Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 10:03 AM
DamonH is online now
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Wow....very nice ace!
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 10:05 AM
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+1, looks really, really good!!!

- B
Old Nov 29, 2012, 06:49 PM
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If you do sell a few of these, please put me down for one
Great work!
Old Nov 29, 2012, 08:01 PM
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Very impressed with all this --- Great Job !!!!
Old Dec 01, 2012, 03:27 PM
FlyDave is offline
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Ehy Ace, looks like Hobbyking has seen your thread and has stolen the idea of a T-28 made of fiberglass eheh

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...00mm_ARF_.html

But don't worry, your T-28 looks waaaaaaaaaaaaaay better !! Go on with your project, i'm following with curiosity, i want to try this too someday.

Dave
Old Dec 01, 2012, 11:33 PM
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i would be very happy with just the Fuse, i have a 4 axis foam cutter to do a set of wings. i have 2 of these and was going to cut one of the bad wings i have for the templates so i can scan them for the cutter..
Old Dec 02, 2012, 12:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randynsaudi View Post
i would be very happy with just the Fuse, i have a 4 axis foam cutter to do a set of wings. i have 2 of these and was going to cut one of the bad wings i have for the templates so i can scan them for the cutter..

Well that makes me feel happy that I made the fuse be able to retrofit with the original foam wings. I had the notion that some folks may want to purchase just a fuse and tail sections that are highly detailed but use the original wings with retracts etc. So I may just sell a few once I'm up and running.

Today and yesterday. I have spent hours making up the plugs for the cockpit tub. Seeing that I modified the front canopy to be a permanent fit. I had to also make the instrument panel and glare shield section has part of the fixed in place fuselage. The tub with its combined canopy just lifts from the back via magnet and alignment pins. The front of the canopy will just slide under and in to the fixed forward windshield section just like a real plane then drop down to the magnets hence keeping it out of the airstream. I was always losing mine during flight.

Unfortunately my pics did not come out very well so will post new ones ASAP. I don't think that most people realize how much work is involved in making these things that can be reproduced. The cockpit plug is all made in reverse so it can be laid up in one nice part. I intend to make two really scale instrument panels with all the dials covered in glass with the correct raised surrounds and tiny screws etc. These will be silicone and pressure castings.
Old Dec 02, 2012, 01:36 AM
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sounds great... keep my e-mail rigrandy1959@yahoo.com when you want to sell some fuseage's..
Old Dec 02, 2012, 08:04 PM
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Today I worked on finishing the foam cockpit plugs. I glassed the plugs with 2oz cloth to get them ready for final finishing. I'll first give them a quick and heavy prime coat. Then a light sanding to show where putty filler needs to go. Then repeat and so forth. The final mould will actually be a positive instead of a negative like the rest of the plane.

I tried out my new heat box and just love it. I would normally have to wait between two to four hours for the resin to tackup and around twelve plus to harden. I laid the cloth and resin around 1 pm and it was almost dry at 1:50pm. I finished working around 3 pm and the plug where dry and pretty hard. This is going to knock hours off making moulds and laying up parts.

I also started to redo a new plug for the cowl and radial engine. I'm forming the cowl lip to be very scale which means it will be a large radius and much thicker than what I now have. This will allow me to make a new mould that I can pull both the sides and lip all as one unit. The engines get cast under pressure to allow for super high details with no bubbles. Then it is a simple matter to glue the engine to the front inside lip of the cowl for a perfect fit.
Old Dec 04, 2012, 07:37 PM
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Today I did a few things. Decided to redo the cowl and make it more scale and a bit more detail. So had to cut one up and use glass cloth to wrap the nose lip to get it more round and thicker.

Also worked on the cockpit getting it smooth ready for primer. Also made up one half of the rudder mold. My new heat box cut the times down to a fraction of what they where for curing. Tomorrow the other rudder half and more work on the cowl and cockpit plug.
Old Dec 06, 2012, 07:11 PM
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A lot done today. Finally figured out a simple way of installing my nose retract and steering. On the original it had a plastic box that was heavy that the servos where crammed in to. Made for very complicated and unreliable steering etc. Now I have a simple ball and clevis connection that works great and very easy to service in the field.

Rudder molds are done and look great. Need to layup a part and test fit hinge pin and control horn. I'm hoping to just fill this with urethane expandable foam. Depends on weight and stiffness once I have the part done.

Cockpit parts are ready for finish sanding. The cockpit will be made of three different molds. I need to get making up the plug for the instruments and side panels. These will be pressure cast in plastic and will include textures, raised instrument rings along with knobs and dials. The dial faces will be in hires graphics with glass over them and will be set behind the panel for a scale look.

The new cowl is almost ready for detailing then new molds made. I need to pressure cast a new engine to test fit prior to making the molds. I can take a 100 grams off by using micro spheres in the plastic.
Old Dec 06, 2012, 07:52 PM
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I like the simplicity of the steering servo setup. Question. How does the retract close without binding the steering servo? Aren't you afraid of stripping the servo?
Old Dec 06, 2012, 08:14 PM
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Hi Prof

No binding at all. By setting the angle correctly it opens and closes real easy. The clevis is allowed to rotate on the arm and the ball fitting on the servo combine to have no slop and no friction. I simply placed the servo then cycled the gear until I found the best height and positioning. Then I marked it off and fit the servo. I had to turn the clevis a couple of turns to fine tune once screwed in.
Old Dec 06, 2012, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesimmer View Post
Hi Prof

No binding at all. By setting the angle correctly it opens and closes real easy. The clevis is allowed to rotate on the arm and the ball fitting on the servo combine to have no slop and no friction. I simply placed the servo then cycled the gear until I found the best height and positioning. Then I marked it off and fit the servo. I had to turn the clevis a couple of turns to fine tune once screwed in.
Ingenious use of the ball cup.
Old Dec 07, 2012, 05:33 PM
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Very nice Ace

J
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