F/A-241 Shrike - RC Groups
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Nov 09, 2012, 11:06 PM
"Fly, yes... Land, No"
OutcastZeroOne's Avatar

F/A-241 Shrike

F/A-241 Shrike (thanks to Dickeroo for the name suggestion)

1-1.25 sheets of Readi-Board (Dollar Tree foam board)

2 HXT900 Servos
Power System:
AX 1806N 2900kv motor
(these motors have similar specs:
AX 1806N 2500kv Brushless Micro Motor (19g) (this is the closest to what I am running)
C2222 Micro brushless Outrunner 2850kv (15g)
TURNIGY Plush 12amp (2A BEC) BESC
Rhino 460mAh 3S 11.1v 20C Lipoly Pack
Rhino 610mAh 3S 11.1v 20C Lipoly Pack
TGS Sport 6x4E Precision propeller
GWS EP Propeller (DD-5043 125x110mm)

Wingspan: 26"
Length: 20"
Height: 6"
Around 190 grams flying weight. (with Kfm4 wing and some tape)
KFm2 or Kfm4 wing

Prebuild preparation:
1. Decide on the airframe. There are 3 finalized versions of the aircraft (A, B, and C). There are also a number of alternate canards and tails to choose from on the craft, giving you many possibilities and ways to customize your Shrike.


Original design. Has a strait leading edge wing. Lightest of all the versions and very nimble.


Slightly larger wing on the "B" model. Has a "double delta" step where the tail attaches to the wing. Very good and nimble airframe.


Canardless version of the air frame. Can use with the "A" or "B" main wing with a large wing root to get rid of the need for a canard. Good for areas with sudden gusty winds.
Parts for making this version are included with both "A" and "B" model plans.

2. Decide on a canard or no canard if going with the "C" model.

Both the A and B models come with their "standard" canards, but here are some other options.

Forward swept canard. Great lift. Good for if useing a battery a little larger then the 460mah Rhino. But can be pitchy in gusty winds.

shorter but wider version of the "B" canard. Good lift and maneuverability.

Makes the airframe into the "C" model. Trades canard for a wide wing root.

3. Pick your tails. All different tail designs work equally well with very little differance in performance between them. mostly aesthetics.

Standard version. Comes with all plans.

Prototypes tails (included in plans)

Sweptback tail

4. All versions will use this canopy brace. Cut out of good cardboard or posterboard. Will be needed to help hold and align removable hatches. (Included in plans)

Building a Shrike:
1: Cut out all your parts. Depending on if you want to make it with a Kf2 or Kf4 wing. Kf2 version will need 1 full sheet of Readi-Board, Kf4 will need slightly more.

2: Glue down one side worth of Kf step parts and fuselage floor. Flip over and repeat. If you are doing a Kf2, you need only attach the second floor bracing underneath. Be sure you install your wing bracing.

3: Assemble the winglets, gluing the Kf steps to the main winglet body.

4: Attaching the winglets. The winglets go on at an angle. Either cut or sand the edge to the require angle and glue the winglets on in place. Use the supplied angle guide to get the correct angle. (22)

5: Its a good idea to round the leading edges of the wings. I made a simple tool using some 1/2" PVC pipe and sand paper. At this point its a good idea to start some basics of the paint. This model is a bit difficult to fully color once fully assembled. I went with a basic "VF-1A" paint scheme, going back to my Macross roots

6: Preping the Fuselage sides. On the plans I say to use a pin to mark where the canopy, and ESC cover are to be cut out from. Once the pin locations are punched into the foam, its a good idea to draw the lins for the canopy and ESC cover before gluing the fuselage sides on. Do not cut out the parts yet. just get them glued on to the main wing.

7: At this point you can glue the tails on.

8: Close up the fuselage. You will need to notch the front of the fuselage down so that the top piece will lay flush between the sides of the fuselage at the nose. I start at the back and work my way forward taping the sides of the fuselage shut against the top piece. You may notice that as the fuselage is closed up it will start to bend the front of the fuselage down, giving the canards a slight negative incidence to the main wing. This is fine.

For those who don't know, incidence is the angle two control surfaces are to each other. If you draw a line between the main wing and the canards you will see they do not line up, but cross at a slight angle. This is normal for this design, every model I have made had this and flew fine.

9: Do the same to attach the under belly piece on.

10: When the glue has fully set, hit the foam quickly with a heat gun. This will help set the foam in the shape of the fuselage. You will now be cutting out the canopy and ESC cover. If you don't heat the foam, it will spring out and be hard to line back up to make use of the cut parts as removable covers.

11: Next we get the canopy brace ready. This part is to be made from good, stiff cardboard.

First place it into the fuselage and trace the canopy line. This will help you so that you don't use too much glue.

Be sure to secure the brace in place as the glue sets.

12: Glue some small tabs of cardboard to the front and back of the canopy and ESC covers you cut out. The cardboard tabs will allow you to easily remove or install the covers when needed. You will simply need to bend the foam slightly to secure, or remove the cover. you want about 1/8" to 1/4" (3mm - 6mm) of tab hanging off the edge of the foam.

13: Glue on the motor mount and your favorite type of control horns. I cut the control horns in about 3/4" in from the edge of the control surface. The motor mount I made is simply a round piece of plastic I cut out with a hole saw, and glued onto the back of the fuselage. When you glue the motor mount on, be sure you glue it on at the same angle of incidence as the canards.

14: Cut out the servo areas. I go about 1/4" from the Kf step leading edge, and about 1/4" from the fuselage body. You can go flush against the fuse if you wish. My servo cut out template limits me here for useing my hot wire knife.

Next I cut a small opening to run the servo wires into the fuselage. I happen to have a small file that is almost the exact same size as the servo plug.

15: Install servos, and run wires inside.

16: Cut out a small opening to run the motor wires inside.

Install motor and run in your wires

17: Install the rest of your electronics, and string up your servos.

18: Finish your paint job and get it ready to fly. CG should be between the front of the Kf step and front of servos.

Last edited by OutcastZeroOne; Jun 03, 2013 at 09:57 PM.
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Nov 09, 2012, 11:22 PM
"Fly, yes... Land, No"
OutcastZeroOne's Avatar
Here are plans for the YF-X-241. Its build is much the same as the other variants. Only differance is placment of the canards.

Please note that if you wish to use a movable canard on this design you will need to place the servo far enough in front of the linkage to be able to slide a batter behind the connection point of the canards. This also means some type of easily disconectable servo linkage. I ended up with my Rx in the rear section of the plane with the ESC on top.

YF-X-241 (1 min 51 sec)

YF-X-241 Shrike (2 min 5 sec)
Last edited by OutcastZeroOne; May 29, 2013 at 01:23 AM.
Nov 09, 2012, 11:23 PM
"Fly, yes... Land, No"
OutcastZeroOne's Avatar
reserved for future use, again. Will place EDF version here
Last edited by OutcastZeroOne; Nov 15, 2012 at 11:08 PM.
Nov 12, 2012, 04:47 PM
"Fly, yes... Land, No"
OutcastZeroOne's Avatar
Compolation of some videos I have of my newest F/A-241 Shrikes

FA-241 Shrike (1 min 53 sec)
Last edited by OutcastZeroOne; Jun 23, 2013 at 03:15 PM.
Nov 16, 2012, 01:08 AM
"Fly, yes... Land, No"
OutcastZeroOne's Avatar
I never seem to be happy with my canards for this plane. Posted up a couple different canards in post #3. If someone also has ideas for alternate parts let me know and I can keep adding them to post #3.

You guys can post here. I simply started a new thread for the finalized plans to also have a nice how to build guide.
Last edited by OutcastZeroOne; Feb 05, 2013 at 03:30 AM.
Nov 19, 2012, 04:35 PM
"Fly, yes... Land, No"
OutcastZeroOne's Avatar
added a PDF for the original prototypes tails
Dec 06, 2012, 02:42 AM
"Fly, yes... Land, No"
OutcastZeroOne's Avatar
Started working on a plug for vacuforming a clear canopy to mount a camera in the "cockpit" of the plane. See if I can get a good "Pilots view". Will let you guys know how it turns out. Thinking of getting the Wing Camera from Hobbyking.

Seems like a decent little camera for the money. Videos I've seen taken with it look better then my old camera too.

Now I just need to finish the plug and get it as smooth as I can for making a good canopy for the camera
Last edited by OutcastZeroOne; Jan 21, 2013 at 12:31 PM.
Dec 06, 2012, 09:54 AM
Registered User
Added to the mile-long build list. Really like this design. Also, saw you have it listed on parkjets.com, and I thought that was super cool. Congrats!
Latest blog entry: DPS-600PB Dual Build
Dec 06, 2012, 02:52 PM
"Fly, yes... Land, No"
OutcastZeroOne's Avatar
Originally Posted by bhoov128
Added to the mile-long build list. Really like this design. Also, saw you have it listed on parkjets.com, and I thought that was super cool. Congrats!
Thanks, its a really fun plane to fly. I also keep making alternate parts for the thing too.
Dec 06, 2012, 06:30 PM
Registered User
Any reason for the servo pushrods to come out the top rather than on the underside of the wing? It would give a "cleaner" look.

The orange winged one has servos further out - good? bad?
Dec 07, 2012, 01:28 AM
"Fly, yes... Land, No"
OutcastZeroOne's Avatar
Originally Posted by Mac50L
Any reason for the servo pushrods to come out the top rather than on the underside of the wing? It would give a "cleaner" look.
No reason. I just had them on top to keep things simpler and protect the linkage during landings.

Originally Posted by Mac50L
The orange winged one has servos further out - good? bad?
that was the original prototype. I was useing diffferent linkages and the servos being that far out kept the linkage straiter for that prototype. When I switched over to steel wire linkage instead of the nylon plastic with collets I was able to move the servos inbord more. The steel cables where also lighter by several grams.

At the time I built the first prototype I was useing HXT-500 servos which have very short wires. So being able to move the servos inboard more allowed me to have more flexabillity with the Rx inside. Not having to stretch wires to link them onto the Rx. Final version I was useing HXT-900 servos which have a much longer wire. But since all my templates where set up with the servos tight against the body I just stuck with it. If anything, keeping the weight close to center helps the aircraft roll faster. Like how a figure skater spins faster with their arms in then when they have them out.

Ultimately the servos can be placed how ever the end builder may want them. This design has a lot of flexability with how it can be built. The final plans I have up are the "Standard" way I was building the planes after the first few prototypes. But as I said before, things can be modified by personal preferance. Thats also one reason why I have also uploaded alternate parts such as different canards and tails.
Dec 09, 2012, 05:22 PM
"Fly, yes... Land, No"
OutcastZeroOne's Avatar
been working on a clear canopy for this guy. first test came out ok. Reworked the plug so that with luck, the plastic canopy can be secured the same way as the foam one. Im out of plastic now so i cant do any more tests to see if it will fit cleanly yet. with luck I will be up and running again with this little side project in a few days.

I hope to be able to make clear canopys for any of you guys who want to mount a camera or do FPV with this plane. Other colors can also be requested too once I get things going
Dec 10, 2012, 06:50 PM
"Fly, yes... Land, No"
OutcastZeroOne's Avatar
Added some new tails. thinner, more traditional set up, away from the trapaziod style.
Dec 16, 2012, 11:26 PM
"Fly, yes... Land, No"
OutcastZeroOne's Avatar
Added tiled plans of the planes. Also edited some info about equipment used.

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