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I am confused about the external power supplies in your article but this might make it a bit clearer for me...the USB battery powered chargers are being used for purpose (charging the internal battery) and not in some way powering the 808 directly without its own internal battery? If its charging the internal battery when the 808 is in use does this have a bad effect on the internal batteries life do you know? Or maybe if the internal battery is fully charged and an external source is available it take its own battery out of the equation to preserve it. And would this be suitable as an external supplier of power (to the internal battery or the camera directly) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ace-Blackb...item19de6121b9 Sorry I'm clueless |
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interesting to hear that you didn't have problem with that as many people had, when they crash they loose the most important footage: just 0 sized files. I had crashes with y3000 and had some fragments with errors that I could still use after converting. I write about this here hoping that some owner of #20 can share experience with data loss |
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I was going to copy the text over but the pdf says (SECURED) in the title hence the link for snookershed. Look at how to set the EV to +1EV. That will brighten it up a fair bit. |
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I've also not had an issue with damaged files from a crash, but it might be because the camera was not writing to the card at the instant the card was abruptly jolted out of contact. If that happens during a file writing process, the file structure can be damaged. This a NOT something the camera can predict or even be expected to correct. And an AVI file format can sometimes be recovered more easily than a MOV file structure. Bottom line, if you crash all bets are off. If you have a camera that is immune to all this, then use it, but don't expect every other camera to do the same or complain about if they don't. |
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Oops forgot to say the pdf user manual on Settings (Section 4) isn't that good as they often include spaces in their examples as if it doesn't matter. I found the setting were only 'accepted' if there were no spaces eg EV =+1 won't work while EV=+1 will (the former has a space between the V and the = while the latter does not).
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Like I previously posted, I don't know the #20, so I don't know if it's possible to record at the same time as charging the battery, but I'm sure it is. You may, however need a special cable. I also don't know if you can power the #20 with external USB power with the battery removed. You can with the #16 but you can't with the #11/#18. All this depends on the #20. If you can power the camera while recording, then this won't have any adverse effects on the internal battery, in fact, it may even be beneficial. I would definitely advise against the battery charger you posted! It only has two AA cells so the voltage needs to be boosted and regulated to 5V. In my article I specifically advise against using AA/AAA cells, especially if there are less than 4. As far as I'm concerned, it's a total waste of money. Never even think about connecting something like this directly to the internal battery. The output is 5V, so you will very likely destroy your camera. Again, you'll find this in my article. |
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Reply to #156 directly above (to save page space no quote)
Hi I can confirm you can both charge and record at the same time with the #20 (specifically for the record I connected it to my laptop under the above circumstances). And the cable required isn't like most other cables I've seen camera end wise. I'd recommend anyone buying one get that cable included if its just a quid or something. I read warnings about the AA / AAA cell options but then you included 4 portable options and the first was AA cells - this has got me confused. There must be something about that 4 AA cell set up that avoids your warning but what is it? And maybe the same thing...In #156 you said "I would definitely advise against the battery charger you posted! It only has two AA cells so the voltage needs to be boosted and regulated to 5V." but what got me thinking that would be OK was this from the battery article "You cannot use a battery box with only 3 AAA / 3 AA batteries unless it incorporates step-up electronics to output 5V. 3 Batteries can only supply about 3.6V, but the camera requires a minimum of approx. 4.7V constant voltage. It will not charge or record when the voltage falls below approx. 4.3V." and "It is not a good idea to use 4 AA/AAA cells if you want to power the #16 directly without an internal battery, unless the output is regulated to 5V. Dedicated USB power packs or 5V converters designed to output 5V are the much better choice." So it sounded like it fitted the bill for 4.7-5V and unlikely to over supply based on just 2 cells (so I thought). As I said I'm clueless so must be missing something again as it sounded a spot on power supply Its probably something really fundamental. And thanks for your time on this! |
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4AA cells can be a problem. 4 x 1.2V = 4.8V (on the low side, but within specs.), 4 x 1.5V = 6V (way too high). Then diodes come into play... To keep it simple, I won't go into that. With a dedicated USB battery pack you don't have any of these problems. You charge the unit and then use it. Also, the packs were specifically designed to be used for USB devices. I have had plenty of AA/AAA converters etc. but I don't use them because they are simply not reliable in the long run. I also find it much more convenient to charge a USB battery pack than it is to remove AA/AAA batteries in order to recharge them. Paying more for a properly designed USB battery pack is well worth it in the long run, IMO. |
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Ahh, right I didn't realise the two AA batteries would only give minutes of recording time. Will look at USB battery packs.
btw generally I have found the #20 I have has lost a setting. Basically to increase battery life I set audio to zero in the BESTDVR.txt but have found sound on some recordings. |
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808#20
Hi, I have this camera for a couple of month it worked fine,
today I plug it in my PC to transfer videos but it would not turn on. Led lights dont turn on. I touched the usb and it was very hot on touch, after only one minute it becomes very hot. what could be a problem? After that, I tried to record and camera records fine on sd card, I transfer video with card reader. Now I cant refill camera battery. |
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I don't believe a schema for the USB cable has been published, so it would be difficult to make your own cable. The 8-pin USB connectors used on the #20 are fragile and should always be connected/disconnected with caution. The connectors are non-standard and should never have been used in this camera. |
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Do you know what caused this to happen? I havent done anything unussual. |
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Since the camera works otherwise, I would think chances are pretty high that there's a mechanical fault rather than an electronic fault. If the regulating circuitry fails, it would normally be open circuit and not shorted. If you have the skills, you could check for shorts at the socket by first removing the internal battery and then using your multimeter with the continuity (beeper) or low resistance setting. It is best to make your own multimeter probes using a sewing needle at one end and a banana plug at the other. Just connecting these 8-pin plugs in a hurry or at a slight angle can break them. It's happened to me a few times, and that's why I'm so allergic to these types of connectors. I have never had problems with the 5-pin mini USB connectors. |
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This connector is miniature indeed, I looked into it with small microscope and I saw 8 metal lines and they are not touching each other. That is what I can see from outside.
I made a photo of inside (attached), there is one piece that look suspicious to me as if it is damaged?, I made a red circle around. |
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