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Thread OP
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yea, i guess it could work. except in the case where the vr failed and remained opened. so the readings will end up there eventually.
i'm not sure this failure mode is common, but certainly interesting to think about. |
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Thread OP
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an update:
i wrote a simple manual for the devices. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...C7HSnXEutw/pub still missing a bunch of diagrams for the nanowii. i'm planning to replace the 1st post with just a link to this doc soon. would like to hear any feedback or suggestions for improvement.. thanks! |
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I have tested RX3S V2 with last released FW (not the alpha). It works well, but I have to get used to dynamical gain. It surprised me a lot. It feels like extreme expo on TX. Around center its nearly locked and far away from center its very sensitive to sticks input. The way out is to use negative expo in TX, but this will be pain, when switch off the gyros by AUX.
Till now I have been using heli gyros in rate mode with constant gain - the pro is constant sensitivity to stick, con is dampened speed of rolls (have to use inputs multiplier in gyro FW). What the others think about dynamical gain? |
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Guys can someone confirm that in the v2 ref. orientation noobee's post below the switches postion 2 (on the right) is common and is ground.
The reason is that I have a few of these v2 and I was fitting the aeleron signal to rx when I noticed that whoever fitted the switch in the factory is an arse.... Soldering is rubbish and i spend 30 min unsucsessfully trying to clear the solder from touching the adjacent pins on side 2 (not the side that goes on the rx) Anyone with good tips how to clear solder? I can't get my sucking solder tool in there as it doesent fit and i tried solder wick but no use as I don't want to burn anything. Also if using solder wick shall I warm solder wick with the solder iron and aply on pins or where you want to take the solder from touching(or its vice versa) Thanks |
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Personally I suggest to put a donate button in the flight stab website.
You guys can use the contributions as you please (buy spare stuff or whatever) but it feels unfair you guys did so much work and developed a sorted code for all to use on your own time, effort and expense.... Quote:
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Last edited by ckleanth; Mar 11, 2013 at 08:59 AM.
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Quote:
If there are on solder bridges on the "ON" side of the switch (near resistors R11, R12,R20 & R21), that is a problem. These must be cleared. I normally use small sized solder wick and apply some flux to it from a flux pen. I also tin it very slightly. I then place the solder wick on top of the solder blob and then the iron on the of the solder wick. I have 5 of these RX3S's on my bench and some of them had solder blobs on the ground side that do not hurt anything but no solder blobs on the important side. Good luck. John |
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Cheers John. The side I was in about is the side closest to the pins but could not remember if it was numbered or not. Its ground then so all I need to do is to check I haven't burned the thing...
What wire gauge are you guys using to solder on the switch? The smallest wire I had looks massive. |
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Quote:
You can solder the wire either to the switch pin or the end of R11 near the switch pin. After you solder the wire and make sure you have a good connection, clean the board good with circuit board cleaner if you have it, or alcohol. After the board is dry, cover the area with hot glue including the wire. If you have to get the hot glue off, alcohol will release it from the board (that is why the board must be completely dry). There is another option if you have 2 small soldering irons. If you do, you can remove R11 and put it back on with only one side of the resistor connected to the original pad (R11 will now be covering the R11 label. You can then solder the wire to the free end of R11 and once again cover everything with hot glue after cleaning. There is solder mask on the board (the green coating) and that will prevent the free end of R11 and you wire from making contact with anything else. The 3rd option is to remove R11 from the board, add a 10K discrete resistor in series with your wire and connect that to the pad where R11 was closest to the R11 label. Again, cover everything with hot glue. The purpose of R11 is to prevent damage to the RX3S processor in case the wire going to the receiver gets connected to ground or +5V by accident. John |
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Do we have a schematic for the v2?
If r11 is the resistance close to the pins well I'm definitely not touching that.. I woulnt be able to pick it up, forget about soldering it back.. Can you show what you mean with a semantic for option 3 because I don't see the point if the resistor there unless its got a voltage input but the original configuration its just a switch to the ground...? |
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Quote:
Let me try to explain the need for the resistor without a schematic. If this does not work, let me know and I will draw a simple schematic. The pins on the processor can be either inputs or outputs under firmware control. Also each pin has a protection circuit consisting of diodes connected between the pin and VCC and the pin and ground. The diodes are connected in such a way as to prevent the voltage at the pine from going above VCC + 0.6v (diode drop) and below ground - 0.6V (diode drop). Now if we connect the pin to the receiver output and the pin is currently configured as an output for some reason and is high, the output of the RX (which is mostly near ground) will be fighting the output driver of the chip. If the receiver has the ability to sink a lot of current, something may go up in smoke. If we put a 10K resistor in between the processor pin and the receiver output, it will limit the current and prevent damage. In our case the processor pin can only get to about 3.3V and if the receiver output is at ground, the current will be limited to 330uA causing no damage to anything. When he processor pin is an input, we have to be concerned about excessive voltage applied to the pin (above or below ground). The diodes are there to prevent that but if you hook the input wire to a power supply without and current limiting resistor, again there may be smoke. Adding the 10K resistor fixes that as well. Let me know if you need a simple schematic and I will do that tomorrow. John |
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Thread OP
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this is a very interesting observation! i'm surprised you are able to tell the effect of, and difference due to, stick position gain. you must fly aerobatics or helis alot?
probably one way to address that is the stick controlled roll rate (or "fly by wire" as i maybe incorrectly called it). in this way, there will be a linear relationship between stick position and commanded roll rate. i actually have the code ready but not enabled to try it out yet. it's guarded by the #if 0 block. Code:
// angular rate control // commanded angular rate (could be from [ail|ele|rud]_in2, note direction/sign) #if 0 // max stick == 400, if << 4 then 6400 == 6400/8192*500 = 391deg/s pid_rate.setpoint[0] = ((ail_in2 - ail_in2_mid) + (ailr_in2 - ailr_in2_mid)) << (4-1); pid_rate.setpoint[1] = (ele_in2 - ele_in2_mid) << 4; pid_rate.setpoint[2] = (rud_in2 - rud_in2_mid) << 4; #else pid_rate.setpoint[0] = 0; pid_rate.setpoint[1] = 0; pid_rate.setpoint[2] = 0; #endif Quote:
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Thread OP
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check out https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...5&postcount=70 on how i soldered the AILR RX wire.
here are some notes: - use a smaller gauge wire (eg 26, 28 or even 32 awg). i used one from a breadboard prototyping kit. - if your wire is multi-strand, twist it and tin it with solder first. - if your wire is single-strand, you should tin it anyways. - the exposed wire lead is really short, about 2-3mm or so, from what i can remember - if you have flux, apply a little to the wire lead. - you need very little solder (if any). sometimes, the residual solder on the iron tip is enough to melt, apply the solder and fuse the wire to the dip switch conductor. - to solder, position the wire lead over the dip switch lead, then gently press down the soldering iron tip down to the wire lead. the heat will melt the tinned solder on the wire lead and the dip switch lead and fuse them. there is no need to move the wire at all. good luck! Quote:
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hi, noobee
I want installed in the aircraft with a flap in the glider. In the case of CPPM, are you able to output the signal to AUX_IN and ELE_IN channel 6 and 7? thanks |
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the way it is, is OK and solves the common problems of rate gyro - slowing aerobatics rolls. Your FW enables much more faster rates because it nearly disables gyro in extreme stick position and has nearly lock attitude in center stick position. But the con is significant nonlinearity to sticks. What happend when there is roll rate more than 391°/s? Could gyro chip be switched to lower resolution dynamically on each axis? BTW, Im not good RC pilot, but fly acro planes, slow planes and heli. |
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John so you recconend adding a 10kohm between wire and pin just in case the wire is connected by mistake to a voltage input... That makes sence .. Cheers
A smile came to my face when I read the point abt the microscope..... Definitely don't have that mate.. Noobee cheers for the post link. Its pretty much how I have it configured, there's no other way to solder the wire anyway. I haven't clocked a lot of air time using the gyro yet cuz I could not figure out what's going on as it was mentioned the stick input was not liniar. I thought this was due to my expo input as its been tested on a relatively new a/c but indeed if that's the problem a linear relationship between stick position and commanded roll rate is much prefered. The expo rates should be coming from the tx, all I want the gyro stabilizer to do is to compensate for external input. |
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