Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 03:30 PM
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Darmar, I will give you $10.00 for it.. Ask for another one if you want perfection. Im the same way with NEW stuff.
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by capt soap View Post
Darmar, I will give you $10.00 for it.. Ask for another one if you want perfection. Im the same way with NEW stuff.
Perfection is not the point. If I damaged it on first run, fine. This is new out of the box, screw the customer thing. No I am not selling it, thanks for the offer.
Old Jan 26, 2013, 04:30 PM
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This is what a $16 dollar fan looks like at times. As long as you balance it and it runs smooth you are well ahead of the game. As an example, if you bought a Shubeler 70mm fan and ran it a little out of balance you would lose more performance on an out of balance fan than you will with small nicks like that on one blade. Not that a Shubeler fan would be running out of balance unless you were using a cheap motor. Besides that, a cheap motor with a little lower efficiency will bring down overall efficiency far more than a little blade deformity I would imagine. I fly real jet engines and on pre-flight inspections I see blades that have been "dressed" to take out FOD damage below a certain level all the time. So even real jet engines have blade deformities that they pick up over time between overhauls.
Nicks are stress risers, especially the closer to the hub they are. "Dressing" them out and rebalancing definately helps.
The Shubie rotor would be less likely to grenade for any reason due to the carbon weave, but even they will go boom at high rpms if nicked in the wrong place or out of balance.
$18 or $250, it's still keeping your $800 - $1000, 70mm jet in the air.
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 09:00 PM
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For sure any fan, let alone a $16 dollar fan, should never be allowed to be a weak point in an expensive jet. My point was actually looking at the subject from the other side of the coin. It's a cheap fan, so expect cheap components once in a while. Nobody should fly those sub standard rotors if they get them until they "dress" the nicks or better yet buy a couple rotors and cherry pick the parts. Or, buy a better quality fan that doesn't have these issues. But a $16 dollar fan is bound to have a few issues for one to overcome. It might be a bargain once it's worked out but it's still a mass produced, low QA production... by nature.
Old Jan 30, 2013, 05:16 AM
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Hi all,

Any tricks how to tighten the main nut on the CS12 v2? Is there any other way to hold the fan stationary not using the blades to transfer the force?
Old Jan 30, 2013, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by amalka View Post
Hi all,

Any tricks how to tighten the main nut on the CS12 v2? Is there any other way to hold the fan stationary not using the blades to transfer the force?
Use a star washer between the fan and adapter. I just carfully hold a fw blades to tighten with this small fan.
Old Jan 30, 2013, 07:55 AM
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File flats on the shaft adaptor end....

...
Old Jan 30, 2013, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by amalka View Post
Hi all,

Any tricks how to tighten the main nut on the CS12 v2? Is there any other way to hold the fan stationary not using the blades to transfer the force?
I drill a hole across the end of the shaft adapter and use it to hold with a screw driver while tightening the nut.
Old Jan 30, 2013, 08:22 AM
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Or file a slot on the end of the shaft adapter (ala Tam's) so you can hold it with a flat screwdriver.
Old Jan 30, 2013, 08:24 AM
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or file away some of the thread on the tip (conically) using a file on the turning shaft - then you can grab the front with pliers (and still get the nut on)...
Old Jan 30, 2013, 09:37 AM
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file flats on the shaft adaptor end....

...
+1...
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 09:38 AM
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I drill a hole across the end of the shaft adapter and use it to hold with a screw driver while tightening the nut.
Can this be done without ruining the threads?

I'm always thinking I'm going to walk the bit into the rest of the threads and make it unusable.

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Old Jan 30, 2013, 09:57 AM
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The threads are affected a bit but can be cleaned up.
Old Jan 30, 2013, 10:08 AM
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...and the part of the thread on top can be a bit mutilated, it should be cleaned up using a steel nut (not aluminium), but there will not be any load, it should just be good enough to get the nut on the thread, that's all. The part where the nut has do to its job is further down where the thread is fine...
Old Jan 30, 2013, 11:22 AM
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Here's what I do and it seems to work. I file a flat spot on the motor shaft witha dremel, then tighten a grub screw over the flat spot. Then tighten the shaft nut over the fan by holding the motor from behind and turning the nut with a tool. I get enough torque to tighten the nut. I don't use any locktite on the nut, in case I need to remove it. I found putting locktite on the nut causes big problems if I have to change out motors.


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