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Oct 17, 2012, 09:43 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim2
Jabram,

Great idea to set up a second thread!

One question, you talk about setting up GPS for 5hz update. I thought the MKT works at 10hz. Does it make a difference?

Thanks ... Tim
Simple answer is I don't know if it makes much difference, I suggested the solution in my first post to save all the hassles of what baud rate is the MTK3329 set to out of the box which a lot of people struggle with.

If you want to fiddle, the MiniGPS tool can be found here
http://code.google.com/p/ardupilot/d...s.zip&can=2&q=

That is what /J did according to his earlier post in this thread
Quote:
Edit: Looks like it was as simple as changing to 10Hz in the MiniGPS tool, and use NMEA in APM_Config
The MTK3329 can work at many different baud rates and update rates so long as the setting you select match your selections in the MP NG code it will work..
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Oct 17, 2012, 09:57 PM
Registered User
Tim2's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jabram
Simple answer is I don't know if it makes much difference, I suggested the solution in my first post to save all the hassles of what baud rate is the MTK3329 set to out of the box which a lot of people struggle with.

If you want to fiddle, the MiniGPS tool can be found here
http://code.google.com/p/ardupilot/d...s.zip&can=2&q=

That is what /J did according to his earlier post in this thread


The MTK3329 can work at many different baud rates and update rates so long as the setting you select match your selections in the MP NG code it will work..
Thanks jabram.

I had already flashed my GPS to 115200 10hz. From your post I wasn't sure if it had to be at 5hz so I just wanted to be sure. I will leave it at 10hz for now.

Tim
Oct 19, 2012, 10:59 AM
Registered User
Akcopter's Avatar
Great work Jabram...you the Man..Subscribed
Oct 19, 2012, 11:39 AM
Done Posting, Gone Flying
JNJO's Avatar
Hehe, just got my sonar to work.
It's an SRF05. Selected the default type in APM, D9 to Trig and D10 to Echo.

Now....If only the 3DR could be as co-operative.....

/J
Oct 19, 2012, 06:32 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNJO
Hehe, just got my sonar to work.
It's an SRF05. Selected the default type in APM, D9 to Trig and D10 to Echo.

Now....If only the 3DR could be as co-operative.....

/J
What issues are you having with 3DR ?
Oct 20, 2012, 03:03 AM
Done Posting, Gone Flying
JNJO's Avatar
@jabram.
No heartbeat. But I ran a link between two ports on a laptop and that worked fine, so I'm thinking that the radios are good and set up right.
My initial problem was that I selected the wrong port when uploading firmware to the flight radio, so I actually uploaded to the ground station.... twice.

I also discovered in the process that I only have 3.8V on the 5V, and 2.7V on the 3.3V port pins on the board, which might explain why it's not working with the board, so that's on top of things to fix. Guess I toasted a diode at some point.

Edit: Or not. Can I trouble one of you guys to measure the voltage on the 5V and 3.3V I2C-ports with no USB connected. Also, is your VBUS diode lit when USB is disconnected. As soon as I connect my USB the voltages are correct.

TIA
/J
Last edited by JNJO; Oct 20, 2012 at 05:06 AM.
Oct 20, 2012, 08:03 AM
Registered User
I am powering my HK Mega board from an adjustable power supply connected to J10 - D46, edge of board is GND, next pin away from board edge is positive supply input in my case..

With 5V input, 5V=3.91, 3.3V=2.83

With 6V input, 5V=4.88, 3.3V=3.33

With USB disconnected VBUS LED is OFF, 5V LED ON RED, LED2 BLINK, LED3 BLUE. LED4 OFF.

Quit worrying the low voltages are normal, Low Drop Out [LDO] voltage regulators are used which explain the drop, the slightly lower voltage does not affect any of the sensors or GPS or ATmega2560 as they are all rated below those voltages.

If you want exactly 5V and exactly 3.3 volts then power it with 5V input at the 5V pin on J2

Uploading twice to either 3DRadio station does not cause any permanent problems.

The 3DRadio, try this - power the HK Mega board up with the 3DR radio NOT plugged in, once LED on HK Mega blinking - then plug 3DRadio in, then try to connect, if that works the issue is handshaking CTS and RTS on the 3DRadio.

are you sure you have the correct COM Port and Baud rate ?

Try these setting for 3DRadio
Last edited by jabram; Oct 20, 2012 at 09:01 AM.
Oct 20, 2012, 09:46 AM
Done Posting, Gone Flying
JNJO's Avatar
@jabram
Tnx. Fantastic info. You confirmed what I suspected, that all is good with my power.
I got the radio to work following your suggestions. Turned out to be a mismatch between the baudrates. To much fiddling late at night.....

Hope we get to fly these bords again soon.

/J
Oct 20, 2012, 09:51 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNJO
@jabram
Tnx. Fantastic info. You confirmed what I suspected, that all is good with my power.
I got the radio to work following your suggestions. Turned out to be a mismatch between the baudrates. To much fiddling late at night.....

Hope we get to fly these bords again soon.

/J
Fat chance of flying, it is either strong winds or rain here. Glad you got it sorted.
Oct 20, 2012, 05:49 PM
Registered User
Very nice guys. I've shelved my project to get this going with APNG for now, but this should help when I come back to it!
Oct 21, 2012, 07:35 AM
Done Posting, Gone Flying
JNJO's Avatar
Big scare yesterday, when I ripped off my USB-connector.
(Don't ask how...It involved a cable twisted around my leg and a ringing phone....)

Anyway, managed to re-attach it (Damn, those SMD:s are small...), but it looks like I toasted the CP2102 USB to serial chip in the process.
Uploading through an FTDI on TX0 didn't work either, but then I found a very well hidden post by Sir Alex, saying that the CP2102 chip had to be removed for that to work.

Did that, and now all is well again. Sort of....
To upload firmware through TX0, I have to burn the boot loader with arduino and an USBavp on the ISP-header first. Propably a fuse bit that needs changing.
And for now, I lost my terminal in APM.

/J
Last edited by JNJO; Oct 21, 2012 at 07:40 AM.
Oct 21, 2012, 09:40 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by JNJO
Big scare yesterday, when I ripped off my USB-connector.
(Don't ask how...It involved a cable twisted around my leg and a ringing phone....)

Anyway, managed to re-attach it (Damn, those SMD:s are small...), but it looks like I toasted the CP2102 USB to serial chip in the process.
Uploading through an FTDI on TX0 didn't work either, but then I found a very well hidden post by Sir Alex, saying that the CP2102 chip had to be removed for that to work.

Did that, and now all is well again. Sort of....
To upload firmware through TX0, I have to burn the boot loader with arduino and an USBavp on the ISP-header first. Propably a fuse bit that needs changing.
And for now, I lost my terminal in APM.

/J
Darn, bad luck.

The only thing stopping Arduino upload using J2 FTDI socket Hk Mega board is that there is NOT a 100nF capacitor from the J2 socket DTR to the RESET pin on ATMega2560 [Pin 30].

Arduino uses a pulse on DTR to pulse the 2560 RESET via the capacitor, that resets the 2560 and Arduino starts upload before the 2560 times out and boots the application firmware.

I have just uploaded a sketch to HK Mega using FTDI cable connected to J2, no chips removed no different boot loader, no changes at all to the board powered from FTDI cable USB not connected.

Watch the Arduino status line when it changes from "Compiling sketch" to "Uploading " quickly press and release the HK Mega board's Reset button and LED1 should flicker until the upload is completed.

If it doesn't then first power cycle the board by disconnecting the USB end of the FTDi cable so Arduino sees an error and quits trying to "Upload"

then try again to get the timing of pressing the Reset button right.

Terminal on APM, click on Terminal button, as soon as white text appears press ENTER key 3 times, it does work from J2, I have tried it, it works.
Last edited by jabram; Oct 21, 2012 at 09:46 AM.
Oct 21, 2012, 12:54 PM
Done Posting, Gone Flying
JNJO's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jabram
...The only thing stopping Arduino upload using J2 FTDI socket Hk Mega board is that there is NOT a 100nF capacitor from the J2 socket DTR to the RESET pin on ATMega2560 [Pin 30]....

...Arduino uses a pulse on DTR to pulse the 2560 RESET via the capacitor, that resets the 2560 and Arduino starts upload before the 2560 times out and boots the application firmware...

...Terminal on APM, click on Terminal button, as soon as white text appears press ENTER key 3 times, it does work from J2, I have tried it, it works....
+3 for the MPNG bible.
Very good info, and thanks for sharing.
Would have taken me a week to even start googling for it.
I didn't even have DTR connected, but I'll try that, with 100nF, next time.

Later,
/J
Oct 22, 2012, 04:23 AM
Done Posting, Gone Flying
JNJO's Avatar

A0 - a5 i/o?


Now that I have everything working again, thanks to Jabram, I am on the hunt for some more self-inflicted problems.

Did anyone toy with the analog I/O pins A0 - A5? (AT2560 pins 97-92.)
They don't seem to be connected to anything on this board, and at least A0 is used for battery voltage monitoring from a divider, if I read the code correct.

I'm thinking that it can't be to hard to connect a header to those pins, and get easy access to battery monitoring, LED 1-4 and a buzzer maybe.

(Hope the weather clears soon, so I can stop fixing things until they are broke, and fly instead.)

/J
Oct 22, 2012, 10:44 AM
Registered User
@/J
I guess until HobbyKing make more of these boards this is going to be a lonely place :-)

Yes, I did notice those pins are not connected, I also considered doing what you suggest, soon realized having a voltage reading is almost useless when one Lipo cell can go down while the overall battery pack voltage still appears to be OK.

Instead I am using the HobbyKing "On Board Lipoly Low Voltage Alarm (2s~4s)", it is VERY LOUD and warns about the state of each individual cell, it connects to the balance lead of the battery, which means you have it connected to something instead of just leaving it flapping about.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=18987

I have it mounted near the battery using double sided tape, when first connected it beeps LOUDLY a few times, tests all Red LEDs then tests all Green LEDS.

I will bore you with a few pictures :-)









Joe


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