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Feb 16, 2013, 11:51 PM
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cyberhoops's Avatar
About 36 inches long ... We run them as spec scale hydros using NAMBA rules, which basically limits us to just a few motors, like the Proboat 1500 or stilleto. Since we also race counterclockwise, we have far more limited prop choices as well. The boats go about 40 give or take a bit. But it does make for pretty evenly matched and competitive races.
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Feb 17, 2013, 03:03 PM
RELAX. You'll live longer
785boats's Avatar
It's all looking good Cyber.

Here's a couple of pages of props with quite a few opposite hand pitch props.
Some are de tongued some are 1.8 & 1.9 pitch. Two blade & three blade.
Might broaden your choice a bit. I'm using a couple & they work pretty good.
I know they look expensive, but take out your time for not needing to sharpen, thin, & balance them & it's not so bad. Although I do sharpen the leading edge a bit more.
Free postage too. You'll find these props are very popular across Europe & Asia.
Just a thought.

http://stores.ebay.com/VXperformance...=p4634.c0.m322

Paul.
Feb 17, 2013, 06:51 PM
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cyberhoops's Avatar
Sweet!!! Thanks for the tip Paul, I will be ordering some new prop options for sure. I just ordered the 942 2 blade and a 4418 ( 44mm 1.8 pitch) 3 blade .... and looking at a couple more. A lot of options other than the x447.
Last edited by cyberhoops; Feb 17, 2013 at 07:27 PM.
Feb 17, 2013, 07:59 PM
RELAX. You'll live longer
785boats's Avatar
Just a note with the higher pitch props. Some hulls will require some strut adjustment to get them to work properly . They can cavitate quite severely.
I hope some of our European friends can enlighten us a bit on these props.

Steve at Off shore Electrics also sells some. Left & right hand props. Please note. Left & Right terminology is different betreen American & European Props. Totally opposite.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...+2+Blade+Props

Cheers.
Paul.
Last edited by 785boats; Feb 17, 2013 at 08:10 PM.
Feb 17, 2013, 08:39 PM
RELAX. You'll live longer
785boats's Avatar
Cyber.
With regards to your Exhaust, these guys make a heat shield but I' can't find any actual pipes.

http://www.hydroscalecreations.com/M.../MiscItems.htm

I'm sure if you contact them they will be able to offer some advice on what is commonly used.
But that Filemetal over a thin piece of plastic pipe of the right diameter sounds like a good idea.
Feb 18, 2013, 01:04 AM
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cyberhoops's Avatar
Ahh. --- Hydroscale, ie Mitch Dillard, lives just a couple miles from me. I didn't realize he had a web site. I will give him a call, once I get back from my week of vacation here in Maui.

Point taken about high pitch props and cavitation, but it is worth some experimentation.
Feb 25, 2013, 10:16 PM
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cyberhoops's Avatar

Turbine Exhaust


Here is the foam version of the turbine exhaust, with a couple wood bits for some strength, and to use as attachment points into the cowling.

Still going with the theory of fiberglassing, then melting out the foam.
Feb 26, 2013, 06:37 PM
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http://classicthunder.org/SetUp/TPipe.htm

would this work for you jim?
Feb 27, 2013, 12:41 AM
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cyberhoops's Avatar
That is not bad at all. I think I could make that work as well.
Feb 27, 2013, 01:04 AM
RELAX. You'll live longer
785boats's Avatar
Both ideas look pretty cool. I guess 'hot' would be a better terminology since it is a turbine exhaust pipe
I take it that you will still use the Flite Metal tape over which ever one you decide on ? I really like the look of that stuff.
Feb 27, 2013, 10:24 AM
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cyberhoops's Avatar
I do still plan to cover it with Flite Metal - assuming that the sample sheet shows up someday. It has been a couple weeks now and no joy as yet. I have fiberglassed over the pink foam now. There are some little ripples in the epoxy, so I need to get those smoothed out before I dissolve out the foam.
Feb 28, 2013, 10:37 PM
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cyberhoops's Avatar

Turbine Exhaust


Well, three layers of lightweight fiberglass cloth, and a bit of bondo later... we have the turbine exhaust. I sanded down the bondo layer to almost nothing, and there are places where the epoxy shows through.

At first I tried nail polish remover to remove the foam, but it didn't work all that well. After a trip to the hardware store for some acetone I was amazed at how it melted down the foam to nearly nothing. There were a couple stringy globs of pink, but it really wiped it out.

It is not all that pretty now, but black paint on the inside of the pipe, along with Flite Metal (aluminum foil) on the outside should make it look pretty good. A screw from inside the cowling into the wood plate at the front of the exhaust will hold it on the boat, and maybe one more screw up through the cowling into the wood plate on the bottom of the exhaust.

I also got the hatch retention bolt in the back of the cowling. It is just a bolt going through to a carbon fiber tab in the hull. I backed the carbon fiber tab with a 1/8" piece of plywood and inserted a blind nut into the plywood. I think that will be enough to hold down the hatch, and once it is painted yellow it will not be a significant distraction.
Last edited by cyberhoops; Mar 01, 2013 at 09:55 AM.
Mar 01, 2013, 05:55 AM
Thermite + ice = Big boom.
boaterguy's Avatar
Looks nice!
Where did you get the foam?
Mar 01, 2013, 09:49 AM
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wparsons's Avatar
Looks like standard closed cell foam insulation. Home Depot sells it in 4'x8' sheets, and sometimes you can get off cuts for cheap (or free) if you ask.
Mar 01, 2013, 09:53 AM
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cyberhoops's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by wparsons
Looks like standard closed cell foam insulation. Home Depot sells it in 4'x8' sheets, and sometimes you can get off cuts for cheap (or free) if you ask.
Exactly correct.


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