EF Torque 2818T/900 - RC Groups
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Oct 29, 2012, 06:15 PM
Registered User

EF Torque 2818T/900

I did a search on this motor back several years and don't find what I need.

I have a 2818t/900 that I had in an EF Yak 54. The poor Yak got re-kitted and I'm going to use the motor/ESC in another plane from 3DHS. Shaft is straight and true and everythings turns smooth and free.
The EF plane had the motor behind/inside the motor mount box and the 3DHS needs it outside the box. I bought the proper X mount and prop adaptor, BUT I have no clue how to reconfigure the shaft. Since I did not buy this motor new, I have no paperwork/instructions. I am not a new flier, but I am new at reconfiguring motors. I usually buy what I need for a plane, but I do have the correct stuff for this new one, just has the pointy end ( ) of the motor coming out the wrong end!

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Oct 29, 2012, 08:24 PM
jackerbes's Avatar
This Scorpion video covers it nicely:


And the hints here at Maxx products are good too:


If as you slide the shaft forward or turn it around, if you find you do not have a grub screw flat in the right place or a snap ring groove in the right place you can add those your self. And if you ever need to replace a shaft all you need is one that is the right size and at least as long as you, you can always make it work:

Making and Replacing a Brushless Motor Shaft - https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1240725

Oct 29, 2012, 09:04 PM
RIP Azarr - "Old age is not for sissies"
Azarr's Avatar
You shouldn't have to move the shaft at all. If you bought the X mount and bolt on adaptor you just turn the motor around. Just let the shaft protrude through the firewall.


Oct 29, 2012, 10:39 PM
jackerbes's Avatar
He didn't say what type he bought, I just assumed that the prop adapter he mentioned was a collet style and that the shaft needed to be reversed or shifted to accommodate that.

Oct 30, 2012, 09:11 AM
Registered User
The prop adapter is the bolt on type. I need to go look at the whole thing with THAT in mind. I PRESUMED it needed reversed. So much for that, huh? I'll let you know. And many thanks for the links!
Last edited by dkrhardy; Oct 30, 2012 at 09:25 AM.
Oct 30, 2012, 09:24 AM
Registered User
That was it! DOH! All it took was you kind folks telling me to look at it from the correct direction. I don't know why I thought that the silly shaft had to go through from the other direction! All is under control ........ let the building begin!
Thanks again,
Oct 30, 2012, 10:12 AM
jackerbes's Avatar
OK, sometimes the bolt-on prop adapters are not supplied for a motor or they get lost or bent and you can't find replacement that will fit. So the cure for that is to run the shaft out where the adapter used to be and use the collet style adapter that grips the shaft. Or maybe use a prop saver instead of an adapter.

All things considered, and as a guy that prefers using prop savers and does not mind having to change shafts around, I seldom use the bolt on prop adapters. I consider them sort of trouble some because they are easily bent and also harder on props. But that is because of my flying conditions, style, and/or skills.

Oct 30, 2012, 09:56 PM
Registered User
If you mean prop savers like the "o" ring things, I don't think I have ever seen them for higher power motor systems. I don't usually ding props. It is all or nothing.
I have not bent a shaft on motors larger than 450/480 size motors.
I have totally destroyed motors on bigger planes since those have been full bore, straight into the ground, due to dumb thumbs or electronics failures. Gone is gone.
I have this one sorted, thanks to the folks here.
As I said, time for the build to begin!
Oct 30, 2012, 10:19 PM
jackerbes's Avatar
The Thera--Bands are OK at 230-250 Watts and have even been taken higher. No problems at all. Here is an APC 13 X 8 on 90 gram motor.

APC 13x8 on prop saver.mp4 (1 min 33 sec)

There are two bands on that prop, one will keep it on and the second is for some extra security. That is a quiet, well-balanced, prop running on properly installed prop saver. And that was at a bout 200 Watts peak there.

I am smart enough to stay out of the way and keep my fingers out of the action. If the bands both broke simultaneously the prop would walk straight up, slow, and then clatter to the floor.

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