Top Flite Spitfire Electric Conversion - Page 3 - RC Groups
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Nov 30, 2012, 03:47 AM
Registered User
...oh, and did you notice the rudder shape on the Grey Nurse Spits (Mk VIII) is different from that in the kit (Mk IX)?
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Nov 30, 2012, 03:46 PM
Registered User
Originally Posted by jdlfreedom
Got the some work time on the spitfire today. Really liking this kit building thing! Lots of sanding tho. My little dermal works like a charm. My elbows would be sore without it!

Got some more power system planning done as well.
would love some feedback on the ideas about it.

e flite power 90
great planes extra large motor mount
c.c 100amp esc
6s lipo pac... around 5-6000mah?
16x8 apc prop

P.s Its not a race! lol I just have the winter off and need something to do!
Power system seems a little weak for a 10lb 60size warbird. I get 35amps/800watts from this.

Just my opinion, I think the Power90 is more of a 8s motor. Could prop up If you find it too weak.
Dec 02, 2012, 04:33 PM
Registered User
Some issues Re discrepancies between the plans and instructions, really important to read this JDL.
Last edited by Ortho10; Dec 03, 2012 at 03:14 AM. Reason: Grammar
Dec 03, 2012, 05:11 PM
Registered User
jdlfreedom's Avatar
making progress! Got the wing halves and the center section done. Going to pick up a flap servo and then sheet the centre today.

I do know they are different rudders. Still have not settled on a paint job. Just tossing ideas around. Thanks for the heads up that! I read that thread and adding the notes to my manual!

Good find for sure. I was doing some number crunching and came up with the calculations in the photo. I feel this will fly the spitfire fairly well. With the option to move up to 8s if its to weak.

Dec 04, 2012, 12:58 PM
Rangers Lead the Way
I'm attaching the below to provide an example of the type of modifications and power installation needed to achieve CG on a Spitfire - this one is a World Models 63" ARF, slightly lighter than the TF and a true .60 plane, but the airframe geometry is the same, and you will probably have to plan something similar on the TF to get CG without adding dead weight to the nose. I built the tail very light with carbon pushrods and fixed tail wheel. I CG'd this at 25% root chord and it flies great there - very stable and straight ahead mush on stalls. Power system is a 6S 5000, Turnigy plush 60 ESC, and Eflite Power 60. As you can see, the battery is entirely inside the cowl. I made a hatch so it can go in from above.

I use a 14x14 pattern prop. This setup flies this 8.25 plane very fast - 90+ on level passes, with unlimited vertical as well. These are slippery airframes.
Last edited by TTRotary; Dec 04, 2012 at 01:07 PM.
Dec 15, 2012, 07:02 PM
Registered User
Still working on the Spitfire, wings go together pretty quickly(so far).
Am liking the setup TTRotary, I'm going to do something very similar, but going to try and make a hatch in the cowl, thats the plan at the moment, but it may change when I see the size of the battery.
Have now ordered some Oleos and wheels, hope they fit the retract's.
As you can see from the seasonal pic's I'm working on the floor in the lounge.
Far from ideal but it does keep the wife happy!
Dec 17, 2012, 08:13 AM
Registered User
Some more good info on battery placement options, again not a TF Spit.
Dec 18, 2012, 03:32 PM
Registered User
Can anyone recommend a good scale spinner for this model?
Dec 23, 2012, 06:15 AM
Registered User
Two wing panels half done, on to the centre section.
Oleos and wheels under the tree, and if I've been really good hopefully some servo's!
Dec 24, 2012, 02:48 PM
Registered User
Cant resist a dry fitting, models always appear bigger in the house than at the field!
Run into a bit of a snag, the leading edges are missing from the kit, I know I should have run through the parts list.
Have got back to the suppliers, and they're going to get in touch with the UK importer (Ripmax).
The leading edges are pre shaped, so the wings will have to wait.
On with the Fuselage!
Merry Christmas.
Dec 28, 2012, 06:05 PM
Registered User
i used wing span retracts on my .60 size corsair and love them they r beefy.better to wait for funds than wait to rebuild after a failed landing;just my two cents
Jan 04, 2013, 04:37 PM
Registered User
Got plenty of work done over the Holidays,
I knew that the sheeting was going to be the hardest part of this kit, and she faught me all the way.
I decided to dampen the balsa sheeting before applying, to soften.
This worked fine, but come the morning after the balsa had dried, the fuse was perfectly flat to the board either end with a horrible bow in the middle.
The distortion was so great the pins had been pulled from the board.
On went the kettle and with re dampened balsa and three of the wife's heaviest cookery books balancing on top, I can now report all warpage has now been sorted.
Jan 06, 2013, 09:15 PM
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rcmorrow's Avatar
As far as various marks of the spitfire and color schemes go there are several publications that have excellent information that may be of help. For a variety of color schems of the Mk. V spits take a look at:

Osprey Aircratf of the Aces #16: Spitfire Mark V Aces 1941-1945 by Dr. Alfred Price

For later Mk. spits take a look at:

Osprey Aircraft of the Aces #5: Late Marque Spitfire Aces 1942-1945 by Dr. Alfred Price

These are both very good and have a wealth of information. Also look at Squadron/Signals publication Aircraft #39 Spitfire in Action.

In reviewing these publications I did not see any of the examples with Canadian markings as shown in one of your previous entry pictures. It may well be from an actaul aircraft, but you will probably have to do some research to find that particular aircraft and see the complete markings and color scheme.

As far as details of the Mk. 9 and Mk 14 (Mk. IX or Mk. XIV) see the work of Paul Monfronton from Canada. He has taken details for years and published a book on this particular mark spit and the information is very reliable. This would help with any detailing that you may be interested in.

Also there are a few other sites to take a look at for details. Look up builds on the Brian Taylor 83" spit and it should take you to a variety of sites and images to also give ideas.

I have the Top Flite Spitfire Mk. IX also that I will be starting this year, along with a Pica 1/5 scale and also have the Brian Taylor spit plans and lasercut parts on the way. All will be electric power.

My plan is to complete the Top Flite kit first, working through the general build and sorting out the electric conversion as well as scale detailing and finishing within reason so as not to make the aircraft too heavy for good flying.

Ulitimately I will build the Pica or the Brian Taylor after that and spend quite a bit of time on the build and scale detailing as well as scale finish and weathering.

Should be interesting to see how yours come out. The thread is wonderful so far. Hope any of the information I have given may be of help with your builds.

Jan 07, 2013, 08:49 AM
Registered User
Thank's for all the info Bob.
I posted an image of Spitfire PV270 earlier in the thread, this Spitfire has recently undergone restoration in New Zealand and there are some fantastic images available. This will probably be the one I go for.
It also seems that the tail wheel doesn't retract which is a bonus!
I'm sure your following Gree's thread on the Top Flite P47 Conversion, and I'm hoping to draw some inspiration from his fantastic model.
Jdlfreedom has been a bit quiet of late, probably busy glassing his model!
Hopefuly he will post some images soon.
Here is a book that i'm not recommending!!
Last edited by Ortho10; Jan 07, 2013 at 09:00 AM. Reason: adding link
Jan 08, 2013, 08:26 PM
Rangers Lead the Way
Originally Posted by Ortho10
Got plenty of work done over the Holidays,
I knew that the sheeting was going to be the hardest part of this kit, and she faught me all the way. IOn went the kettle and with re dampened balsa and three of the wife's heaviest cookery books balancing on top, I can now report all warpage has now been sorted.
Ortho - recommend you use denatured alky instead for several reasons. First, you can set the contour quickly as the alky will flex the wood like water, but will dry quickly, so you get no warping. Second, you know with alky there is no residual moisture left in the wood when the alky has evaporated, which (3) ensures your wood is dry before gluing, which is essential. You can tack up the piece with CA so it keeps the shape as the alky dries.

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