Durafly AUTO-G Gyrocopter - Page 166 - RC Groups
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Mar 08, 2017, 11:49 AM
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Blade holder modifications


This is how I did with mine, which allows lead/lag and "may" save the holder in case of blade strike.
And the blades can be folded for transportation too.
Last edited by tanasit; Mar 08, 2017 at 03:12 PM.
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Mar 08, 2017, 05:13 PM
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britinoz's Avatar
Good idea...that should work OK...
Mar 14, 2017, 03:57 PM
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roidspop's Avatar
I've been flying the G2 for a couple of years now and have had my shares of crashes and other unexpected arrivals. That's part of the game!

More often than not these have occurred during takeoff...low rotor speed and premature liftoff. When it was working properly, the prerotator generally got the gyro into the air in good shape, but we've all seen what happens to the original flex drive...it turns into a tangle of raveled wire that's pretty much useless.

I've been working on an alternative to the Durafly drive and this is what I've come up with. This current version has been through about forty flights so far and is performing very well (knock on wood!) . I'll skip all the details and just give the gist of the thing. There are three sections to the shaft; the long part is a small hardwood dowel. The two stub shafts installed in the drive section and rotor head have taken several different forms, but the main thing is that the section that goes into the fitting needs to be a snug fit, have a flat for the set screw to engage with, and should be made of steel, nothing else. The sections are joined together by flex couplings made of silicone fuel tubing. As simple as that is it has worked astoundingly well.

I'm not going to attempt to tell you exactly how to make one of these but will be happy to supply more info if anyone requests it. I will say that there's no way of telling how long the drive will last, but so far, it has lasted longer than the original and it is EASY to repair or replace.
Mar 14, 2017, 05:07 PM
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Sammy70's Avatar
Nice job on the new drive shaft setup
Mar 14, 2017, 09:33 PM
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Loctite 603 for the pre-rotator drive flex shaft


Quote:
Originally Posted by roidspop
I've been flying the G2 for a couple of years now and have had my shares of crashes and other unexpected arrivals. That's part of the game!

More often than not these have occurred during takeoff...low rotor speed and premature liftoff. When it was working properly, the prerotator generally got the gyro into the air in good shape, but we've all seen what happens to the original flex drive...it turns into a tangle of raveled wire that's pretty much useless.


I'm not going to attempt to tell you exactly how to make one of these but will be happy to supply more info if anyone requests it. I will say that there's no way of telling how long the drive will last, but so far, it has lasted longer than the original and it is EASY to repair or replace.
Good idea!

I've been using the LOCTITE 603 - Retaining Compound for all of my flex drive fast speed boats with great result. At first I didn't believe that this Loctite 603 will hold the flex drive cable into the drive shaft better that the old silver solder method.
I did the same to my Auto G2 pre-rotator drive shaft, so far so good.

How to use LOCTITE 603 - Retaining Compound (1 min 56 sec)


Note: you have to let it cure overnight though. In case of my Auto G2, no disassemble required.
Last edited by tanasit; Mar 15, 2017 at 05:35 PM.
Mar 15, 2017, 11:49 AM
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roidspop's Avatar
This looks like a really good thing to do to a new flex cable before it's had a chance to be wrecked the way they usually are. Do you have to remove the cable from the couplings before treating it? Do you just put the loctite on the ends and if so, how long a section do you treat?
Mar 15, 2017, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roidspop
This looks like a really good thing to do to a new flex cable before it's had a chance to be wrecked the way they usually are. Do you have to remove the cable from the couplings before treating it? Do you just put the loctite on the ends and if so, how long a section do you treat?
See "note" under the picture, which says,............no disassemble required.

I put the Loctite 603 directly to the flex cable just next to the coupler making sure not too much or it will overflow.
1. With the Auto G2 right side up, gently put as less as possible to the "base" of the flex shaft where it goes into the coupler, then wait a few minutes and see if found it way inside then you may add a little more. You should let it sit several hours.
2. Turn the G2 upside down, and do the same for the other end. You can use a tooth pick here because it is somewhat way inside the wooden frame, just applt the Loctite to the end of the tooth pick then apply accordingly.
3. let it sit overnight to fully cure.

You may also want to check if the grub screws are fully tighten onto the flex shaft, if not once you loosen the screws you should put a little blue Loctite 242 before putting them back on.
Last edited by tanasit; Mar 15, 2017 at 06:00 PM.
Mar 15, 2017, 09:22 PM
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roidspop's Avatar
Makes perfect sense. Anybody who's buying a new G2 (or a Super G) should do this before they ever fly it. If they've already wrecked their flex shaft, then maybe they should try building one along the lines I suggested up there.
Jun 28, 2017, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer
Yes, but how much depends on what you use as a datum. Relative to the flat bottom of the blade the wedge installed under the blade gives about 3.5 to 4 degrees negative. Relative to the chord line of the blade airfoil (which is what incidence is usually measured from) it's about 1.5 - 2 deg negative.
So the auto g2 blades do have negative pitch?
Jun 29, 2017, 12:46 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantaloupeman
So the auto g2 blades do have negative pitch?
Have a look at question 19) here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ns-and-Answers


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