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Always like a good Cub. I will follow along for this one.
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Thread OP
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Day Two
I spent yesterday removing and sanding all the parts for the fuselage. This took alot longer than I thought, as most of the parts displayed alot of rough edges. I guess the dies were not that sharp when this kit was cut. I probably spent the better part of 3 hours performing this task. Called it a day, so I will start the fuselage assembly tonight after work. I will include some pictures then.
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Last edited by mustangherb; Oct 30, 2012 at 03:45 PM.
Reason: Add picture
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After two larger Cubs - Sig's 1/5th and 1/16th scale kits - a real good idea is to figure out battery access well before you're looking at a built fuselage thinking 'howineck do I get the battery in?' The Sig kits both had working pilot access doors on the right hand side, which when opened, allowed my to access the battery packs. In both sizes, the packs were as far forward in the bottom of the fuselage as they'd go.
Taking the wing off a high winger to fish around for a battery pack in the depths is not a lot of fun on a nice Sunday! The larger Cub is so far back, it had NiMh packs, so I'd usually just recharge the pack in the model - not bright with a LiPo but quite feasible and safe with A123 packs. Suggest a look around - this kit has been electrocuted in the past. Could save you some screaming fits late on a Saturday night ![]() Good luck Dereck |
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Subscribed. Sounds like this will be lots to learn from your approach. If you can squeeze it in, I'd really appreciate hearing how you determined which sanding tools to build and how they're used as you go along.
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Thread OP
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First off I ordered the electric motor box sold by Maxford USA that they use for their L-4 electric conversion. This should work fine for the motor that is in the .40-.60 size electric. Secondly I plan on cutting a rectangular opening at the bottom portion of the firewall (to allow for a portion of the battery to protrude). For battery access I plan to build a hatch into the fuselage front bottom panel. The battery will occupy the space just below where the fuel tank was intended to be. I will enclose pictures when I get to this point. I am leaning toward using a 5S-4000 to 5000 mah battery, as this size should fit the space and hatch size.
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Last edited by mustangherb; Oct 30, 2012 at 12:14 PM.
Reason: More information
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Quote:
![]() ![]() You're not the first nor will you be the last to experience this facet of the hobby. Hopefully as the dies get dull the kit MFG's will convert to laser cut parts. Ken |
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Thread OP
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Day Three
Started on fuselage assembly by trial fitting the "cabin sides" and "cabin doubler" to fuse sides. I took measurements on both fuse sides from wing surface to the bottom in the same point to ensure both sides would be the same. There was some sanding involved to achieve the same dimensions in the previous step. The cabin sides were then glue in place using thin CA and then the cabin & LG doublers were glue in place with Titebond II glue. The glue up was held/pressed in place utilizing to granite blocks. This took about 25-30 minutes per side.
I thought that I should add the build from the UK that gave me alot of my inspiration on this build. http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/...p?th=55984&p=1 Sorry, I had to fix the link! |
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Last edited by mustangherb; Oct 31, 2012 at 11:23 AM.
Reason: Fixed web address
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GB Cubs are great flying airplanes! You're gonna love it! Think ahead about adding a rear strut to the LG. It's a 'weak' point. As designed the gear will gradually splay outward and the wheel axles will torque so that the right wheel turns to the right and the left to the left. You can shorten the ailerons to a scale length without any adverse effects, too.
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I am about 3/4 of the way through the airframe build of my Cub. I have the same annivesary cub. I bought mine back in 1992 as per the AMA application in the box. I have been going through the same sanding nightmare as you. Guess the dies were dull back then to. lol. Altered mine to use a servo in each wing panel. Laid each servo on its side under a hatch to hide it. powering mine with a saito .65 4stroke. still trying to decide on a color scheem.will get my daughter to post a pic if you dont mind.
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Thread OP
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Landing gear and flight controls
I had already decided to do something with the LG, but I have not decided yet which route I am going to take yet. I would like to take the stock LG and improve it and make it look more scale.
As far as the flight controls on the wings, I plan on putting the aileron servos in the wing panels, but I also intend to use the center mounted servo setup to operate the flaps that I also intend to install. I was looking at making the ailerons about 18-1/2" long and the flaps extend from the aileron edge to the inboard aileron stopping point prescribed for the clipped wing. |
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my first kit was the same cub. be sure to check the balsa that the hinges go into. my second flight ended early when the left half of the elevator pulled out of the too-soft balsa and broke off. also, if i had to do over, the aileron servos would go in the wing which it sounds like you are doing.
my kit came with what looks like some mahogany plywood for the fuse that was de-laminating and would not take glue. just some things to check. good luck! |
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