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Jan 30, 2013, 12:56 PM
srt8madness's Avatar
You're really bookin it on this build! Everything looks great, keep up the good work
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Jan 30, 2013, 06:06 PM
Registered User
Ldm's Avatar
great job , keep up the good work , glad to see you use the depron idea !!!!
Feb 01, 2013, 06:49 AM
Cohen the Barbarian
Thanks for the great information Pete, it really helps my confidence in using these new (er) materials and methods.

By my standards this build is progressing slowly at the moment, as I am only working on one part while learning and practising new methods. I try to ensure that I get at least something done every day. I can usually find an hour or so most days, so a full build will take 3 to 6 months.

Looking at the cowl, I will probably re make it in depron, the other alternative is to hollow the balsa out to about a 3mm shell, or simply (!?!) make a mould and produce a fibreglass only version. I know it is probably easy, but I have not made a mould before.

The stab has been sanded to aerofoil section, pics to follow. Total thickness, with skins, will be about 7/16, compared to a plank. Weight will be almost exactly the same as the factory part. I have also ordered some CF square tubing, an may make another stab if I feel there is a further weight saving to be made. (Mutters to self about not having a LHS within 300 miles)
Feb 02, 2013, 03:32 AM
Cohen the Barbarian

Skinning the stab...

or should that be stabbing the skin?

Made up the upper 1/32 balsa skins and glued them in place. The aerofoil profile was left rather flat on the underside so that the stab would be more resistant to warping when the weight was applied during gluing.

Once the glue dried, the skins were sanded smooth and the edges trimmed. By observation there is another advantage to using Depron - I have read many horror stories in build threads of fingers going through 3/32 skins while sanding. With the depron underneath, there is virtually no chance of that happening.

The lower skins and tips will be made and fitted in the next day or so, then on to the fin, rudder and elevators.
Feb 02, 2013, 05:49 AM
Registered User
Ldm's Avatar
looking great !
Feb 02, 2013, 05:18 PM
Cohen the Barbarian
Thanks for the comments and support everyone.

The lower skins are on, tips rough shaped and attached. Weight is as per original part, but looks much better, is straighter, stiffer and should be more resistant to warping and twisting in the future
Feb 04, 2013, 05:36 AM
Cohen the Barbarian
Had a little fun when I got home from work. Shaped the tips, the stab is now ready for glassing, although I may try to make the TE a half round hollow to pocket the elevator.

Dummied the fin into position to check alignment and positioning, then cut the slot for the king post and laid up the 3 layer core - depron/balsa/depron. Now the materials are on hand it hardly took any time to do it.

Should get the fin skinned in the next couple of days, and I am thinking about the best way to lay up the elevator/rudder panels.
Feb 04, 2013, 06:10 AM
Registered User
Gree's Avatar
Wow you really are motoring along on this one. Nice to see regular progress, something I don't see too often myself!
Feb 05, 2013, 04:06 AM
Registered User
Ldm's Avatar
gen , are you adding the counterbalances in the tail , or did this particular rendition not have that feature ?
Feb 05, 2013, 08:35 AM
Registered User
stuntflyr's Avatar
All Mustangs had counterbalances.
Feb 05, 2013, 02:48 PM
Cohen the Barbarian
The kit did not include any representation of the counterbalances, but they are visible in the picture I used in post 1 showing the type I am trying to represent, so I had better add them
Feb 05, 2013, 06:39 PM
Registered User
Ldm's Avatar
sorry buddy , I am not part of the scale police , just was wondering
Feb 05, 2013, 10:24 PM
Cohen the Barbarian
No problem LDM - not offended or anything. Should be an easy mod, first glance says 10 minutes, so probably an hour or so to look slick
Feb 07, 2013, 02:07 AM
Cohen the Barbarian

Shaping the fin

The fin is coming along.

For those who may be wondering, my method of shaping the fin is as follows.

First mark out, this is necessary as the two sides need to be symmetrical. In this case I have divided the fin into 3 equal areas on the approximate vertical. Reference lines are also added to get consistent thicknessing. At the TE there will be about 1mm of the second layer of balsa left on each side, at the front it is sanded to about 0.5mm into the core. as long as both sides are the same the precise measurements are not critical.

Next the first sanding, removing the bulk of the material, basically join the lines.

Finally sand to the smooth, curved profile.

The first side has been shaped and the skin is on with the glue setting.

There may be better methods, but this works for me .
Feb 08, 2013, 02:35 AM
Cohen the Barbarian

News from both ends

At the rear the fin is skinned, I will add a solid balsa tip to cover the area where the compound curves were to extreme for the skin to follow. The bare sections at the root of the fin/stab will be covered by a fillet forming the rear of the fuse.

Next the elevators and rudder, with their counterbalances will be made, then the windows for the counterbalances will be cut out of the fin/stab.

Meanwhile at the front the Tru-Turn spinner has arrived, a really nice piece of kit and a perfect match to the front of the fuse. I am still intending to redo the nose in depron, I have found it glues really easily and well with spray contact adhesive.

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