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Dec 01, 2016, 08:57 PM
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It's almost ready to cover. The motor will need shimming, but it's close. I'm not happy with the tail wheel, it's not far enough back. I'll have to redo the wire. So far 486.3 gm.s. Covering, struts, radio equip. and battery? I have to wire the motor for the speed control connection. I don't think this plane will be hard to balance, I'm planning to mount the radio as far back as possible. I'll keep that option open until later.
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Dec 05, 2016, 01:28 AM
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Started covering. I should have trimmed the windows before putting in the panes, next time. I covered the top part of the fin before I mounted it and test fit everything... over and over. The filet was not as hard as keeping everything straight. I did the bottom of the fin first and then the turtle deck.
Last edited by Bleu; Dec 05, 2016 at 01:34 AM.
Dec 06, 2016, 08:10 PM
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A couple of problems showed up while covering. The soft wood bent as the covering shrank, so I had to add internal bracing. In future I'll use stiffer wood in high stress covering areas, like the stringers on the corners of the fuse and leading edges. Also, in the large, open bay areas of the stab, the covering material stuck to itself from both sides, ugly crater like and everything I tried to fix it only buckled the wood. This plane will definitely be nose heavy, if I had it to do again, I would add the lightest weight diagonal bracing in the stab and elevator to support the covering material. I see that the diagonals aren't on the plans, but in the build threads. Oh well, I got past that.
Last edited by Bleu; Dec 07, 2016 at 04:27 PM.
Dec 08, 2016, 02:29 AM
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The business end, cowl and the Nippy. It's dead center here with room for some down thrust. I don't have a clue what fits, so I crunched some numbers on the recommended system and come up with 126 watts. The nippy is rated at 133 watts on 2 cells and 11x5 APC prop. I get 12 amps on an 11x4 and it pulls to stress the bulkhead. The servos are mounted in the wing after the bottom is covered and buried by the top covering. The balance is already good, as I thought, I'll mount the radio under the servos and the battery should fit over the wheels... I hope.
Dec 14, 2016, 10:40 PM
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I messed up the windshield, almost cut off my thumb. I missed thank god. I ordered some more Acetate. I'm looking at 26.5-27 ounces AUW. I added some stripes, but I don't have any decals. This is fine, it will be an everyday putt around. I'm happy so far, but I built around any problems and questions. Definitely not a first kit, it leaves a lot to the imagination. The plans are minimal, but that makes it easy to adapt. The wood is excellent, some too soft and a couple of heavy pieces, but very good compared to some other kits. The landing gear spats are hard for me to mount so they won't pop off, I'll fly without them.
Dec 18, 2016, 11:26 PM
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Windshield, arming switch, ready to go. The battery goes in wayyyy back. Good thing I made a big hatch. Next time I do one of Pat's kits I'll add a door or belly hatch. 27 oz. max. I weighed 2- 1000ma batteries in the total, I can parallel wire them (2P) or get another bigger battery
Dec 19, 2016, 02:27 PM
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Looks very good! Nice work

What kind of material did you use for covering?

It's challenging to be gentle when covering fragile stick models like Pats... very easy to over shrink the covering and damage things. Even tissue paper will shrink and warp some 'floaty' models. Learning curve for sure

Dan
Dec 20, 2016, 12:15 PM
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E-Challenged's Avatar
Surprised that it wanted to be nose-heavy. Nice work. Be careful not to crush soft balsa stringers during handling. I substitute vulnerable stringers with bass wood stringers. Tritle designs can stand some careful beefing up without affecting flying qualities.
Dec 20, 2016, 09:35 PM
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This is Coverite Microlite covering material and it seems like the dark blue is thicker than the silver. I upped the prop to 11x7.5 and 15 amps. I will wrap the strut tips from now on, one popped out. I like this model, but the lack of a plastic cowl will change my next choice, that was a few extra days of building. I see there is more involved than just blowing up a small stick model to a big stick model.... a big model out of sticks that is. This reminds me of a long time ago, If I could only shoot marbles again
Dec 21, 2016, 03:19 PM
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This is the 40" WS Voyager. It flies nicely, but grass landings are out, they tend to rip the gear off. The Filet and strut mounts are the same as the 60", I will wrap the 60" struts from now on. I could have added ailerons to the 40", but I wanted it under .5 lb. The location of the Velcro on the 40" should have let me know about where the battery would go in the 60", the radio is mounted on the reverse side of the bulkhead. The ailerons and flaps didn't change that much on the 60". The cowl is built up on the 40" and the tip is plastic, much lighter and much less work/carving/sanding compared to the 60". I think that had an effect, the battery goes further back in the 60". The nose heavy condition surprised me before, badly on a twin. New rule for me: build the nose with weight in mind, no longer the heaviest stock.
Dec 21, 2016, 10:28 PM
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Shrink wrap tubing on the strut tips to hold the wires. I'm rethinking this parallel plug, new battery in mind. I need a float plane. NEED!!! My club has float flys every second Monday of the month. Super Cub?
Feb 22, 2017, 02:35 AM
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Update. I put a big heavy tailwheel on it, over an ounce to bring the balance forward. The battery location is now just behind the hatch. A latch on the hatch, easy to install, hard to see.
Feb 22, 2017, 08:31 AM
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P. Tritle's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bleu
Update. I put a big heavy tailwheel on it, over an ounce to bring the balance forward. The battery location is now just behind the hatch. A latch on the hatch, easy to install, hard to see.
Bleu, Don't mean to open a can of worms, but adding tail weight -- "heavy tail wheel" -- won't bring the CG forward, it'll move it back. Hoping that was just a typo, wouldn't want to see the maiden flight turn into a rodeo -- been there, done that, and didn't like it much.

PAT
Feb 22, 2017, 12:29 PM
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E-Challenged's Avatar
Model should balance slightly nose-down at the point indicated on the plans. You need to add weight to nose to get it balanced, in most models like this, unless you have battery pack well forward and very little weight in the tail. Don't fly until you have the model balanced properly.
Correct any warps in wing sighting carefully from the rear.
Feb 28, 2017, 03:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Tritle
Bleu, Don't mean to open a can of worms, but adding tail weight -- "heavy tail wheel" -- won't bring the CG forward, it'll move it back. Hoping that was just a typo, wouldn't want to see the maiden flight turn into a rodeo -- been there, done that, and didn't like it much.

PAT
It was a typo, the battery location moved forward for correct balance. I confused myself while writing. I had to stick my arm in to the elbow to place the battery before and I didn't want to cut a new hatch somewhere further back so I used the wheel. I'll do better with practice. Thank you for the heads up.


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