ORX T-Six (OrangeRX Transmitter) - Page 101 - RC Groups
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Jan 10, 2015, 03:28 PM
nob
nob
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by CelloGuy
I just bound a plane to my new T6 for the first time and it wouldn't bind until I turned it on while holding the bind switch. Looks like they might've fixed that up which is interesting. I might see if I can check whether the range check is working now too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by flypaper 2
Yes. If you look at the back of the older trans, for about the first 5 seconds after turning on, you can see a fast flashing red light, just behind the batt compartment, then goes out. That's the bind mode.

Gord.
I have just bought a second hand T6 - the newer version with the 3-position switch. However I am experiencing the same issue as on the older radios. The bind sequence is sent regardless if you hold the bind switch or not. Check out my video where you can clearly see the bind light inside the radio is blinking without touching the bind switch.

T6 binding without bind switch (0 min 7 sec)


I also confirmed this with binding a receiver. It bind regardless if I hold the bind button or not.

Was this corrected later on, after the 3-pos switch was implemented? I have to check with the first owner when did he buy the transmitter, but apparently its new.

BR, Nejc
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Jan 10, 2015, 04:31 PM
"long stretch of water..."
coongoola's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by nob
I have just bought a second hand T6 - the newer version with the 3-position switch. However I am experiencing the same issue as on the older radios. The bind sequence is sent regardless if you hold the bind switch or not. Check out my video where you can clearly see the bind light inside the radio is blinking without touching the bind switch.

I also confirmed this with binding a receiver. It bind regardless if I hold the bind button or not.

Was this corrected later on, after the 3-pos switch was implemented? I have to check with the first owner when did he buy the transmitter, but apparently its new.

BR, Nejc
Hello there,

A couple of points I have learned since buying my older version T-Six with the 2 position flap switch...

When you power on the radio, the small LED on the back of the Tx flashes for 5 seconds when binding, ( Every time) regardless of the bind switch position.

I bought an additional LemonRX to try and had the same issues with binding problems so I contacted the gurus at LemonRx and they suggested connecting the Receiver FIRST, then turn on the radio. Presto, solid light and no more binding problems. That was quite a while back and I've never had a binding issue with Orange or Lemon Rx's since.

Try it and see how you go.

Pat in Oz
Jan 10, 2015, 04:41 PM
Registered User
flypaper 2's Avatar
I don't see a problem with the fact that it does do the bind sequence. I fly with it at our indoor doo with many other radios in use and never had a problem. At least nobody else has squawked. Others are also in use.

Gord.
Jan 10, 2015, 05:28 PM
nob
nob
Registered User
Don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining. I was just a little bit confused about CelloGuy post that this might have been fixed in new version. Seems that it wasn't.

But if I understand this issue correctly, there is very minor chance that I would get problems due to this error. This would happen only if someone would be binding his OrangeRx or Spekturm transmitter to his receiver and I would power up my transmitter at that time and most likely I would bind to it, right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by coongoola
Hello there,
When you power on the radio, the small LED on the back of the Tx flashes for 5 seconds when binding, ( Every time) regardless of the bind switch position.
Don't you risk some "crazy" behavior from the plane if it isn't firstly connected to the transmitter? I'm a coming back to RC flying, but I know I was taught: firstly power up the transmitter, than the model (receiver).

But I must say that at first look and touch I am happy with the transmitter. I was thinking of coloring it black, but in fact now when I got it this translucent orange is really cool. I still have to use it in flight though, I am waiting on my model to arrive.
Jan 10, 2015, 06:22 PM
Registered User
CelloGuy's Avatar
Yeah, sorry, that was my mistake. I had a new plane (UMX Radian that I bought for a mate) that didn't bind the first time without the switch but then did bind when I tried it again with the switch so I thought they might've changed that setting but in fact it was just the plane having difficulty taking the bind. I've since bound it to a number of planes and there is no need for the switch - like the earlier models it sends a bind signal each time you turn it on. Unlikely to be a problem for me as it's rare for people to bind at the field that I fly at but I'm sure it's a mistake in the firmware - the bind switch is superfluous which can't be deliberate.

When you're binding you need to turn the rx on first (in bind mode which for most rx's means turning it on with a bind plug in) but once you've bound the tx and rx the usual thing is to turn the tx on first then the rx and when you're done unplug the battery on the plane before turning off the tx. Turning them on in the wrong order shouldn't cause any problems (unless you have one of those planes that doesn't need a bind plug but goes into bind mode automatically if it can't find the right tx signal such as the UMX series) but if you turn the tx off first it can make the plane go into a failsafe mode and that can mean that the motor suddenly comes on. I've had that happen myself where I hadn't set up the failsafe properly and a mate of mine has a scar on his leg where it happened to him with a Rarebear. To avoid that happening make sure that you don't calibrate the throttle setting on the ESC with the bind plug in - bind the tx/rx first (with throttle at zero), pull out the bind plug, turn them both off, and then do the calibration.
Jan 10, 2015, 06:41 PM
Registered User
flypaper 2's Avatar
You should also put the throttle trim to bottom also. If you don't and shut the trans off, or lose signal the motor can go to fast idle.
This is OK for the glow guys as it means the engine will stay at idle speed.

Gord.
Jan 10, 2015, 08:03 PM
Registered User
CelloGuy's Avatar
Gord, isn't that only necessary for certain ESCs? I haven't needed to do it for any of mine but I have heard about people needing to, mainly to get the ESC to arm on connection. Mine will all arm on zero throttle with neutral trim.
Jan 10, 2015, 09:01 PM
Registered User
flypaper 2's Avatar
That's true about arming, where lowering it doesn't need to be done. This is for the safety factor of having the motor start up if you accidentally shut the trans. off. Hang on to the plane with the batt plugged in and shut the trans. off. If the motor doesn't start you're good to go.

Gord.
Jan 17, 2015, 06:17 PM
Registered User

replacement flap switch?


I need to replace the two position flap switch on my T6.
Can I use a 3 position switch like on the newer T6?
Is either one available from Hobby King or where can I get
either one?
Feb 03, 2015, 05:51 PM
Registered User

guess I have an orphin tx


Quote:
Originally Posted by mgdon
I need to replace the two position flap switch on my T6.
Can I use a 3 position switch like on the newer T6?
Is either one available from Hobby King or where can I get
either one?
i can't believe Hobby King does not provide any kind of service on these or anything I guess.
you pay for what you get i gess
Feb 03, 2015, 09:23 PM
Registered User
Has anyone had an issue where the T-Six shows F.Mode when turned on. How do you fix this?
Feb 04, 2015, 01:02 AM
Registered User
CelloGuy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by mgdon
I need to replace the two position flap switch on my T6.
Can I use a 3 position switch like on the newer T6?
Is either one available from Hobby King or where can I get
either one?
You can't put a 3 position switch on the T6 version that comes with a 2 position switch because you wouldn't be able to program it with the software that's in that unit and the software can't be updated in this radio. At the price they sell it at I wouldn't expect it to be upgradeable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mgdon
i can't believe Hobby King does not provide any kind of service on these or anything I guess.
you pay for what you get i gess
HK service used to be really bad but is now really good. I had a minor issue with the latest T6 I bought and they replaced it. Didn't even want the old one returned. That's good service. They seem to have made a decision to improve their service some time last year and it is way better. And you're right about getting what you pay for - considering that they would need to change software that isn't designed to be changed in order to help you change to a 3-pos switch I think that's way beyond what you can expect for a radio with this price. For the price this radio is awesome.

Quote:
Originally Posted by knewsom
Has anyone had an issue where the T-Six shows F.Mode when turned on. How do you fix this?
That warning is mentioned on page 6 of the manual. I've never had it come up and haven't read up on it but I think it's something to do with one of the heli modes and is warning you that a switch might be in the wrong position.
Feb 04, 2015, 07:42 AM
Retired in NC
Rich in ILM's Avatar
AFAIK they never have fixed the range check. In other words range check DOES NOT reduce the transmit power. Which means you have no range check. Anybody know for sure in the new generation with the three position flap switch? My Spektrum shows a 30 db drop in transmitter output when in range check. I never would have bought the orange if I had known that! Just don't know if it is still a problem on the second generation units.
Feb 04, 2015, 04:46 PM
Registered User
As I said in my post I need to FIX OR replace my flap switch.
a 3 position switch would be nice but mostly I just want it fixed.
I will give them 1 more try.
Feb 04, 2015, 06:00 PM
"long stretch of water..."
coongoola's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by mgdon
As I said in my post I need to FIX OR replace my flap switch.
a 3 position switch would be nice but mostly I just want it fixed.
I will give them 1 more try.
I dropped my TSix on the concrete floor in the workshop and snapped the levers off the trainer switch and flap switch. I bought new ones from HK international site and they were quite cheap. I bought ones to suit a Taranis but they fit well and do the job. Cost about $4.00 for two switches from memory but took 3 weeks to arrive.

Pat in Oz


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