1/35!!! Type XXIII These are going to sell fast - Page 6 - RC Groups
Shop our Airplanes Products Drone Products Sales
Thread Tools
Apr 13, 2013, 10:16 AM
just a ordinairy guy

You're getting close,
I think we have the same approach, but slightly different,

I use a circular motion to pivot the pins, and builded two layers of PCB, each one for a door.

With my design i can choose which door will be opened, depending on which servo i activade.

Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Apr 13, 2013, 11:47 AM
Registered User
Why not cut 2 grooves through the PCB like this, ( ). Much simpler...
Apr 13, 2013, 03:14 PM
just a ordinairy guy

It seems simpler, but it's not going to work that way, there is not enough travel to open the doors completely across the centerline, the problem with the Bronco XXIII is, they placed the tubes near the centerline, more ideal would be a position against the outer hull parts, i've build it this way at my type VII and type XVIIb, giving me more clearance for the torpedo's, and lesser motion at the doors.
Modyfing the Bronco in such way would create more work than it's worth the time, even when you've done that, you still have to solve the mechanics to open the doors.

May 17, 2013, 01:15 PM
just a ordinairy guy
As a reaction to the remark of Dave (Subdave) i dived into the shop and came out with this solution, pictures

The boat put together without using glue.

To get her apart you start by "breaking" the backbone.

Then you remove the planking from the upperdeck in one move.

I glued down a few stainless steel rods of 1mm underneath, giving more strenght to those planking things, they are really flimsy straight out of the box.

The single one near the tower goes off the same.

Once the planking is gone you can reach the little brass screws which are hidden underneath the planking.
All visible one's will be sealed with filler and can be made free with little effort.

Once the planking is gone i can take of the exhaustcover by unscrewing it, a small brass hook keeps it tight at the hull, used the same method for my conningtower.

Now all components are removed i can start untightening the little brass screws.

Once this is done you can split both halves, you can see the brass lips which keep both halves together.
The only place where i have to cut will be the bow, want to use simple CA to glue it tight, which can be broken open easely without much damage.

Once finished you end up with this pile of styrene, for putting her together follow the reverse order.
I hope this answers your question Dave, for me it's back to the shop for preparing my boats for next Monday, the annual submeet in Holland

May 20, 2013, 07:45 AM
Registered User
DDG 51's Avatar
Is on the market WTC for this size of sub??
May 20, 2013, 08:37 AM
Semi-Official Tinkerer
Subdave's Avatar
I like it.
Very nice job! Dave.
May 20, 2013, 01:28 PM
just a ordinairy guy

You've got a personal message from me.


Your remark about still getting in after completion, stirred the gerbill inside my head, i decided to use little conical screws, when the model is finished i can cover them by using filler, if needed i can scratch away the filler and open up the boat without major damage to the hull.

Jun 04, 2013, 07:58 PM
Semi-Official Tinkerer
Subdave's Avatar
How is your build coming Manfred?
I started my Bronco build on the SC site.
I am using a similar design to your rear assembly.
I really liked that idea. Thanks for the inspiration. Dave.
Jun 05, 2013, 03:09 PM
just a ordinairy guy

I'm working my way at the conningtower, found some nice pics of the XXIII without the standard railings around the tower, the added extra steps into the tower for climbing in.
Since there will be more type XXIII's in the build, i wanted to make mine different, pictures.

Glad you could use my rudder/ propulsion module system, this is the way a forum should work.

Sticked some tape on the tower and started to draw the new floodholes accourding to my pictures, they added some bars inside those holes to replace the railings.
The steps going up the tower are the replacement for the standard ladder on front of the boat.

Those floodholes made by Bronco inside the exhaustcover i've redone to get a better shape, also added the bars for prefenting stuff entering the exhaustcover.

Right now i'm building on the deck, this picture shows the strange railings added to the deck, i was wondering why they added those.

Got my answer on this picture, those rails are part of the system to keep the wooden plank modules at their place when in harbour, notice that there is also planking around the bollards.

Used those plank modules to align the railings on my deck.

Used some H shaped styrene, which allows me to "click" in my modules, since i also need planking around the bollards, i have to scratch me a extra module.

Jun 08, 2013, 08:08 AM
GSMB Member
ken_nj's Avatar
Looking good Manfred. Your very detail oriented. That certainly slows the build down, but as long as it does not matter, the end result will look great!
Jun 09, 2013, 12:44 PM
just a ordinairy guy

It surely slows me down, but when done properly you're boat will be standing out in the crowd, just like you, i like details also, to my opinion they add so much to your boat,
Unlike most people think, there is much more detail present as expected.

I'll also will give you guys a update about my build, made a new planking module from scratch and added the stanchions and needed antennawire,pictures

First i made a copy from the Bronco part, not as good as theirs, but once painted and weathered it will be hard to see.

Also had to make the front planking module removable.

Took some copper rods and replicated the one's Bronco added to the kit, the tricky part was, drilling the 1 mm holes.

Made a little ring on the tower where i can hook up the line.

Dryfitting the line to see where i've had to place the ring on the deck, i always use elastick rubber cord, no springs needed, and easy to replace when needed.

Making the antennawire was a bit of a battle, it took two attempts, but i'm pleased with the result, most work was making the insulators the original way, you have to wrap your wires around both sides on the insulator, a bit tricky and time consuming, i went for the three insulator one, i've also seen pics with four insulators, but this way there will be some lengthy antennawire left.

This is where i stand now, stanchions and antennawire placed, the stanchions are removable, will only be used at the static display.
For now i'm working on the hatch where they storaged their dingy, have to add some more accurate parts.

Jun 17, 2013, 04:32 AM
Registered User
profesorul's Avatar

Not get enough to watch what comes out of your hands ...... watching breathless every post to see what you've done!.


Jun 18, 2013, 11:11 AM
Registered User
Im a chinese,goods seems good, cloud you tell us where you have buy can shipping to foreign?
Jun 18, 2013, 11:30 AM
dusty bible = dirty life
Majortomski's Avatar
MANFRED! you are a true modeling CRAFTSMAN sir! Beautiful work!

fuwen0202 Bronco models, the source of the plastic model IS a Chinese company:
You can buy them at home!
Jun 19, 2013, 02:26 PM
just a ordinairy guy
Thanks Guys,

Made some more progress on this boat, detailed the resqueboat hatch, added some detail to the mainhatch of the tower and made me a resquebouy from scratch, pictures.

This is where i stand now, i'll show you guys some details.

The lockingmechanism is in general the same as they used on their watertight ammo containers, just more beefy.

When you unturn the bolt it's possible to swiffle the lockingbar away, then the hatch can be opened.

The mainhatch on the tower is a bit standard.

Remade the hinges and added some handels, now it's possible to open up the hatch when needed, instead being glued tight open or closed.

Don't know why they didn't add the safetybouy, but i wanted one, most pictures i have showed them on the boats.
Took some 3 mm plexiglass and copper plate to make these items.

Placed at the peroscope protecter, the bouy itself can be taken from the holder when i will drive the boat, at static display it will be added.

Right now i'm working on the snorkeldevice, the guys from Bronco gave me a good start to begin with, i will turn it inside out and give it some working details, be patient.


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
For Sale 32nd PARALLEL TYPE XXIII U-boat kit propofol1965 Boats (FS/W) 8 Feb 02, 2014 02:40 PM
Sold what are these worth??sell or trade(6cell nicads) helizrnew2me Aircraft - Electric - Batteries & Chargers (FS/W) 7 Nov 16, 2012 05:55 PM
Discussion What type of battery connectors are these? qwerty11 Batteries and Chargers 2 Apr 17, 2012 11:10 PM
Special Navy 1/72 Type XXIII redboat219 Submarines 5 Mar 12, 2006 01:12 AM