K-E-os at last - Page 5 - RC Groups
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Jan 24, 2013, 05:11 PM
Blew out my flip flop
David Hogue's Avatar
Originally Posted by Mendo
Somewhere in my stash I have a 25in span laser cut micro kaos kit, I also gave one to my father. Park 250 on 2s for decent performance and a park 280 or hacker a10 series motor on 3s for serious scoot. If I get a chance I will have to dig it out and give some more details.

This one?

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Jan 24, 2013, 06:34 PM
Registered User
Mendo's Avatar
Originally Posted by David Hogue
Thats the place! I had Bob Leserve do some cad work and cut me a kit for a project and picked up a couple of the 25in kaos kits to ship with it. Awesome guy and service. I will say that even though his kits are very reasonable in price, a fellow can still go broke in a hurry there!

Jan 26, 2013, 08:10 PM
Registered User
*sigh* Dereck can't get into his shop due to company.

I can get into my shop, but I can't work long as it's too blasted COLD, even with a hot monokote iron in my hand.

Jan 27, 2013, 01:29 PM
Visitor from Reality
Peace and Beauty are restored! The horde went off and are back home. In non-traditional fashion, Granny did all their laundry and nearly caused suitcase packing coniptions with the amount of extra pink-ish clothing they went home with.

Okay, back to the K-E-os project. Most of the day was spent restoring the BDF, grocery shopping - a 2 year old female child can eat more banananananas than a herd of monkeys, it seems - and so on. But I have the top mainspar made up and glued to the top wing sheeting. As the top of the wing is flat from tip to tip, the spar is actually made from a 36" length of 1/4 x 1/8" spruce with a 12"-ish bit scarf jointed to it to make a flat 48" length.

Would be a lot further on if some idiot hadn't make a mukkers of the wing centre brace and now I have to make another one...

Jan 27, 2013, 03:27 PM
Visitor from Reality
Okay, piccies at last.

As the top mainspar is straight, the wing's being built upsidedown. I made up the top spar from 36" spruce stock with a scarf joint that's way out towards the tip. By the time, the wing LE D box is all made up, I don't think that'll be a weak spot. The bottom spars will be two piece, meeting at the centreline as usual.

Right now, the ribs are only sitting there. I have to cut out a new dihedral brace, but must leave that until tomorrow and 'working hours' - not sure if my neighbours underneath could hear my somewhat noisy jigsaw, but after a week of their living with the racket of the family visit, they deserve a little weekend peace and beauty.

The wing will then be built out from the centre area around the dihedral brace. Or is that the 'Not Really All That Much Dihedral Brace'?

I've also got to finish up the aileron servo mounting ribs. Call me wierd - and you won't be the first - but the last aircraft to look good with most of its controls hanging on the outside was the Tiger Moth. So, with luck, all you'll see of my aileron drives are the pushrods and aileron surface horns.

Also have to remember to fit the paper tubes from the servo mount to the centre holes for the aileron leads.

I need to practice more...

Jan 27, 2013, 07:34 PM
Registered User
The straws from Starbucks are also not bad.
Jan 28, 2013, 02:54 PM
Visitor from Reality
Originally Posted by Al M
The straws from Starbucks are also not bad.
Are they big enough to feed a servo extension socket through, or do you make yours up by feeding the wire through and attaching plugs/sockets afterwards?

Jan 28, 2013, 08:47 PM
Registered User
Usually the wire if I leave them round instead of forcing them a little flat.
Jan 29, 2013, 01:39 PM
Visitor from Reality
Got something wooden going on! Not sure what the inspiration was to do aileron servo mounting in ribs like this, but for me, it dates back to the Four Star 40 in 1998.

A balsa rib - R4 here - is doubled up with liteply on its outer face from spars to TE and cut out for the servo - Hitec HS225BB here. Small ply strips on the inside face of the rib offer secure fastening for the servo mount screws.

The hatch will be nothing more than 1/16" balsa, cut out for the pushrod, covered to match the wing and taped into place. Sometimes I get fancy after the trimming is sorted and replace clear sticky tape with matched up covering film - though not often...

These servos are a good number here - their leads are long enough to make it out of the centre section without needing extension leads.


Jan 30, 2013, 09:46 AM
Visitor from Reality
This wing is close to cheating!

Usually, I have to hinge my building boards together and prop them on my table at dihedral angle, then build the wing from the middle out.

As the Kaos has a flat top to its wing, with the dihedral due to the taper on the undersides, I just pinned 48" of 1/4" x 1/8" spruce onto my long board atop the plan and started up and out from the middle by gluing the dihedral brace onto the top of the spar.

A very important point in building a wing upside-down - try and figure out where the servos REALLY need to be before gluing in their rib mounts. Glad I woke up here...

Loosely, I started by gluing in the root ribs and the outermost tip ribs. The TE is made up of a 1/4" balsa strip glued to the 1/16" balsa cap and then fastened to tip and root ribs. Now, as my ribs were hand-cut as opposed to laser cut, I can trim them to match the TE as needed.

It's a very fidgety wing to build. Glad I left the trike gear out - fitting the torque rod blocks for the mains out in the wings would have really caused some unprintable mutterings.

Feb 01, 2013, 04:01 PM
Visitor from Reality
At last - movement!

Being unable to figure out a way to build two left hand wing panels, I nearly mounted the aileron mounting ribs downsideup

The wing's being built inverted on the board, so all the rib jigging tabs are on the upper side of each rib - few clues here, as the ribs are symmetrical. However - and note this - I drew them 'right way up' on what could jokingly be called my 'plan'.

So, if I'd carried on, I could have started a new fad of having the servo hatches and pushrods on the topside of the wing - marginally uglier, I feel, than having a sleek, fast looking model with servos hanging around mostly on the outside of the model.

Fortunately, I woke up in time and my servos will be minimally seen on the undersides of the wing...

The paper tubes for the servo leads were made by cutting some thick office-ish paper to length, wrapping it tightly around a handy #2 circular sectioned knife handle, poking it through ribs 2 & 3 and then slipping the knife handle out of the paper tube. The latter then sprung enthusiastically open to match up to the holes in the ribs. A little thin CA and clear office stickytape and all is well in the servo lead guide world.

Next, to finish sticking ribs in, paint two house doors, have neighbours over for drinkies and nibbles tonight and then contemplate how and where the wing LE goes in the world...

Feb 01, 2013, 05:10 PM
Build more, websurf less
FlyingW's Avatar
Hey Dereck,

While taking in your "slotless rib" wing approach, I noticed that there are some slots, presumably for the main spar. Is that because the spar is thicker than the sheet balsa?

I want to make one now...

Feb 01, 2013, 07:52 PM
Registered User
I started running my push rods out of the top of the wing to keep the water out.
Feb 01, 2013, 07:56 PM
Visitor from Reality
Hi Paul
This structure's got 1/4 x 1/8 bass / spruce mainspars under 1/16" sheeting - D box LE capstrips and C channel TE, so the ribs need slotting for the mains. I thought about using my slotless ribs, but chickened out on account of it's not going to really be an idle Sunday cruiser and may weigh four pounds.

I glued the top one piece mainspar atop the 1/16" D box sheet before getting down to tedium like fitting ribs. Next will be a real trip to Drag City - fitting the spar webs to create an I beam main spar. I'll do that before I place the bottom spar - then the bottom D box sheeting will be fitted. When all's diddled with, gluing on the LE will lock up the D box and hence the wing, making any warps into permanent features.

Technically, 1/16" x 1/2" hardwood at the back edges of the D box sheeting should work though...

If I had gone that route, would likely have tapered the hardwood as I've tapered the C channel TE top and bottom caps.

I really have to apply myself to serious issues - like, do I just spray the canopy inside or find a suitable pilot bust? The likes of Speed Racer, Miss Piggy or even Cedric Courageous are well below this model's ancestry, so where do I go?

Feb 01, 2013, 09:05 PM
Registered User
An appropriate pilot for a Kaos? How about Maxwell Smart...although Agent 99 would be a lot more photogenic


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