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Dec 23, 2012, 12:21 PM
space1

y


Quote:
Originally Posted by RogueAce
I fixed my typos on last post...I have 3 -11.1V 2200mah 3s batteries , and I will be making a parallel "Y" connector.
you don't need Y con. with 3 batteries
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Dec 23, 2012, 12:27 PM
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Thought that the Y would make easier to connect and disconnect. Doesn't increase power or overheat system.
Dec 23, 2012, 01:55 PM
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I see where you are right Space1. I just need to mark which connection is the one w/the BEC. That one has to be connected first at all times to have control. So now I am starting the soldering of the motor connectors, then on to the Deans for the battery side. After that I'll make the leads for the ESC sides.
Dec 23, 2012, 03:16 PM
space1
you still need Y con for ESC'S to recever
Dec 23, 2012, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by space 1
you don't need Y con. with 3 batteries
of course you do. how else you gonna connect them? so, I guess instead of a Y, it would be more of a W. a parallel W.
Dec 23, 2012, 03:56 PM
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are you running three ESC's? if so, you would be crazy to put one pack per ESC. you are just asking for trouble that way. the pros don't hook up a multi that way and neither should you. you are always better to parallel packs together, then run the ESC's parallel to the single feed from multi packs. I might even be tempted to run a triple in another way.......................

I'm assuming of course that each powertrain will be running off 11.1 Volts. I might run one of them off a single pack, then run the other two off a Y'd, parallel setup. this way, if the single goes down, I've got two left to drive the plane.

if I run three packs in parallel, then run the ESC's in parallel from a single feed, the likelihood of any of them going down is slim to none.

if you run each as a single entity and you lose one, you would be ok, but if you lose two, you might be screwed. if you run three in parallel and one or two packs goes down, you still have a third to drive ALL three systems and you land ASAP.

Rich
Dec 23, 2012, 05:06 PM
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Space1...actually had to use 2 "Y"s for ESC to RX.Rich...Yes all 3 will be 11.1v. Right now I have them seperate, but was originally going to make the "W" and parallel the Batteries and ESCs as well. I have already soldered the Deans on the ESCs,but I can always change them or make a "W" for them. I also thought that the parallel way was the best way to check the system through a watt meter. Otherwise your adding #s that may NOT be true. I'd rather see what whole system is pulling. Thanx Rich...I thought I was right.
Dec 23, 2012, 08:31 PM
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you'll be good to go if you parallel those packs and the ESC's. your fail safe is that if all of them go down, which is statistically impossible, then the whole system goes down and you become a glider. since that's not possible, you'll always have power AND you won't have to worry about assymetric thrust problems.
Dec 23, 2012, 10:10 PM
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Made the "W" for batteries. Will post pics tomorrow of process and helpful trick I pulled to make easier to fit 3 wires on 1 post. Will make the ESC "W" tomorrow.
Dec 23, 2012, 10:27 PM
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man, you work quick. LOL.
Dec 24, 2012, 08:24 AM
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Thanx Rich......LOL...I thought it took forever!!
Dec 24, 2012, 10:15 AM
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Ok..so here is how I made my "W" s for the batteries and the ESCs. You need 5 Deans clips for each "W"....2 of which are female Deans that you take the tabs out of to get you 4 attachment tabs. (make sure you lay out scheme first to make sure that you have correct connectors going to each other. Mine ended up being 3 female and 1 male on ESCs and opposite on Batt..3 male 1 female.)I cut and tinned my wires and tinned all Deans clips...including scavenged tabs. (make sure to put shrink tube over wires before putting on Deans, and make sure its large enough to go over 3 wires and tab) Now I soldered the 3 red wires to a scavenged tab and then just solder tab to tab on Deans .Repeat same for black wires...then it is just soldering a red and black wire to remaining Deans clips. And here they are.
Last edited by RogueAce; Dec 24, 2012 at 10:25 AM.
Dec 24, 2012, 11:13 AM
space1
you lost me if one cell goes it draw's from other if one motor goes same thing. think you got nightmare there. 3 motor's 3 batteries one for each very simple
Dec 24, 2012, 12:06 PM
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The way I have it set up I can, if needed, just remove "W"s and go to single set up. Worked very well on first test today w/just 2 batts connected. After I make the mounts I will hook up the watt meter and go full pull on system.
Dec 24, 2012, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by space 1
you lost me if one cell goes it draw's from other if one motor goes same thing. think you got nightmare there. 3 motor's 3 batteries one for each very simple
it's not a nightmare Space, it's the proper way to do it. if they are all paralleled, it's as though there's only one battery feeding the whole system. think of it like a gas tank, but in Voltage terms. if you have them all separate and lets assume they are all 2200 mAh packs. you've got only so much gas in your tank. but now if we parallel them all together, you triple the gas in your tank into a single feed. plus, if one pack goes for a crap, you still have the other two to deliver the same Voltage, at double the capacity, instead of single capacity. plus, the benefit is that you've still got all three fans driving the plane. the way you are suggesting it done, if one goes down, you are down to two fans. if two go down, you've got one fan. if you parallel them, you have all three driving no matter what. granted, it's more work, but well worth it.


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