BIG 1/7h scale F-16 H-J Style - Page 4 - RC Groups
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Jan 04, 2013, 03:27 AM
I don't do Normal
Pinky_d_brain's Avatar
Thanks J
Now wheres that beer I need to work on my belly a bit more well maybe just pop corn
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Jan 04, 2013, 06:46 AM
EB-66C Team Member
J Morgan's Avatar
Pop corn won't hack it Pinky. It takes beer.

My method is really basic trial & error. I simply cut an oversize piece, roll it to approximate shape, trial fit, mark and cut. I usually only cut one side at a time. Then I do it again. I do that till it fits and then glue it. Time consuming? Yes Wasteful? Yes.
But it works well for me and once i get started it goes pretty well until I tire of doing it. Then I take a break and do something else. Wish I had some super dark secret about magical skinning technique but I just don't.

Jan 04, 2013, 08:36 AM
Registered User
W. X. Davis's Avatar
J, say your gonna hand launch this thing ????
What do you anticipate the auw to be ?

Jan 04, 2013, 10:01 AM
Registered User

Dave here is how I make pannels


Not that I think my way is better than John way but I take heavy brown paper ( the best sorce is from Christmas Wrapping paper rolls) and like John I cut an over sized peice and then refine the cuts until it fits. You can lay the paper plan right on the frames to make sure the fit is right. You then can cut the foam to the exact shape you need. There is little waste of foam. you then can take the paper plan and go to the other side of the plane and lay it on that side to see if it fits. The only thing I do is add about a 1/4 of an in to the bottom edge to adjust the fit. I like this method so I can reduce the waste of foam.

If you start with the largest pannel you might be able cut down the paper pattern for the next pannel and if your as cheap as I am you can skin a large plane and only use a very little paper.
Last edited by hersch54; Jan 04, 2013 at 10:08 AM.
Jan 04, 2013, 11:41 AM
EB-66C Team Member
J Morgan's Avatar
I'm hoping on around 8 lbs but we'll see. A lot depends on the power system, batt, etc. I'm not very good at making proposed weights so we'll we just have to see. I'll start weighing things when I get the skins on.

Another good way, I'm sure there are others too.

Well, another day and no tubes. I have my doubts if they shipped but I was told everything was shipped. They never asked which order and I guess I will give it a few more days and then call back and make them check my order.
Meanwhile, although the damned stab tube will get in the way and I will be banging it around on everything once mounted, I'm going ahead and setting up the stabs and their related equipment.
A simple FG ( I've used carbon fiber tubes as well before)arrow shaft will be the method used. I'll glue the stabs on at an angle to try to get as much anhedral as I can.
Here is my preferred method for using a single shaft on the elevators. The rod will run through bushings on each side and the control armed fixed to the shaft. I fix it by drilling out a control arm for the shaft( very snug fit), slide it into position and using a sharpened piece of music wire drill a hole through the complete assembly. It is drilled on what is left of the meaty part of the control arm shoulder.
The wire is then bent at 90 degrees and slid down to the control arm and cut off the opposite side. Epoxy both sides and unless the FG arrow shaft fails there this is foolproof. I've always worried about gluing arms on and the glue joint failing, that would be a disaster of course. You lose elevator and you lose the airplane. I've never had a failure doing it this way.
So with this done now I can glue the rod and bushings onto the flat section across the stab area.

Jan 04, 2013, 03:07 PM
EB-66C Team Member
J Morgan's Avatar
Glued the stab tube bushings on and gave them 3 layers of 3/4 glass to reinforce.
I'll set the servo now.

Jan 05, 2013, 12:58 PM
EB-66C Team Member
J Morgan's Avatar
Finally!!! Wing tubes! Now I can work on the wings, want to make sure I can blend them to the fuse.
I got the elevator servo done and then skinned over it. I'll probably make a hatch there for access after glassing.
I haven't built one of these in awhile and I forgot the stops on the stab tube to keep it from moving side to side. Fixed that by gluing a piece of bamboo skewer on the tube against each bushing.
I cut off the fuse section of the socket and glued it in the fuse on the CG, that way it won't affect balance.
Now I'm rethinking splitting the fuse in two section. If I can figure a place to transport the fuse I will glue it together in one piece. Will be easier building and I lose the weight of the fuse joiner tube.
Weighed the complete fuse........ it weighs exactly 17 oz as it sits.

Jan 05, 2013, 02:14 PM
Registered User
unclecrash's Avatar
Looking good John. Wondering where you buy your wing socket tube's from. Thanks UC
Jan 05, 2013, 09:15 PM
EB-66C Team Member
J Morgan's Avatar
Thanks crash,
I get them here.

Jan 05, 2013, 10:33 PM
Registered User
unclecrash's Avatar
Thanks John.
Jan 06, 2013, 07:24 AM
Living a Dream
Hans-Joachim's Avatar
J, the batteries will be somewhere at the front end of the canopy. So you could build a removeable nose section if you need to do. I love the line of the rear section skinning.

Jan 06, 2013, 11:36 AM
EB-66C Team Member
J Morgan's Avatar
Planning on that Hans. The nose cone will be FG and removable. Building wings right now, pics later.

Jan 06, 2013, 02:58 PM
EB-66C Team Member
J Morgan's Avatar
The placement of the wing tube on the CG was handy balance wise but functionally not very good. So I moved it more to the center of the wing.
Have port wing just about ready to cover with 3mm depron. It has a 6mm depron lower skin.
Port wing weighs 3.5 oz as it sits.
Working on the starboard one now.

Jan 06, 2013, 10:47 PM
was geht , müssen unten kommen
Keenan smith's Avatar
Stick an edf and some landing gear on it!
Jan 07, 2013, 01:24 AM
Registered User
I'm glad Wade told me about this build. Until I found this I was bored and had no reason to look at RCG.
Thanks John you saved my sanity.

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