What you need is one of these beasties:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RC-Nitro-...item416e14fea0

Plus a glowclip (as in my above post) for the engine to make it easy to connect, then hold and start the model.

Any parts you need try coxengines.com or exengines.com they both do good spares for Cox engines. Think a new head runs about $5 from memory.

Cheers - boingk

The problem with those hand held drivers is that they have to be absolutely fully charged in order to deliver enough power. Glow plugs were designed for 1.5V and not the 1.2V that they have when half-charged. Especially when used with cables for a glow clip you also loose power through the wires, there is a reason for them to clip directly onto the regular glow plug.

For a regulated voltage/current you'll need something like the one from Dynamite RC (Lipo driven with switching technology for the right voltage/current) Dynamite RC;

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I'd use this:

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...river_v2_.html

But that one above looks very good. Only thing I don't like about the wand style for Cox engines is that you tend to have to push down hard on them... not great for 1/2A models. I much prefer clips.

Attached is my home made glow starter. Have so far used it to light off my A.C. Glibert .074 Thunderhead and Testers Series 21 Black Head .40 CL engines. The 2 alkaline D-cells in parallel provide enough power at 1.5 Volts.

I have the same setup, only mine is two D cells taped together with wires soldered to the ends. Two D cells lasts a really long time.

Especially if you use rechargeables:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4x-10000m...item416ee58417

- boingk

Originally Posted by OkiThumper

Attached is my home made glow starter. Have so far used it to light off my A.C. Glibert .074 Thunderhead and Testers Series 21 Black Head .40 CL engines. The 2 alkaline D-cells in parallel provide enough power at 1.5 Volts.

Nice. Thanks for the picture. I'll probably build something like that for my 1/2A engines.

Originally Posted by PyroMan

Nice. Thanks for the picture. I'll probably build something like that for my 1/2A engines.

You're very handy with your hands there, PyroMan. I'm sure you'll come up with something that is outstanding and will do the job in an excellent way.

My Cox Tee Dee series engines ran best with high nitro and castor oil. During break-in they would "tighten up" due to a build-up of castor oil varnish in the cylinder. The cure was to scour the cylinder out with very fine steel wool wrapped on a dowel , dipped in fuel, and spun with your fingers to remove varnish. I also used tooth paste. After cleaning, wash with hot water and dish detergent, dry thoroughly , lube with Marvel Mystery oil and reassemble engine with loving care. Tightness would be gone but compression would be good. This cleaning to remove varnish was only necessary once. It was necessary to tighten the conrod ball/socket after a number of prolonged runs using the correct Cox reset tool with care. Make sure to use correct cox wrenches properly to remove cylinders and heads. Do not use electric starters, spring starters work well. After lawn-darting, do not attempt to run engines until after thorough cleaning.

One needs to do the same with the reed valve engines. After a number of flights, the varnish builds up. a good cylinder scrubbing with steel wool does wonders. I didn't have Marvel Mystery Oil, so I used a light machine oil like 3-in-1 or auto motor oil. Never had an electric starter to mess with on half-A's, not needed as they are easy starting by hand. Ditto the same for larger engines such as the OS and Enya .09's to .15's, both old (non-Schneurle) and newer (Schneurle).

Hey guys, thanks for the info about the cox engines. I'll keep that in mind after I get my cox engines started.

I got my two Cox 049 Surestarts in the mail this morning. I would be attempting to start them right now, but the seller failed to mention to me that they did not come with prop screws. If he had I would've already ordered the prop screws so I could start the engine when I received it. I would just buy like a 100 pack of 5-40 screws from a hardware store online, but I need a few other things so it looks like I will be placing an order with Cox International.

I will be getting some prop screws, an 049 wrench tool, and a starter spring set (the one that comes with the cam). I have a 6x3 prop that has been filed down to a 5x3 from my McCoy 049 that I could use, but I'll probably pick up another prop though. What do ya'll recommend for a prop?

Also, a spinner is unnecessary . . . right? It's just for looks?

Is there anything else I need before I place my order?


Thanks,
Nicholas

Originally Posted by PyroMan

I got my two Cox 049 Surestarts in the mail this morning. I would be attempting to start them right now, but the seller failed to mention to me that they did not come with prop screws.

Also, a spinner is unnecessary . . . right? It's just for looks?

Thanks,
Nicholas

If your Surestarts were ordered from a dealer, they should have shipped with prop screws --- this is standard. They are usually included in a separate plastic sack with the spring starter. If they did come from a dealer, get in touch and have him ship them out.

A 5x3, 5.5x3 or 6x3 prop will work just fine.

A spinner is not necessary. Large third party spinners can actually reduce your prop speed slightly due to mass and some of the less expensive spinners may be out of balance. The turned aluminum spinners that Bernie sells will work nicely.

You can get Master Airscrew 6x3 props at Jackson Purchase Hobbies.

PM me with your mailing address and I'll send you a couple of prop screws.

andrew

just lost the last of my ancient cox plug clips, back to using roach clips like i did 30 years ago.

Went to the hardware store this afternoon . . . no 5-40 screws. I sent you a PM Andrew. Thanks so much.

I'll probably just order the prop from Cox International because I don't get out towards JPH until MSU's classes start back. I think I'm going to go with these: http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-propel...y-5-x-3-3.html

I think you will be better satisfied with either the black 5x3 (5x30000) or the 5x3 safty tip (5x300ST). Both of these are more flexible than the competition gray and generally will survive ground strikes without breaking.

(the screws will go out in tomorrow's mail)

andrew