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Dec 21, 2012, 09:29 PM
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old4570's Avatar
Thread OP

Much Maligned HK450 - My Turn

My HK450 Kit is here , its job is to replace my first 450 kit which has had a hard life , so in 2013 it gets retired .. And the HK 450 is the replacement .

Now lets malign the kit :

Tail : Went together easy enough , but . Tail rotor control rod was too long , as are the tail boom braces - too long . This begs the question! , does anyone at HK actually go to the trouble of assembling a kit ? to make certain they dont send out 500 kits that need parts replacement ? I ask because it's just common sense . [ or used to be ]

See anything else in the pictures , look at the tail rotor blades , yeah , come awfully close to the tail fin , in fact about 2.5mm close [ two and a half millimeter ]

This is because the tail braces are toooooo loooooong ! and if some one at HK had bothered to check , it could have been fixed

Other than that [ SO FAR ] , I have changed the tail rotor control rod already and am about to swap the tail braces out , but come on HK ! These are like no brainers to get right !

Im moving relatively slowly with this one as I want to examine it as closely as possible ..

Its not all bad bye the way . The alloy body is very nice , frame has hex head screws , OK but why does the head and tail use Phillips head screws ?

The rotor blades are not the ones in the picture , in stead they are the cheap nasty plastic blades they have started selling , please HK , dont put these blades in the kit . Spend the money on hex head screws ..

The canopy is , not that good , too soft in places , not a deal breaker but Ive got $3 canopies that are fully painted and better quality . Leave out the canopy and use hex head screws in the head and tail .

So haven't checked the head or tail as yet , will do before Christmas .

Leave out the plastic blades , leave out the canopy , improve the basic kit . use 100% hex head screws ... [ You can do it ]

So some small issues so far , and I will update this

I just had lunch and its time for a break ... I hope to have gone through the kit by Christmas - Thats the plan !
Last edited by old4570; Dec 21, 2012 at 09:40 PM.
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Dec 22, 2012, 12:24 AM
Rocket Programmer
jasmine2501's Avatar
Cool I didn't know they still made that kit. It's basically a Trex 450 SA clone, which is a decent bird if a bit heavy. Here's my buddy flying it back when it first came out. It's a bit cheaper now...

Dave's HK450 (9 min 32 sec)
Dec 23, 2012, 11:56 PM
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old4570's Avatar
Thread OP

The tail

Well , examining the tail , the controls are nice and slop free , the tail rotor shaft has a small amount of play , and some of the screws were not overly tight , and certainly no thread lock to be seen .

I thread locked the screws , and set up the tail slider so as not to bind , as well as balancing my tail rotor blades .

The tail is as well set up as I can make it without rebuilding the tail rotor assembly ...

Next I move onto the head ...

Ps . Pictured with tail braces shortened , and tail fully set up .. Lots of blade clearance now ..
Dec 25, 2012, 01:47 AM
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old4570's Avatar
Thread OP

The Head

Well I pulled the head apart , and looks to be nicely thread locked ..

The only part of the head not thread locked was the flybar control arm assembly , which I thread locked . The screws are really small , and should they come lose it would not take much for them to become projectiles .

There was very little play in the head , and over all , a very nice fitting head , and so far nothing to complain about . Overall a impressive showing .

If this is an average HK450 kit , then

Next ill go through the frame screw by screw !
Dec 25, 2012, 07:36 AM
Fly, crash, rebuild, repeat
Sounds like your experience is right on par with mine, right down to the tail boom braces that were too long.

The other problem I had, is that there is slop where the main rotor head mates with the rotor shaft, and no matter how tight I tighten that bolt, it always wiggles.this basically allows the rotor to cock sideways and cause imbalance. My main shaft was also bent right out of the get spares and check them.

Otherwise, after sorting those issues (they are cheap to fix) mine flew great. I think most people would be surprised at how well it worked for $30. It's no precision machine, but it will sport-fly and do mild 3d/inverted stuff just fine.
Dec 25, 2012, 07:44 AM
Registered User
mmracecars's Avatar
what 'd you expect for 30 dollars
Dec 25, 2012, 08:47 AM
Just thumbing through...
victapilot's Avatar
For a few dollars more, this version has more alloy parts.
Dec 25, 2012, 04:15 PM
Registered User
The most important way I judge a heli, is how slop free it is after 100 flights preferably, or even just 50.

I found all the inexpensive clone helis I have built (those with plastic or aluminum parts), though slop free after build, all developed more slop in their control system then I liked, after as little as 15 flights and none where acceptable after 50 flights, even of just soft aerobatics.

So I will be looking forward to the report on this after about 50 flights.
Dec 25, 2012, 06:23 PM
Fly, crash, rebuild, repeat
If only i could go 50 flight without crashing, I'd let you know.

I've easily got 50 flights on mine, but that has included 2 tail assemblies, and several main rotor rebuilds replacing various parts. Mine never seem to last long enough to wear out
Dec 25, 2012, 06:57 PM
Registered User
mmracecars's Avatar
maybe one day ill hit 50 in a row,more like 5-15
Dec 26, 2012, 02:35 PM
If I build it, it will fly
For rotor head - shaft slop: pinch the slotted legs of the head block together a bit (closer together by say 0.5mm). Then slip it back onto the shaft & install Jesus bolt.

Dec 26, 2012, 02:40 PM
Registered User
I take it the bolt for the mixing arms doesn't pinch it together?
Dec 26, 2012, 03:38 PM
If I build it, it will fly
The problem Chubb was having is all in the head block-to-main shaft connection.

The bolt for the mixing arms is just off center. The slide for the mixing arms doesn't have a compression slot in it. The mixing arms slide up/down between the head block & swash plate.

Dec 26, 2012, 03:45 PM
Registered User
Last edited by Cyclick; Dec 26, 2012 at 09:06 PM.
Dec 26, 2012, 03:47 PM
Registered User
Originally Posted by psguardian
The problem Chubb was having is all in the head block-to-main shaft connection.

The bolt for the mixing arms is just off center. The slide for the mixing arms doesn't have a compression slot in it. The mixing arms slide up/down between the head block & swash plate.

All indications of poor quality in the parts manufacture and in a poor design in not having a compression slot.

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