450 Size MD500 "How To" Step by Step Build Manual / Review - RC Groups
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Dec 16, 2012, 10:43 PM
Chris Reibert #78
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450 Size MD500 "How To" Step by Step Build Manual / Review

Build Manual / Review: Chaos 450 Pro MD500 G-JIVE Fuselage Build

Written by: Chris Reibert
Manufacturer: RC Aerodyne
Available From: www.scaleflying.com
Price: $79.95

Opening the Box

Opening the box you find everything well packed in plastic wrap and the small parts in their own marked individual baggies. Upon un wrapping the fuselage you are greeted by the most vibrant airbrushed colors. The fiberglass was flawless and smooth with zero cracks or blemishes. This bird is really going to stand out when it is buzzing around the blue skies and green grass at the flying field.

Let the Build Begin

Mechanics chosen for the scale build include:
• Chaos 450 Pro Super Combo from RC Aerodyne
• Cyclic Servos: DS410MG style” servos
• Tail Servo: “DS520 style” digital tail servo
• Gyro: Spartan Quark
• Motor: Phoenixtech (Scorpion 2221-6 4400KV)
• ESC: 45amp Phoenixtech
• Battery: Turnigy 20-30c 3s 2200mAh 11.1v Pack
• Receiver: Spektrum AR6100

Prepping the Mechanics

Once you have your 450 Pro built and have test flown it a few times it is time to prep the helicopter to fit into the scale fuselage. The parts you will no longer need any more include the main skids, boom supports, and horizontal and vertical fin set. Once you removed those parts you will need to temporally remove the rear torque tube gear box. I also recommend removing the main blades so they are not in your way during the installation portion of the build. Once everything is removed it should look like this and you are now ready to start the build.

Step 1: Mounting the skids

The first step is going to be installing the skid risers into the body of the fuselage. Make sure you have the correct down pieces in the correct order. You want the ones with the higher front foot steps to go in the front of the fuselage. Once you have done that you can test fit them into the wood plate inside the fuselage and insert the pipes into them. Once test fitting was been done and everything looks good add some 30min epoxy on the skids and inside the frame on the floor of the plate where the skids will go into. Once everything is true and straight put a battery inside to add some weight so that the glue can set up everything stays straight during the drying process. Once the glue has dried you will need to use sand paper or a dremel to take off access plastic sticking through the floor plate. If you do not sand them down the riser blocks will not sit flat on the deck.

Step 2: Building the riser blocks

Now it is time to figure out how many laminate pieces of wood we will need to use to get the proper height so that the tail boom centers inside the fuselage and the control linkage can still move freely. For the 450 Pro to fit properly I found I had to use a total of seven laminate stand offs. Once you have found how many pieces of laminate wood you will need to get the mechanics to fit level inside the fuselage it is time to put the finishing touches on the standoffs. I like to use wood glue between each layer as well as completely coat the outside and wrap it in some strips of dryer sheet making in near impossible to vibrate loose during flight. After the initial test flight I went back through and applied epoxy a second time and wrapped string vertically around the blocks. Once the pieces have set up and completely dried you need to drill a hole and install the screws that mount the risers to the 450 Pro airframe.

Step 3: Test fitting the mechanics

Now it is time to test fit the mechanics inside the fuselage. Slide the mechanics all the way in until the anti rotation bracket hits the rear top of the fuselage. Do to the fact that it is a 450 Pro the anti rotation bracket stops the helicopter from going back far enough to expose the torque tube mounting hole in the rear of the boom. You will need to grind enough of the fuselage away until the hole is clear out of the rear of the fuselage. Now it is time to level and measure and make sure the helicopter is straight inside the fuselage. *This part is very important guys* Make sure the mechanics are level inside the fuselage, you have equal spacing from left to right, and the tail boom is centered down the fuselage. Once you have accomplished this take a marker with a long tip and mark the holes on the floor of the fuselage where your mounting screws will go into.

Step 4: Installing the mechanics

Once you have marked the holes double check one last time that the mechanics are straight and you can install the four included screws and secure the mechanics down to the floor. To install the rear two screws you will need a long screw driver and you will have to go through the top window ports. I recommend getting a magnetic tip screwdriver or this is near impossible. I used bigger thicker screws in the rear and in the front I used the included screw and nuts. For added security you can use a long piece of Velcro and run it through the frame of the helicopter and around the fuselage floor ensure if the bocks ever come loose during flight do to vibration the frame and fuselage do not separate.

Step 5: Installing the rear TT and vertical fin

Now we move onto the rear of the fuselage. Install the foam guide that just firmly pushes in inside the rear of the fuselage to keep the servo pushrod and boom true and straight. Once that is installed it is time to install the rear torque tube assembly. This is where you are going to have to make some slight modifications. The mounting screws that are included are made for a 450 sport design where the screws just hold on the vertical fin. On the 450 Pro the two rear screws don’t just hold on the vertical fin, they mount the fin, guide, and locks the rear torque tube assembly to the boom. These are the only extra parts you will need to buy complete this build. You will need to buy two M2x25 screws and two swash plate balls to use as standoffs. IF YOU ARE CONSIDERING THIS BUILD WITH A 450 PRO GET HOLD OF ME. I HAVE A TON OF THESE M2x25 SCREWS. Once you have made the stand offs and attached the vertical fin to torque tube assembly snap on the ball link to the pitch slider. Glue the horizontal wing and two vertical end cap fins together.

Step 6: Test Mechanics

It is now time to re-install the main blades and complete a test hover with the mechanics installed. If using your original 2200mAh pack you will notice you will need to add forward trim and position you battery lower on the battery tray. It is beast recommended to use a 3000mAh for added flight time and balance the helicopter out better. Once you are confident everything tests out fine it is time to move into the finishing stages.

Step 7: Final Details Windows / Decals / Paint

You do not have to take out the mechanics to install the side windows but it makes it much easier. I like to use hot glue to install the windows because it is not permanent and if needed you can just peel the windows right out. I decided to tint my windows because I did not want to see the 450’s mechanics inside. *RC Aerodyne’s bigger fuselages offer full real life scale cockpits as well as mechanic relocation frames to give your big scale build a realistic True to Life look* Once your side windows are installed simply line up the front canopy nose and let it magnetic click itself onto the fuselage. I do not install the top most windows do to wanting the battery and ESC to vent as well as that is my access to the rear mounting screws on the risers.

That Completes the Basic 450 Pro G-JIVE Scale Build

There are a number of different things you can add to this kit to make it even more realistic. This is where your creativity can be endless. My plans for the future of this helicopter include a full 4-5 blade scale head as well as a full working navigation lighting system.

Flight Review

Time for the first real flight with the new fuselage installed. At the first spool up I got goose bumps just looking at the scale helicopter build its head speed. I could just imagine what she would look and sound like with a 4-5 blade scale head installed. I found the fuselage to be a little bit tail heavy, simple way to remedy that is using a longer 3000mAh 3s battery pack to equal out the weight. You never want to add weight to the front of the canopy or put added stress and weigh on the magnets. It flies different and heavier than the pod and boom 450 Pro but it still had quick response and performed very well. If you fly it slow and smooth it looks like the real G-JIVE buzzing around the field. Very stable in a hover and being that it has a Chaos 450 Pro inside the cyclic controls are dead on and the helicopter tracks beautifully. It will loop and roll abut I don’t recommend doing 3D with a scale build nor will I stress my beautiful fuselage. Even in a 30mph wind in the video of my first flight it held its own.

Build Review

The build was quite enjoyable and very easy, to the point that I didn't need the manual to do it (although beginners may well need it) and the high quality of the fiberglass parts and paint stand right out. The fuselage is very spacious for a 450 size build and gives you plenty of room to add a lighting system and a bigger flight battery pack. This fuselage kit is great build for an amateur looking to get into a first scale helicopter. With the very little modifications to fit a 450 Pro inside you can have this fuselage built and flying in a weekend. I have been impressed with the overall quality of the fuselage kit and had no problems with any of the parts fitting together. If you have very any questions about the build or parts you can contact Rob at RCA and he will set you up with anything you need to get your first scale build off the ground. I also attached my E-mail as well if you have any questions or need the M2x25 Screws for the 450 Pro.

Comparison of the G-jive 450 fuselage compared to Aligns MD500
So how does the G-JIVE compare to Align’s MD500 fuselage I’ve previously built? Well just look at it… Which fuselage would you choose? Align’s basic 3 color design or the Vibrant G-JIVE color scheme. The build was very similar and I had an enjoyable time putting it together. Quality was similar yet the RCA fuselage came with a better manual and more parts and hardware. Also RCA’s prices and better and customer service is bare none.


For $79.95 this scale MD500 fuselage kit is a big home run in my book. From the easy to read instructions and excellent build quality on this helicopter it will turn any boring 450 pod and boom helicopter into an impressive eye popping, head turning scale helicopter. I hope to get this fuselage out to many fun flys alongside my bigger RCA 3D helicopters. With the sticker price being under a $80 for a full fiberglass fuselage with mounting hard ware makes it hard to pass up. The RC Aerodyne G-JIVE 450 size fuselage comes in the red and blue painted color scheme and can be purchased at www.scaleflying.com. They also offer an enormous inventory of scale fuselages ranging from 250-800 sized birds. They have everything to feed your scale needs.

Blue G-Jive 450 Fuselage
For an added scale touch install a 4 or 5 blade head and navigation lights




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