scratchbuilt RC hovercraft - Page 2 - RC Groups
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Jan 25, 2013, 06:31 AM
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Mike Meyer's Avatar
What material did you use for the skirt?

I discovered my old (as in, the son that was born when I was using it is now in college) Tyco Typhoon, which I sett aside when the skirt ripped. I'm thinking about "renovating" it (2.4Ghz rx, new motors & esc, etc), but first I have to figure out if I can replace the skirt.
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Jan 26, 2013, 10:20 AM
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I used some kite fabric because it is very lightweight but very strong.
It should be perfectly possible to rebuilt the skirt but the hardest is to get the right pattern for your hovercraft. You might want to try to use the old one as your pattern for making the new one.
Feb 16, 2013, 06:41 PM
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Miskatonic's Avatar
You could also use rip stop nylon for the skirt, which is basically the same thing. They sell it at fabric stores. Speaking of that, I have to repair the skirt on my UHM-30. I wish I built a model with a dedicated lift only motor since I don't always want to come to a screeching halt every time I cut the throttle. Plus water evacuation is a big concern when the motor shuts off. Blipping the throttle on mine helps to tilt the nose up and shoots the water out of two small holes in the rear of the skirt.

Rian, how do you control the speed of the lift motor? Nice ductwork, btw. You may also want to consider a 3-bladed prop for the lift motor. I found that it helps "charge" more air into the duct because you have less space between your prop disc which seems to "seal" the duct better.
Last edited by Miskatonic; Feb 16, 2013 at 06:51 PM.
Feb 19, 2013, 11:07 AM
Registered User
Thanks

I plugged the lift motor into the throttle channel because I wanted to be able to just give some throttle and then focus on the steering. The thrust engine is plugged into the elevator channel and then I did some mixing. The only problem is that i can't get more than 50 percent thrust or I have to flip a switch but then you constantly have to push the right stick down if you don't want thrust.

Good idea, I might try that later when I bought a three bladed prop. If I would make a new hovercraft I would certainly make the duct as small as possible because of the same reason. But the thrust motor is very light, so I just have to apply 1/3 throttle to lift it.
Feb 28, 2013, 07:47 PM
TheyreComingToTakeMeAway!
derk's Avatar
on a hovercraft i built a while back, i modded the transmitter (cheap walkera heli) so that it had 2 throttle sticks it worked fine for me
Jun 02, 2013, 05:26 AM
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I already thought about that but I don't want to ruin my spektrum transmitter

I'm still having trouble with the steering, is there anyone out there that knows how I could solve this problem?
Jun 03, 2013, 02:15 AM
MHA webmaster
In post 19, you say you did some mixing; what exactly is the mixing setup? I would have thought that the thrust fan could be controlled with the elevator channel entirely separately. What I have seen some folks do if you don't want to open up the Tx is to hook an elastic band over the aerial, behind the back of the tx under and up over the stick to hold it in the down position. A bit crude but it seems to work.
Jun 03, 2013, 06:25 AM
Registered User
Try reducing the size of the rear fins or even remove them completely and adjust the control linkages for maximum movement of the rudders.
As for the throttle problem you may need to use another esc with programmable throttle range, this would allow 100% throttle from the centre stick pos. I use a turnigy car esc with reverse which works well as it is designed for neutral at centre stick pos. pk
Jun 03, 2013, 04:23 PM
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jpcwebb, I mixed the elevator and flaps channel and then I set the flap rate for normal to 50 percent I think. So in normal i've got max 50% throttle with the stick centered and when I flip it I've got 100% throttle but the stick has to be all the way down if I want to stop. The throttle is controlled separately this way. I might try the rubber band trick

windnsea, If I remove the rear fins, how am I supposed to steer? I'm sorry, I just seem to not fully understand... I've seen some other people use a car esc and it does seem to work perfectly but I'm just sixteen years old and I don't have a lot of money to invest so... But thanks for the advice I'll try to modify my fins.
Jun 03, 2013, 08:25 PM
Registered User
sorry to confuse you, - I only meant remove the fixed fins not the rudders��
Jun 04, 2013, 10:51 AM
Registered User
Ohh thanks, I already thought about that. I might just make a new, round duct with fins that don't have the fixed rudder part.
Jun 05, 2013, 05:27 AM
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Here is a pic of one of my models using an edf unit connected directly to a servo. Gives great steering response but you need to use a ballbearing servo to take the thrust loading.
Theres plenty of cheap and reasonable quality edf units and parts at hobbyking if you want to try something similar.
Jun 06, 2013, 02:54 AM
MHA webmaster
How about simply extending the rudders? Some folks in the MHA who had problems with a scale BH7 model added transparent plastic extension pieces onto the trailing edges of the rudders to give greater control. Seemed to help.
Jun 06, 2013, 08:17 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpcwebb
How about simply extending the rudders? Some folks in the MHA who had problems with a scale BH7 model added transparent plastic extension pieces onto the trailing edges of the rudders to give greater control. Seemed to help.
Yep, that probably is a better solution. The problem is that once it gets up to speed, the rudders almost don't have any effect. It doesn't really matter because I like cruising with it anyway. It just turn the moment I want it to .

Windnsea, good job on that hovercraft , but I want to make it work with these motor and prop. I will design an edf model in the future though and then I can mount the edf onto a servo.


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