battery setup. My first ¼ scale sailplane was a Flair Ka8b, a wonderful kit and STRONG. A $10 switch on the airborne pack went out while in a thermal and the airplane gracefully spiraled itself into the ground. Looking back, I knew the switch wasn't quite right, but did I change it out? NO! Hence, the redundancy.
The K8 is still in the "to-be-repaired" bin.
Last edited by shinck; Jul 10, 2015 at 11:53 AM. Reason: add info
Jan 13, 2013, 08:53 PM
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Aerotow Release installation

The aerotow release goes right where the laser cut holes are in the nose formers. You will need to cut off the keel in front of F1 and drill out the holes in as many formers as necessary to accommodate your release mechanism—F1 and F2 in my case. Before epoxying the release in place, I set up the release servo and rod. I found that I got a nice straight run if I had the cam lever on the release canted to the side, plus I didn’t have to drill through all those formers in the nose. You will also notice the brass tube extension for the aerotow release (glued on later). The release tray can now be glued.
Jan 13, 2013, 09:23 PM
Alien_Tech's Avatar
Scott, that release is pretty slick. How is the parts fit going from metric to standard wood?

Jan 13, 2013, 10:04 PM
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Parts fit is really not a problem, yet. The "1/8 inch" liteply we use is really 3mm, so all the slots fit fine. And there aren't many pieces that are needed that aren't laser cut. The spars will be cut to fit if not a standard size. A little sanding is all that has been needed, and that is not because of material thickness or the design.

Jan 13, 2013, 10:55 PM
Where's the lift?
dgliderguy's Avatar
Great thread, Scott. I'll be following with intense interest.

I have the Cliff Charlesworth plan, too, for some day. The Olympia Meise has always been one of my favorites, for attractive lines and lots of vintage woody appeal. A worthy project in every respect.
Jan 14, 2013, 12:28 AM
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Hi Don,
thanks for lookin'
Been watching your 1-26E build also


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