Sterling Stinson Reliant 57 inch version - Page 7 - RC Groups
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Jan 27, 2013, 04:15 PM
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That is great news about the mount! Let me know whether you would like me to paypal you your quoted estimate or hold off until you get a final total. Again, I really appreciate it. And no huge rush. If you can't get it sent tomorrow, any time is fine. I have enough other tasks to work on.

And thanks for the picture of your build! The wing looks great. I see you did the same thing that I did with the leading edge. The plans are not very clear, but they look like there is no need to add an extra leading edge (the sheeting around the leading edge would be fine). But a picture of the plane framed up on the plans make it look like a seperate leading edge is added after sheeting. I added the extra leading edge to ensure an even LE and give enough meat to sand/shape.

Looks fantastic!
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Jan 27, 2013, 06:24 PM
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amilcar's Avatar
yes i did,i sand the leading edge and then the sheeting on top ,,,the result will be the same ,,in fact you are not changing the shape of the airfold so it's ok ,,,like i said i have to sand all that out ,,also i replaced the spars with brasswood,,,i'll take a picture of that,,,i had bad experiences with balsa spars ,,, ...
wait for the money like i said i don't know how much it will be ,,,but im sure that not more than $10 bucks ,,,you can do paypal's ok ,,,we'll see later ,,,don't worry ,,
Last edited by amilcar; Jan 27, 2013 at 07:53 PM.
Jan 27, 2013, 08:30 PM
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Still lurking... Keep at it!
Jan 27, 2013, 09:19 PM
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100 days into the build! I am not able to work on it as often as I would like, but work should slow down any week now, giving me more time to finish it. I have a similarly sized Rearwin Speedster (also an older kit, the Tower reciept in the box is dated 1987) that I want to get to before flying weather.

I will have a more complete summary tomorrow, but I had another frustrating day. I was installing the fuel tank and decided to test it pressurized. It sprung a leak at very low pressure. I started trying to resolder it, the plastic started warping and blistering. I thought I had it fixed, tried testing it again, and another leak broke open.

I threw together a regular 12 oz sullivan and worked on getting it to fit without sticking too much out in the cabin. I managed to get it to fit with it sticking only about 3/8ths of an inch above the floor, and about 2 inches into the cabin. I think I can live with that!

Now I need to install the tank and re-design the cabin floor. I touched up the fuel proofing and decided to call it a night. It is very cold in the basement

I hope to have the tank installed, the floor rebuilt, the rest of the fuse sheeted, and the cabin walls installed by this weekend. I will then be ready to start detailing the cabin.

A couple things for anyone building this would be best to figure out your fuel tank choice before putting the stringers on the fuse. Also, do yourself a favor and install the throttle linkage while building the bulkheads of the fuse. This of course requires that you know what engine you will use I made that call late in the game...

Pictures uploaded tomorrow!
Jan 28, 2013, 09:34 PM
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amilcar's Avatar
it's ok ,,,im glad that you will be able to use it ,,,like i said im not goin to use it ,,in these pics ,,,at first i was goin to use the g-mark radial ,,look really cool and fits perfect,perfect problem its a 0.30 like not even close to a 40 2 strokes i don't think that will have enougth power ,,,the wankel instead fits really nice i have to add 1/2 inch on the firewall and i think i would be ok ,,,the power is not a poblem with it ,,,today i got one aleron done ,,a lot of sanding now the other one and im almost done with the wing
Last edited by amilcar; Jan 28, 2013 at 09:41 PM.
Jan 28, 2013, 10:28 PM
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You have some nice engines. And it is nice that they will both fit so well. I had to cut three of the dummy radials in the cowl out to make room for the carb on mine.

Today was no good. We had a pretty bad ice storm last night. Although work was postponed until 1:00, we needed to clear the driveway to take the wife to a doctors visit. I didn't get to work until almost 4:00 and there was no time to upload pics.

Amilcar...thanks for the pictures. I noticed something about the aileron/control linkage. Have you installed the servo yet? With mine, as the plans would have you do it, the rib where the cable comes out and connects to the aileron horn actually gets in the way of the cable moving its full movement. I might not have posted the pics yet, but I had to enlarge the hole in that rib (both ribs on both wings) to let full movement. Maybe you won't see this in your plane, but it was a big problem with mine!
Jan 28, 2013, 10:32 PM
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Actually, I took a closer look at your pictures. You may not have the problem I had. I used flex cables for the ailerons. Much thicker that the wire the kit calls for (and you used). I wanted to hide my servo in the wing, so I had to go the flex route! Also, by using the flex cables, I neede to build more bracing to prevent binding...
Jan 28, 2013, 11:21 PM
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amilcar's Avatar
i did not installed the servo yet, im goin to do it as soon as i finish the other aleron ,,,i use the rods that came with the kit ,like you said my aleron control moves with no problems full from side to side,(see pic )
in the center plywood piece #80 i will install the servo as you see it in the picture ,im using one standard futaba servo it's almost flush with the rest im thinking on cut a litle the #80 ply piece around the servo to make the servo go down a litle more this way i can place a 1/32 ply cover on top and it will be flush with the rest ,,if everthing goes acording to plans you won't see that the servo is there,,,i could not find good pics of the interior to reproduce it ,,,
im not sure yet if i would detail the interior or not ,it can take more time than ,building the all plane,i'll see as i progress with the build ,,,the idea is in my head
Last edited by amilcar; Jan 28, 2013 at 11:29 PM.
Jan 28, 2013, 11:29 PM
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Very nice. That is pretty much what I did with my servo, although I left the servo arm open in the wing in case I need to make adjustments. You can't see it when the wing is mounted. I also cut into #80 in the shape of the servo so it would sit deeper.

Maybe in retrospect I should have just used the rods that came with the kit, but I love the flex cables!

There are tons of cabin pics of this plane on the web if you decide to go that way...
Jan 29, 2013, 12:38 AM
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amilcar's Avatar
yes that's rigth i just check your pics with the aleron servo,im goin to use flex for the fuse because im planning on installing the rudder and elevator servos closer to the front firewall,,,i just download a few interior pics in thinking about it ,,,a lot of ideas
Last edited by amilcar; Jan 29, 2013 at 09:16 PM.
Jan 29, 2013, 03:46 PM
Registered User here is the full update!

After looking into different engines as well as the amount of space I have, I went with my Evo .52 NX. I really wanted to use a 4 stroke, but the cowl would have been non-existant on one side. Even with the evo, I will have to cut more into it than I would like. But the .52 is the size and weight of a .46, and when tuned correctly, supposedly can put out the power of a .60. We will see.

The plans show a .40 installed and it is pretty tight. Size really does matter with this plane!

Because of how tight the space is in the cowl, I am unable to use my Great Planes engine mount I normally love using those as they are so easy to use, instal, and no tapping required. I could not use it because it is too thick at the firewall and the mounting arms are too long. I thought about hogging it out and trying to make it fit, but I figured that would only make it weaker.

As you guys know, I ended up messing up the stock mount, but Amilcar has come to the rescue!

I also worked on the struts, sanded, finished the radio installation, and fuel proofed.

I use dope which is colored. I do this so that I know what I have fuel proofed and how much I used. It makes a mess, but it all gets covered up in the end. I doped one side of the sheeting that I have yet to install (once the tank is installed).

Some people don't fuel proof at all I tend to over-fuel proof. The only downside to over fuel proofing is that it adds weight; and dope is heavy.

Here are some pictures with some comments...
Jan 29, 2013, 04:05 PM
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That is a good idea. The wood for the pushrods provided in my kit was very brittle. I ended up using different wood.

Originally Posted by amilcar
yes that's rigth i just check your pics with the aleron servo,im goin to use flex for the fuse because im planning on installing the rudder and elevator servos more closer to the front ,,,i just download a few interior pics in thinking about it ,,,a lot of ideas
Jan 29, 2013, 09:35 PM
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amilcar's Avatar
looks really cool ,,,its almost there ,,,me im goin to cut all the radial cylinders out because the engine will need some cooling ,,i read about the wankel getting really hot in close spaces so that's it im goin to have to cut ,,,anyway for static display i can allways put them on ,,,your looks really neat ,,im sure you spend some time cutting between all those cylinders
if you have to fill some gaps or work some details between the union of plastic parts ,,you can use ,plastic model putty works great ,and easy to sand .and ligth weigth.i use it before in a sig ryan i build for a friend that kit has a lot of plastic parts ..all over... thanks for the pics ,,is looking great ...
Jan 30, 2013, 11:47 AM
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Thanks! I am getting to that point in the build where I become less inspired. I love the process of framing a plane up.

But I will finish this!

I am hopeful that my engine will have enough breathing space. Not only did I cut out three of the dummy radials, I cut the space between the others, I will also mount the cowl as indicated on the plans (with a little space between it and the fuse), and I will also build a vent on the bottom just like in the full scale version.

I will need to do something about smoothing the space between the plastic and balsa on the fuse (for the landing gear). I always thought automotive putty works well for that? I will look into the plastic putty. I also will need to fill in some plastic when I do a final mount of the landing gear fairings. The wing struts are ultimately soldered to the landing gear. So a slit will need to be cut in the fairings in order to get them back on.

Something to deal with later...

I also have a Sig Ryan in my stash of kits! I really want to build it soon, but I was hoping to go back to something big after the Rearwin Speedster. Time will tell...

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