Content Removed due to the fact that I do not agree with forum policy
here, and do not want them generating profit with my content.

Content Removed due to the fact that I do not agree with forum policy
here, and do not want them generating profit with my content.

It's pretty awesome how our community is making this concerted effort to address all the flaws in our beloved 9116. It's such a ridiculous waste of time in so many ways, but so addictive and fun. I can't stop!!! The big benefit for me has been all the lessons learned along the way.

As for testing of the mixing arm offset, I'm going to measure the balls on the existing arms and try to find some ball studs of the same size. From there, I can just make several arms with different offsets, screw in the studs and test them out. Steve_, you wouldn't happen to have a digital caliper handy for measuring the balls on the mixing arms, would you?

Im thinking of ordering the 9116 from Amazon and I am thinking about getting another battery for it so I can switch one out while the other is charging. Should I try and find a 7.4v 900mah battery or just go with another stock one? I have heard that going with something with around 900mah as long as its about the same size and weight can make the 9116 fly stronger and longer. Is this true?

I probley would have already just bought a 900mah but finding one that around $10 to $15 shipped not from China is pretty hard and Im just wondering if it is really worth it since I can get a stock one from Amazon for only $11 shipped.

Content Removed due to the fact that I do not agree with forum policy
here, and do not want them generating profit with my content.

Originally Posted by Steve_

I do, but the size varies depending on wear, and the balls on the spinning
part of the swash are smaller than the rest.

And out of a half-dozen link sizes, none of them fit.
I had to custom grind my own.

Mixing arms balls and swashplate arm balls: 3.7 to 3.85mm, depending on wear.

Swash top balls: 3.4 to 3.55 mm depending on wear.

Ok, thanks. I'll start searching for ball studs. Hopefully the won't be terribly expensive.

EDIT:
Found some 3.8mm balls for making our own mixing arms. I don't really want to mess with the swash since it's already very delicate as it is. This is the specific item I ordered, except I found it on eBay with free shipping. Order placed...now the waiting begins *sigh*

Content Removed due to the fact that I do not agree with forum policy
here, and do not want them generating profit with my content.

Originally Posted by Steve_

I used a link kit from a HK250GT, and then ground out the ID with
a ball end resizing tool. They get very thin, but none have broken.

They are smaller and lighter than stock, and help offset the extra
weight from the metal rods.

The rods I used were 1.3mm, anything bigger adds a bunch of
weight.

They are strong enough that during a blade strike, I broke an upper
swashplate ball, without breaking anything else.

Be aware that a bad crash will probably strip a servo with the metal
linkage. There is no give in the linkage, and other things break instead.

Ah, clever! Got any photos?

Content Removed due to the fact that I do not agree with forum policy
here, and do not want them generating profit with my content.

Originally Posted by aphex4000

Ah, clever! Got any photos?

Go back a few pages. I posted bunches of picture of the new linkage
and mixing arms.

I don't think it's working well for me because I have other parts
that are damaged and out-of-whack, mainly the top shaft.

Originally Posted by Steve_

Go back a few pages. I posted bunches of picture of the new linkage
and mixing arms.

I don't think it's working well for me because I have other parts
that are damaged and out-of-whack, mainly the top shaft.

Found it

Originally Posted by aphex4000

Found it

Page 81 and 82 in this thread have better pictures.

Originally Posted by Steve_

Page 81 and 82 in this thread have better pictures.

Ah, I kept looking for a post with a biased mixing arms but I do remember seeing that when you first posted them. I really like the fact that they're ball bearing supported, which allows you to crank the mounting screws down.

Content Removed due to the fact that I do not agree with forum policy
here, and do not want them generating profit with my content.

Originally Posted by Steve_

Here is an arm that is closer to the ratio of the F645.

These are from my thrashed HK250GT head.

There are four of them, and none of them appear to be damaged.

This post got me looking at the HK-250GT and I think it broke my brain. I've been distracted reading the HK-250GT thread for the last hour now. These may seem like silly questions, but how will I know when it's time to taper off on the 9116 tinkering and try upgrading to a CP? What kind of indications should I look out for to know when I'm ready?