Originally Posted by Isoprop

I don't have this camera, but I don't believe there's any way you can determine which firmware version is installed. The only 808 that I'm aware of which shows everything is the #16. This is the most advanced and mature 808 available and is also the only 720p 808 which supports USB communication. It is fully plug-and-play (Android, Linux and Windows) so there's no need for an intermediate file. Most other cameras rely on a one-direction file for setting the parameters and are not very user friendly.

I would advise against using AA or AAA battery packs. I have had bad experience with this method although it can work. The problem is that you must have 5V ±5%. A much better solution is to use a dedicated USB power pack.

I have posted information about power supplies (external batteries) for the #11, #16 and the Mobius. The power supply information also applies to the #20. Click here for the #16 post (only the bottom part is relevant).

Hi. I meant that most firmwares files are named something like FW808-1.0 and then FW808-1.1 or in the Properties on the computer it has something in Details tab. Its weird there is no such on the file itself.

I am confused about the external power supplies in your article but this might make it a bit clearer for me...the USB battery powered chargers are being used for purpose (charging the internal battery) and not in some way powering the 808 directly without its own internal battery? If its charging the internal battery when the 808 is in use does this have a bad effect on the internal batteries life do you know? Or maybe if the internal battery is fully charged and an external source is available it take its own battery out of the equation to preserve it.
And would this be suitable as an external supplier of power (to the internal battery or the camera directly) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ace-Blackb...item19de6121b9

Sorry I'm clueless

Originally Posted by Isoprop

I don't know the y3000, but if the battery runs out on the #16 the last clip is automatically saved. I've never had any problem with this.

I also can't imagine that any camera in this price class would save a recording up to the last seconds if you pulled the battery or removed the card while recording. But, like I said, I don't have y3000.

Anyway, this is completely off-topic in the #20 thread.

I thought only Tom Frank is so much worrying about on/off topic. saving data is important for any camera but can't find specific thread about that. I discussed that on #16 thread and Tom Frank said something like if you operate the camera in wrong way than it's your problem.
interesting to hear that you didn't have problem with that as many people had, when they crash they loose the most important footage: just 0 sized files. I had crashes with y3000 and had some fragments with errors that I could still use after converting. I write about this here hoping that some owner of #20 can share experience with data loss

Originally Posted by Return2Flight

It's my understanding from BestDVR (I have mailed him many times in the past few months...) that they are stopping with the #20 at least for now in lie of the new product testing.

In regards to the 2 min recording. There is a "driving mode" that does just that, records in 2-minute intervals. That would be the mode with LED 3 & 4 flashing.
I use this for flight recording so if I don't want all the time recorded I just use the segments of interest. The camera works well for me. I have 2 and now glad that I bought them. On the other hand if I had the #16, it would probably work with the android app that allows you to set the variables from your device such as color balance, exposure, etc. There's a whole list of what can be set via an external device and none of this upgrading - downloading b'nus. I'm not sure my particular phone works with the OTG (on the go) cable so that and being told by JC (bestDVR) that the camera is on hold right now.... I let it all drop. Maybe some day I will pick up a #16 or somebody will have something else out by then.

Setting the minimal parameters such as time/date/exposure/sound level/pixels/ is pretty easy via the BESTDVR.txt file per the instructions, unless it is a defective unit is all I can think. Be sure to get the order exactly as printed on the little pamphlet.

R2F

You are right about the 2 minute recordings. Its in section 3.5 of the Manual http://w16.myzcm.com/2010/06/photofr...ESTDVR=eBay+ID
I was going to copy the text over but the pdf says (SECURED) in the title hence the link for snookershed. Look at how to set the EV to +1EV. That will brighten it up a fair bit.

Originally Posted by asanovrus

I thought only Tom Frank is so much worrying about on/off topic. saving data is important for any camera but can't find specific thread about that. I discussed that on #16 thread and Tom Frank said something like if you operate the camera in wrong way than it's your problem.
interesting to hear that you didn't have problem with that as many people had, when they crash they loose the most important footage: just 0 sized files. I had crashes with y3000 and had some fragments with errors that I could still use after converting. I write about this here hoping that some owner of #20 can share experience with data loss

Well, you thought wrong. This forum has threads with subjects for discussion in the thread title. It's not a blog where you ramble on about anything you like. So if there is no thread for your topic, start one!

I've also not had an issue with damaged files from a crash, but it might be because the camera was not writing to the card at the instant the card was abruptly jolted out of contact. If that happens during a file writing process, the file structure can be damaged. This a NOT something the camera can predict or even be expected to correct. And an AVI file format can sometimes be recovered more easily than a MOV file structure.

Bottom line, if you crash all bets are off. If you have a camera that is immune to all this, then use it, but don't expect every other camera to do the same or complain about if they don't.

Oops forgot to say the pdf user manual on Settings (Section 4) isn't that good as they often include spaces in their examples as if it doesn't matter. I found the setting were only 'accepted' if there were no spaces eg EV =+1 won't work while EV=+1 will (the former has a space between the V and the = while the latter does not).

Originally Posted by blobblobblob

Hi. I meant that most firmwares files are named something like FW808-1.0 and then FW808-1.1 or in the Properties on the computer it has something in Details tab. Its weird there is no such on the file itself.

I am confused about the external power supplies in your article but this might make it a bit clearer for me...the USB battery powered chargers are being used for purpose (charging the internal battery) and not in some way powering the 808 directly without its own internal battery? If its charging the internal battery when the 808 is in use does this have a bad effect on the internal batteries life do you know? Or maybe if the internal battery is fully charged and an external source is available it take its own battery out of the equation to preserve it.
And would this be suitable as an external supplier of power (to the internal battery or the camera directly) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ace-Blackb...item19de6121b9

Sorry I'm clueless

I can only speak for the firmware files (binaries) I know, and all those are not named as you stated. The zip (or rar) archives should normally be named differently with the version or date or both included in the archive name. That doesn't help if you extract the binaries.

Like I previously posted, I don't know the #20, so I don't know if it's possible to record at the same time as charging the battery, but I'm sure it is. You may, however need a special cable. I also don't know if you can power the #20 with external USB power with the battery removed. You can with the #16 but you can't with the #11/#18.

All this depends on the #20. If you can power the camera while recording, then this won't have any adverse effects on the internal battery, in fact, it may even be beneficial.

I would definitely advise against the battery charger you posted! It only has two AA cells so the voltage needs to be boosted and regulated to 5V. In my article I specifically advise against using AA/AAA cells, especially if there are less than 4.

As far as I'm concerned, it's a total waste of money.

Never even think about connecting something like this directly to the internal battery. The output is 5V, so you will very likely destroy your camera. Again, you'll find this in my article.

Reply to #156 directly above (to save page space no quote)

Hi I can confirm you can both charge and record at the same time with the #20 (specifically for the record I connected it to my laptop under the above circumstances). And the cable required isn't like most other cables I've seen camera end wise. I'd recommend anyone buying one get that cable included if its just a quid or something.

I read warnings about the AA / AAA cell options but then you included 4 portable options and the first was AA cells - this has got me confused. There must be something about that 4 AA cell set up that avoids your warning but what is it?

And maybe the same thing...In #156 you said "I would definitely advise against the battery charger you posted! It only has two AA cells so the voltage needs to be boosted and regulated to 5V." but what got me thinking that would be OK was this from the battery article "You cannot use a battery box with only 3 AAA / 3 AA batteries unless it incorporates step-up electronics to output 5V. 3 Batteries can only supply about 3.6V, but the camera requires a minimum of approx. 4.7V constant voltage. It will not charge or record when the voltage falls below approx. 4.3V." and "It is not a good idea to use 4 AA/AAA cells if you want to power the #16 directly without an internal battery, unless the output is regulated to 5V. Dedicated USB power packs or 5V converters designed to output 5V are the much better choice." So it sounded like it fitted the bill for 4.7-5V and unlikely to over supply based on just 2 cells (so I thought). As I said I'm clueless so must be missing something again as it sounded a spot on power supply Its probably something really fundamental.

And thanks for your time on this!

Originally Posted by blobblobblob

Reply to #156 directly above (to save page space no quote)

Hi I can confirm you can both charge and record at the same time with the #20 (specifically for the record I connected it to my laptop under the above circumstances). And the cable required isn't like most other cables I've seen camera end wise. I'd recommend anyone buying one get that cable included if its just a quid or something.

I read warnings about the AA / AAA cell options but then you included 4 portable options and the first was AA cells - this has got me confused. There must be something about that 4 AA cell set up that avoids your warning but what is it?

And maybe the same thing...In #156 you said "I would definitely advise against the battery charger you posted! It only has two AA cells so the voltage needs to be boosted and regulated to 5V." but what got me thinking that would be OK was this from the battery article "You cannot use a battery box with only 3 AAA / 3 AA batteries unless it incorporates step-up electronics to output 5V. 3 Batteries can only supply about 3.6V, but the camera requires a minimum of approx. 4.7V constant voltage. It will not charge or record when the voltage falls below approx. 4.3V." and "It is not a good idea to use 4 AA/AAA cells if you want to power the #16 directly without an internal battery, unless the output is regulated to 5V. Dedicated USB power packs or 5V converters designed to output 5V are the much better choice." So it sounded like it fitted the bill for 4.7-5V and unlikely to over supply based on just 2 cells (so I thought). As I said I'm clueless so must be missing something again as it sounded a spot on power supply Its probably something really fundamental.

And thanks for your time on this!

OK, to put it simply (hopefully ). As long as the voltage is 5V, everything will work. The question is if it's efficient or not! Getting 5V from 1, 2 or 3 AA cells is not efficient, which means you'll get 5V but barely increase your recording time because the battery(batteries) won't provide enough current for more than a few minutes and the voltage will drop.
4AA cells can be a problem. 4 x 1.2V = 4.8V (on the low side, but within specs.), 4 x 1.5V = 6V (way too high). Then diodes come into play... To keep it simple, I won't go into that.

With a dedicated USB battery pack you don't have any of these problems. You charge the unit and then use it. Also, the packs were specifically designed to be used for USB devices. I have had plenty of AA/AAA converters etc. but I don't use them because they are simply not reliable in the long run. I also find it much more convenient to charge a USB battery pack than it is to remove AA/AAA batteries in order to recharge them.

Paying more for a properly designed USB battery pack is well worth it in the long run, IMO.

Ahh, right I didn't realise the two AA batteries would only give minutes of recording time. Will look at USB battery packs.

btw generally I have found the #20 I have has lost a setting. Basically to increase battery life I set audio to zero in the BESTDVR.txt but have found sound on some recordings.

Originally Posted by blobblobblob

Ahh, right I didn't realise the two AA batteries would only give minutes of recording time. Will look at USB battery packs.

btw generally I have found the #20 I have has lost a setting. Basically to increase battery life I set audio to zero in the BESTDVR.txt but have found sound on some recordings.

Firmware always takes a few months to "ripen" so long the developer doesn't lose interest. Unfortunately, it appears the #20 developer never had any intention in continuing developing the firmware. Since the #20 is now most likely discontinued, I doubt if bugs will ever be corrected. Too bad.

Hi, I have this camera for a couple of month it worked fine,
today I plug it in my PC to transfer videos but it would not turn on.
Led lights dont turn on.
I touched the usb and it was very hot on touch, after only one minute it becomes very hot.
what could be a problem?
After that, I tried to record and camera records fine on sd card, I transfer video with card reader.
Now I cant refill camera battery.

Originally Posted by Acronis

Hi, I have this camera for a couple of month it worked fine,
today I plug it in my PC to transfer videos but it would not turn on.
Led lights dont turn on.
I touched the usb and it was very hot on touch, after only one minute it becomes very hot.
what could be a problem?
After that, I tried to record and camera records fine on sd card, I transfer video with card reader.
Now I cant refill camera battery.

The most likely reason is something is shorting either in your cable or USB plug or the USB socket. The only way to find out is to replace the cable. If that still doesn't solve the problem, then the USB socket is the problem and that can't be replaced without very good soldering skills. The short may also have damaged some electronic components.

I don't believe a schema for the USB cable has been published, so it would be difficult to make your own cable.

The 8-pin USB connectors used on the #20 are fragile and should always be connected/disconnected with caution. The connectors are non-standard and should never have been used in this camera.

Originally Posted by Isoprop

The most likely reason is something is shorting either in your cable or USB plug or the USB socket. The only way to find out is to replace the cable. If that still doesn't solve the problem, then the USB socket is the problem and that can't be replaced without very good soldering skills. The short may also have damaged some electronic components.

I don't believe a schema for the USB cable has been published, so it would be difficult to make your own cable.

The 8-pin USB connectors used on the #20 are fragile and should always be connected/disconnected with caution. The connectors are non-standard and should never have been used in this camera.

Thanks for answer, I tried with two different cables (they are different in lenght) and usb camera connector is hot after one minute or less, every time.
Do you know what caused this to happen? I havent done anything unussual.

Originally Posted by Acronis

Thanks for answer, I tried with two different cables (they are different in lenght) and usb camera connector is hot after one minute or less, every time.
Do you know what caused this to happen? I havent done anything unussual.

Since I don't have this camera, I can't check what components, if any, are located near to the USB socket. However, like I mentioned previously, it's very possible there's a short in the USB socket itself. Have you looked at the socket using a magnifying glass? Maybe you can see two contacts touching each other.

Since the camera works otherwise, I would think chances are pretty high that there's a mechanical fault rather than an electronic fault. If the regulating circuitry fails, it would normally be open circuit and not shorted. If you have the skills, you could check for shorts at the socket by first removing the internal battery and then using your multimeter with the continuity (beeper) or low resistance setting. It is best to make your own multimeter probes using a sewing needle at one end and a banana plug at the other.

Just connecting these 8-pin plugs in a hurry or at a slight angle can break them. It's happened to me a few times, and that's why I'm so allergic to these types of connectors. I have never had problems with the 5-pin mini USB connectors.

This connector is miniature indeed, I looked into it with small microscope and I saw 8 metal lines and they are not touching each other. That is what I can see from outside.

I made a photo of inside (attached), there is one piece that look suspicious to me as if it is damaged?, I made a red circle around.