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Jan 01, 2013, 09:24 AM
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P. Tritle's Avatar
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future bush plane designs... a DHC-2 Beaver?

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Jan 01, 2013, 09:25 AM
I eat glue
Gee Charlie, I've got a nice, barely used Mills .75 you'd probably like!
Jan 02, 2013, 04:33 PM
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P_J_Glor's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Tritle
future bush plane designs... a DHC-2 Beaver?

Already in the works
WHOOPEEE !!!

Pete G
Jan 02, 2013, 06:43 PM
I eat glue
Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Tritle
future bush plane designs... a DHC-2 Beaver?

Already in the works
60" I hope.
Jan 02, 2013, 08:55 PM
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P. Tritle's Avatar
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60 it is
Jan 02, 2013, 08:59 PM
I eat glue
Okay you're forgiven for it not being a 60" Fleet Canuk, cuz that's a bushplane too you guys!
Jan 03, 2013, 09:02 PM
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Hi Pat, When the wings are built, do I have to build a Washout Jig to insure proper dihedral and washout alignment or is this already setup in the build?
Thanks
Jan 03, 2013, 09:17 PM
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P. Tritle's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcairboater
Hi Pat, When the wings are built, do I have to build a Washout Jig to insure proper dihedral and washout alignment or is this already setup in the build?
Thanks
RC, You don't have to use a washout jig, but it does somewhat simplify setting up the struts. The main thing with washout is not the amount -- "a little bit" will be just right, but most importantly is that both sides are the same. For that you can do the parrellel stick routine to see that the inner and outter values are the same.

PAT
Jan 03, 2013, 09:56 PM
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philipa_240sx's Avatar
When I built Pat's clipped wing T-craft and the Berkeley Beaver, I just eyeballed it and got pretty close.

Getting biplane wings straight with equal washout has always been tricky for me. On the last build I had some wildly differing washout amounts. I think it may have been an interplane strut issue... Who knows?

When the time comes on the Nieuport 28 build, I'm definitely building Pat's washout jig.
Jan 03, 2013, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Tritle
RC, You don't have to use a washout jig, but it does somewhat simplify setting up the struts. The main thing with washout is not the amount -- "a little bit" will be just right, but most importantly is that both sides are the same. For that you can do the parrellel stick routine to see that the inner and outter values are the same.

PAT
Care to explain this Pat? parrellel stick routine
Jan 04, 2013, 06:37 AM
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philipa_240sx's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcairboater
Care to explain this Pat? parrellel stick routine
It's a common technique used in woodworking. Two straight sticks (winding sticks) are placed parallel to each other at opposite ends of the wing. You then sight down the wing from the wing tip. The winding sticks give you a visual aid to identify twist or washout.

Jan 04, 2013, 07:23 AM
Cut it twice, still too short
dglo's Avatar
OK, a Beaver would be pretty cool, but a 60" Storch would be VERY cool. There's a group of us that have been waiting a long time for that one. I think you'd have a dozen orders before the build thread was finished.

Doug
Last edited by dglo; Jan 04, 2013 at 07:44 AM.
Jan 04, 2013, 10:23 AM
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E-Challenged's Avatar
I finally bought a Robart incidence meter, it can do a number of different alignment checks, not just wing incidences. Probably not great for really small models though.
Jan 05, 2013, 02:00 PM
Registered User
I'm a little confused on the proper dihedral and washout alignment. Would someone please explain the process and how to do this? This is my first scale plane from Pat and I don't want to mess it up. I would appreciate it explained so I can understand, no fancy abbreviations etc.
Jan 05, 2013, 03:37 PM
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P. Tritle's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcairboater
I'm a little confused on the proper dihedral and washout alignment. Would someone please explain the process and how to do this? This is my first scale plane from Pat and I don't want to mess it up. I would appreciate it explained so I can understand, no fancy abbreviations etc.
RC, Washout is a span-wise twist in the wing that reduces the angle of attack at the tip as compaired to the root -- at the tip, the Trailing Edge is higher then the Leading Edge. The idea is to get the wingtips to stall last. The dihedral is built into the wing joinery so there's no need to set up anything there.

PAT


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