Atomik Metal Mulisha MM450 set up and tips - Page 2 - RC Groups
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Dec 11, 2012, 11:19 AM
RC Dirt Bike Action
JohnnyMc's Avatar
On the vmx, inside where the steering stem sits, it comes right up to the inside of the frame so there is no space for the stem to move making those rubber grommets kind of pointless. I followed TopDave's advice long ago when he pointed this out and did some minor dremmeling to the frame and stem a little play for the grommets to be effective. I wonder if the mm450 frame changed to accomodate what Dave found?
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Dec 11, 2012, 02:22 PM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
TopDave's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyMc
On the vmx, inside where the steering stem sits, it comes right up to the inside of the frame so there is no space for the stem to move making those rubber grommets kind of pointless. I followed TopDave's advice long ago when he pointed this out and did some minor dremmeling to the frame and stem a little play for the grommets to be effective. I wonder if the mm450 frame changed to accomodate what Dave found?
Yeah Johnny, I was amazed that there was no comment from Chris N/Venom about that issue. Believe it or not, that was the first thing I checked when I opened my new MM450, lol. Since that mod I have tons of crashes and endo's on the VMX without breaking that part again! (not that it's not possible to break ) . They must have designed clearance there because my Deegan bike steering bracket does float on the grommets. I still like the idea of the third mounting screw too.
Dec 11, 2012, 02:50 PM
RC Dirt Bike Action
JohnnyMc's Avatar
I had a feeling you would have checked it out haha. Its good to know the new bikes got your 'find' as part of the design now.
Dec 12, 2012, 08:09 AM
Registered User
Here's a driving tip I have learnt with the MM.
On slippery dirt you need to change you style of driving to when the grip is available. It's more so the front end that you have to worry about losing than the rear as with the gyro that will never really happen. When exiting a slow corner instead of trying to stand the bike up by using opposite lock you need to keep the steering mainly straight ahead and use the throttle to stand the bike up. The problem is worse when there is like a chicane or a corner opposite to the last one quite soon as you tend to start to try and steer the bike into the next corner before its stood up fully. The trick is to wait until the bike is almost stood up and then back off for an instant you can even dab the brake and start your next turn and power on. Be smooth with the throttle and try not to lift the front until again almost stood up as if you put the front wheel down while leant over too much it will wash or cause some wobble as it try's to grip when it comes down at the least. The bike handles really well on the dry dusty dirt you just need to be smooth and have a little more patience with the bike.
Dec 12, 2012, 09:04 PM
Registered User
The optional front brake makes a difference in handling by not only giving better braking but it also settles the rear end under braking allowing better control entering corners. I use the standard front brake caliper and disk, only replacing the pads with 1/8 buggy pads when they wear out. You can use the std brake cable until it breaks then I upgrade to push bike cable using an antenna from a buggy as an outer cable. Remove the adjusters from the caliper and the servo end and drill the hole in the red caliper brake actuator slightly bigger. For stoppers I use throttle brake linkage ones again from a buggy. I use the hole closest to the servo centre for more leverage and more power in the brakes. Plus its easier on the servo. I use the std brake servo and dail in as much or as little brake as I want with the brake mix percentage. If you happen to bend the disk remove and sandwich between two thick flat pieces of fairly hard wood give it a few clouts firmly with a large hammer until the disk looks good.
To set up the brakes leave the servo horn off to start. Set up the cable as per instructions. Turn on the radio and bike ( disconnect one gyro ESC wire to stop the gyro spinning up ) turn on the aux channel switch on top of the radio. Go into the brake mix ( no 11 in the menu ) and turn it on and set this to 110 to start. Go into the EPA settings and set channel 3 high end to 120% and the low end to 0%. Fit the servo horn getting rid of as much free play in the cable as possible without causing any binding of the brake. Spin the front wheel and then adjust up the low end until the pads just rub and back off until the wheel moves free. Use this low end EPA adjustment to keep the pads close to the disk. As they wear adjust this until you run out of adjustment then return the setting to zero and either adjust the cable or the servo horn position. Check and make sure the pads are still ok. Final setting of brake strength is done with the brake mix %. The higher the % the greater the strenght of front brake. Try not to use over 110% with the std servo. Just a tip for slippery dirt you don't want either the front or the rear brakes to completely lock as this only causes the bike to get out of control. I also back the rear brake off slightly to reduce locking on the slippery stuff. I set my EPA at 95%.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...ach&p=23513281
Last edited by chktm; Dec 27, 2012 at 08:58 PM.
Dec 13, 2012, 05:09 AM
Member #1
Teamsherman's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by chktm
The optional front brake makes a difference in handling by not only giving better braking but it also settles the rear end under braking allowing better control entering corners. I use the standard front brake caliper and disk, only replacing the pads with 1/8 buggy pads when they wear out. You can use the std brake cable until it breaks then I upgrade to push bike cable using an antenna from a buggy as an outer cable. Remove the adjusters from the caliper and the servo end and drill the hole in the red caliper brake actuator slightly bigger. For stoppers I use throttle brake linkage ones again from a buggy. I use the hole closest to the servo centre for more leverage and more power in the brakes. Plus its easier on the servo. I use the std brake servo and dail in as much or as little brake as I want with the brake mix percentage. If you happen to bend the disk remove and sandwich between two thick flat pieces of fairly hard wood give it a few clouts firmly with a large hammer until the disk looks good.
To set up the brakes leave the servo horn off to start. Set up the cable as per instructions. Turn on the radio and bike ( disconnect one gyro ESC wire to stop the gyro spinning up ) turn on the aux channel switch on top of the radio. Go into the brake mix ( no 11 in the menu ) and turn it on and set this to 110 to start. Go into the EPA settings and set channel 3 high end to 120% and the low end to 0%. Fit the servo horn getting rid of as much free play in the cable as possible without causing any binding of the brake. Spin the front wheel and then adjust up the low end until the pads just rub and back off until the wheel moves free. Use this low end EPA adjustment to keep the pads close to the disk. As they wear adjust this until you run out of adjustment then return the setting to zero and either adjust the cable or the servo horn position. Check and make sure the pads are still ok. Final setting of brake strength is done with the brake mix %. The higher the % the greater the strenght of front brake. Try not to use over 110% with the std servo. Just a tip for slippery dirt you don't want either the front or the rear brakes to completely lock as this only causes the bike to get out of control. I also back the rear brake off slightly to reduce locking on the slippery stuff. I set my EPA at 95%.
Nice! I'll be hitting this thread up Xmas day!
Dec 13, 2012, 05:27 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teamsherman
Nice! I'll be hitting this thread up Xmas day!
No worries dude. There'll be some bike action this Christmas, I know of a few more too .
Dec 13, 2012, 06:04 AM
If u aint 1st your last
Throttlejunkie's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyMc
On the vmx, inside where the steering stem sits, it comes right up to the inside of the frame so there is no space for the stem to move making those rubber grommets kind of pointless. I followed TopDave's advice long ago when he pointed this out and did some minor dremmeling to the frame and stem a little play for the grommets to be effective. I wonder if the mm450 frame changed to accomodate what Dave found?
Do you guy's dremel clearance & run the third bolt or still just the 2 bolts & have they changed the design on the stem on the mm to 3 bolts as my mates mm only has 2.
Dec 13, 2012, 07:43 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Throttlejunkie
Do you guy's dremel clearance & run the third bolt or still just the 2 bolts & have they changed the design on the stem on the mm to 3 bolts as my mates mm only has 2.
I only run two as per std. Have done some testing but on my rough track with three and didn't really like it. Any bad bumps the front took instead of isolating it more to the front the shake it seemed to transfer it more through the bike. Didn't really try it anywhere else. Will maybe do some more testing elsewhere.
Dec 13, 2012, 10:32 AM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
TopDave's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Throttlejunkie
Do you guy's dremel clearance & run the third bolt or still just the 2 bolts & have they changed the design on the stem on the mm to 3 bolts as my mates mm only has 2.
Here's the original post:

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...0#post17349369
Dec 13, 2012, 01:40 PM
Registered User
Good thing to add is a switch to the E-gyro esc so it can be controlled (turned on/off) and also put plastic dip on the tiny E-gyro wires coming out of the wheel to protect them from chafing and shorting out on each other. zip tie them so they don't contact the rear wheel .

Can't wait for the step by step big bore shock write up
Dec 13, 2012, 04:41 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rellik
Good thing to add is a switch to the E-gyro esc so it can be controlled (turned on/off) and also put plastic dip on the tiny E-gyro wires coming out of the wheel to protect them from chafing and shorting out on each other. zip tie them so they don't contact the rear wheel .

Can't wait for the step by step big bore shock write up
Thanks for the tips Rellik, I'll pull my finger out soon and get it done lol.
Dec 13, 2012, 10:26 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by chktm
Thanks for the tips Rellik, I'll pull my finger out soon and get it done lol.

no problem, im sure you have a life out side of this forum and the rc world lol. i wasnt trying to hint or push that comment towards you haha.
Dec 13, 2012, 10:33 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rellik
no problem, im sure you have a life out side of this forum and the rc world lol. i wasnt trying to hint or push that comment towards you haha.
Yea I try to join the real world at times lol. I know you weren't pushing but others want it too so I'll do my best to get it done in the next week or two probably.
Dec 15, 2012, 06:59 AM
Registered User
merry xmas from you to the rc moto world


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