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Old Jan 08, 2013, 02:43 PM
stonecutter is offline
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Sir Crashalot
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Originally Posted by variantman View Post
1/100th of a penny of material probably would of saved me. I was getting too cocky with that upside down flip thing. Those MP props set up pretty high on the motor pin. Beware.

MO, you should sell those slices of capri straws 10 for a dollar or something. Easy money.

I do all the damage to my quads flying in my house. I almost wish I had carpet now.
Don't give him any crazy ideas, lazy dudes like myself might just go for that.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 03:55 PM
John_Edward is offline
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Engineering.
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Could someone crack open one of the controllers and check if there is a separate transmitter board, and compare the layout of the main PCB to other WLtoys transmitters ? Preferably taking a few high res photos too.

I have a feeling that most of these radios use the same protocol to talk to these TX modules, and if we could get one of them to work with a 9X, we could get all of them.
I've had no luck yet, but I should get access to an oscilloscope later this week so I'm going to have a go with the Vitality H36 one.
Old Jan 08, 2013, 04:03 PM
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Sir Crashalot
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Originally Posted by John_Edward View Post
Could someone crack open one of the controllers and check if there is a separate transmitter board, and compare the layout of the main PCB to other WLtoys transmitters ? Preferably taking a few high res photos too.

I have a feeling that most of these radios use the same protocol to talk to these TX modules, and if we could get one of them to work with a 9X, we could get all of them.
I've had no luck yet, but I should get access to an oscilloscope later this week so I'm going to have a go with the Vitality H36 one.
The H36 we know already is 9x compatible, it's the v202 that isn't.
Old Jan 08, 2013, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by stonecutter View Post
The H36 we know already is 9x compatible, it's the v202 that isn't.
I know.
But if I get the TX module from the H36 radio (which I own) to work with my 9X, then I should get any other module to work as well.
Old Jan 08, 2013, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by variantman View Post
I did push the bottom back up. Still doesn't work.

I just looked and I don't think MO sells complete motor arms. Oh noesssss. Soldering.
Unfortunately the only thing the motor plugs are good for on the V939\V202 are for replacing the RX board. You have to solder to swap out the motors due to the thin channel for the wires.

Quote:
Originally Posted by variantman View Post
1/100th of a penny of material probably would of saved me. I was getting too cocky with that upside down flip thing. Those MP props set up pretty high on the motor pin. Beware.

MO, you should sell those slices of capri straws 10 for a dollar or something. Easy money.

I do all the damage to my quads flying in my house. I almost wish I had carpet now.
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Originally Posted by stonecutter View Post
Don't give him any crazy ideas, lazy dudes like myself might just go for that.
http://www.massiverc.com/PrestaShop/...ard-stock.html
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by John_Edward View Post
I know.
But if I get the TX module from the H36 radio (which I own) to work with my 9X, then I should get any other module to work as well.
Left is V202, Right (background) is V939 and the H36 uses the exact same TX module:

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Old Jan 08, 2013, 05:20 PM
Stevez1kart is offline
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Trees are bad
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Now that's funny! BTW for that price you need to cut them up for me.
Old Jan 08, 2013, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by MassiveOverkill View Post
Left is V202, Right (background) is V939 and the H36 uses the exact same TX module:

I see that the 4 first pins are 3.3V, SI, SCLN and SO, but what after that ?
Are the 4 pins after that all GND, and then the last one is CSN ?
Old Jan 08, 2013, 06:12 PM
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I wonder if one of the motors on my U816 would work? I'd still want to order a replacement for the Udi though. That and some more MP props and those rubber feet for the X4.

I'll probably skip MO's prop guards. A bit pricey.
Old Jan 08, 2013, 06:19 PM
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Your UDI motor should work Variant. We'll hopefully have the rubber feet in on Friday.

I updated the original Prop Motor Guard post, but if you want to make a bunch of these and have consistent size:

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Old Jan 08, 2013, 06:39 PM
Stevez1kart is offline
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Trees are bad
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I had to google Warts Gniknird, still laughing.
Old Jan 08, 2013, 07:03 PM
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MO, where's the best place to cut the wires to the old motor? It looks like it will be a pain fitting in soldered wires near the bottom with that cap.

I'm going to have to invest in a good Magnifying lamp. My eyes aren't what they used to be and my house lighting is terrible.
Old Jan 08, 2013, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by variantman View Post
MO, where's the best place to cut the wires to the old motor? It looks like it will be a pain fitting in soldered wires near the bottom with that cap.

I'm going to have to invest in a good Magnifying lamp. My eyes aren't what they used to be and my house lighting is terrible.
Hey bud,

You'll see that they soldered on the plugs to the end of the motor leads, which is covered by heat shrink. Peel the heat shrink back and cut at the solder joint.

Don't pull the old motor wires out. Cut them at the can and use one of the old wires to pull the two new motor leads through (may have to initially solder the ends as tape will take up too much space). Once they're through the boom, solder back on the motor plug.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 07:56 PM
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Ok, thanks. I'll try it tomorrow when a get a mag lite. Seems like it's a must for this hobby.
Old Jan 08, 2013, 08:36 PM
jesolins is offline
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Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
V,
Yep. Soldering requirements at "this life's stage": Bright light. Higher power readers. Magnifying lens hood. Magnifying jewelers glasses.

And also a good night's sleep and no morning coffee
Cheers,
Jim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by variantman View Post
Ok, thanks. I'll try it tomorrow when a get a mag lite. Seems like it's a must for this hobby.


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