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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:07 AM
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by rjstrickjr View Post
AMEN!!!

My 3W 150CC is so easy to start it is almost scary. I use the same technich as the smaller gassers. Full choke and full throttle. When it kicks, low throttle open choke and shes off. I have never fliped more than 5-6 times even on a cold day. My DLE 30CC, Same way. Perhaps the OP and others having issues might check their tunning. A fine tuned engine, even a magneto, should flip start easly.
When I try to start my DLE I've got the choke on, but I'm leaving the throttle on idle. I crank the prop about 10 times to try to get the fuel moving, then I hit it with the starter until it kicks, and normally it will run for a little while with the choke on-- usually long enough for me to turn the choke off and I'm ready to fly at that point. I'm going to try with full throttle next time. If that does't fix it then I'm going to try soldering the choke hole. I will go ahead an try that on my DLE 55 since it is easy to get to right now.
Old Dec 26, 2012, 01:36 PM
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the engine should not run with the choke closed. If you can do that then you have an air leak like i suggested. did you check the gaskets between the carb and the reeds?
Old Dec 26, 2012, 01:43 PM
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Yuh huh !-manufacturers went to ignition to make engines easier to start..It's not like you have to flip them hard....an easy flip will start an engine that's ready...If it balks,there's something wrong.
With DLE's,the reed is the first place to look......once the reed is polished smooth,you can hear it vibrating on slow turns by hand,and it will be good for a long time.
I've had good luck starting without soldering the choke hole-think how much better it'll be when I DO !
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by GeetarJoe View Post
the engine should not run with the choke closed. If you can do that then you have an air leak like i suggested. did you check the gaskets between the carb and the reeds?
No I've not had a chance to tear it down with the holidays and all. It only runs for a few seconds, I've got to be quick to open the choke or it will die every time. I'm guessing it probably wouldn't do that at all with the choke hole closed. But I'm thinking there is probably something that is letting some air in.

Thanks,


Ben
Old Dec 26, 2012, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ognolman View Post
When I try to start my DLE I've got the choke on, but I'm leaving the throttle on idle. I crank the prop about 10 times to try to get the fuel moving, then I hit it with the starter until it kicks, and normally it will run for a little while with the choke on-- usually long enough for me to turn the choke off and I'm ready to fly at that point. I'm going to try with full throttle next time. If that does't fix it then I'm going to try soldering the choke hole. I will go ahead an try that on my DLE 55 since it is easy to get to right now.
I would definetly check the read valves before I soldered the hole closed like the other's have suggested. In fact you may start with just checking the torque on the bolts that hold it all to the engine. Could be as simple as a loose carb connection.
Old Dec 27, 2012, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Machzx View Post
I ordered a Tom bowman ring and he sent me a long email with pics saying that most of these Chinese engine require the removal of the reed block and the surface finish is awful
Remove the reeds an sand flat with a piece of 320 or finer sandpaper taped to a sheet of glass
If the reeds do not seal the result is hard starting because the reeds act as a one way valve for the air fuel charge
Can't suck and blow at the same time !!
I haven't tore my motors apart because my rings aren't here yet
I have an rcgf 30 as well that needs help starting too
The smaller the engine the more important that this becomes
You hit the nail on the head.
Old Dec 27, 2012, 08:48 AM
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Another thing is you don't want to over tighten the reed block.
Properly tuned, WOT choked, flips till she starts and dies. reduce throttle to an Idle and open the choke and flip. She should fire
Old Dec 31, 2012, 06:34 PM
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Alright, I flew Sunday and tried some things, made some observations. I still have not pulled the motor out, but here's what I noticed: I couldn't flip start it on the first start of the day, but after the first start it was fine. I could flip start the remainder of the day. I noticed that it had trouble returning to idle speed for a while, but that seemed to smooth out after a while. It seems to want to dead stick on me after about 4 or 5 flights.

I'm still planning to pull the carb and check the reeds and gasket, but I'm going to wait until I get a new gasket before I do that.

Thanks!

Ben
Old Jan 01, 2013, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ognolman View Post
Alright, I flew Sunday and tried some things, made some observations. I still have not pulled the motor out, but here's what I noticed: I couldn't flip start it on the first start of the day, but after the first start it was fine. I could flip start the remainder of the day. I noticed that it had trouble returning to idle speed for a while, but that seemed to smooth out after a while. It seems to want to dead stick on me after about 4 or 5 flights.

I'm still planning to pull the carb and check the reeds and gasket, but I'm going to wait until I get a new gasket before I do that.

Thanks!

Ben
that engine and all dle's should flip start with no problem...i have a dozen various dles of all sizes...never a problem.... broken in or not..it should start easy.. pull the carb and check the round screen for junk in there..... also, check your low end needle.
Old Jan 01, 2013, 10:48 AM
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Agreed on the LS needle. Dead sticks and hard to start issues can both be attributed to that needle being a little lean....
Old Jan 01, 2013, 02:18 PM
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you are way to lean on your low speed needle. my dle 30 hand starts with ease. never dies
Old Jan 04, 2013, 12:16 PM
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I'll check the low speed needle tomorrow. And I should have everything to pull the carb and check it out, along with the reeds, by tomorrow, so I'll probably get a chance to work on that this weekend.
Old Jan 05, 2013, 09:47 AM
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I pulled my NIB DLE 30 down last weekend
I found the cylinder finish was pretty half arsed
All machined surfaces need to be gone over with a flat stone
Spend some time in the reed blocks the sealing surfaces need attention and trek the time to make sure the reeds lay flat
I used 515 loctite on all gaskets for reassembly
It will give a 100% seal
We use this in sled engines for years good stuff and not cheap the down side is it will destroy gaskets if you tear down later
I haven't ran it yet as I need to drill a prop
Old Jan 07, 2013, 09:16 AM
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Well my gaskets and stuff didn't show up, but I did try richening the low speed by about 1/4 turn and it didn't fix the flip starting issue, although I did like the idle better. I didn't get a chance to work on this as much as I had hoped-- I had an EG Extra 300 50cc that I was trying to maiden and it was giving me all kinds of problems with bad servos. I've got a day off tomorrow, so I should be able to devote some time to it.


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