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Nov 29, 2013, 02:28 AM
Acft Attn Deficit Disorder
Cubcrazy's Avatar
Thread OP
I need to pop my fake radial out and either detail it, or replace it with something like THIS

What battery were you running when it ejected? Mine sits up in the front pocket enough that I don't see it coming out. I don't even use velcro, but I have non slip padding glued in. I also have a block of foam built into the battery cover that comes down and prevents the battery from sliding back. The battery cover also has magnets that I bought at Michael's craft store holding it super strong. (rare earth)

-CC
Latest blog entry: From the CC Paint Shop
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Nov 29, 2013, 02:52 AM
mkpatrick
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubcrazy
I need to pop my fake radial out and either detail it, or replace it with something like THIS

What battery were you running when it ejected? Mine sits up in the front pocket enough that I don't see it coming out. I don't even use velcro, but I have non slip padding glued in. I also have a block of foam built into the battery cover that comes down and prevents the battery from sliding back. The battery cover also has magnets that I bought at Michael's craft store holding it super strong. (rare earth)

-CC
I had the battery much like you describe but no foam built into the batt cover and stock magnets. The pack was also wedged in there, so I figured it would never come out. I was wrong.
The 4S is now in the shape of an L. It was a Shock Value 4S 3000 MaH 25C. I now need another pack. I see that Grayson hobby has some for reasonable prices.
Nov 29, 2013, 03:24 AM
Acft Attn Deficit Disorder
Cubcrazy's Avatar
Thread OP
If you are not opposed to HobbyKing batteries (some people like spending more money I guess) then I think This battery is outstanding for the GB. I run 2650 and 2700 in my GB and Waco, but I will moving up to these when my hobby budget allows. What kind of maneuver were you doing when it popped off? Negative G I assume. I have had batteries fall out of planes and dangle till I landed with Deans, and I have seen XT60s do the same. Then again I have had a battery eject on an inverted pass wit a Deans when the battery cover flew off during negative G climb out. RIP 1600mm Starmax Mustang.
Latest blog entry: From the CC Paint Shop
Nov 29, 2013, 11:32 AM
mkpatrick
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubcrazy
If you are not opposed to HobbyKing batteries (some people like spending more money I guess) then I think This battery is outstanding for the GB. I run 2650 and 2700 in my GB and Waco, but I will moving up to these when my hobby budget allows. What kind of maneuver were you doing when it popped off? Negative G I assume. I have had batteries fall out of planes and dangle till I landed with Deans, and I have seen XT60s do the same. Then again I have had a battery eject on an inverted pass wit a Deans when the battery cover flew off during negative G climb out. RIP 1600mm Starmax Mustang.
I like those, I may get one, I can't tell what connecter that is, JXT? I want to stay around 3000 to 3300 because I have two warbirds that run on these as well. I also need to re-think my charging because my only 4S I have now is swelling. I don't know why, maybe I pushed it too hard. Its a 3300 and I charged it at that rate, maybe that isn't good either.

Yeah I was doing a negative G maneuver. It's just amazing how tragic that feels when your plane is just spiraling down and all you can do is watch.
I will never have a battery depart again. NEVER. I now will have them bolted, velcro'd, strapped and welded if I have to.
Nov 29, 2013, 11:46 AM
Acft Attn Deficit Disorder
Cubcrazy's Avatar
Thread OP
You will have to install (solder) on whatever connector you normally use. It comes with large pins soldered on...one male and one female. They aren't really worth anything unless you have those giant 5mm pins laying around. I just cut them off and solder on Deans Ultra plugs since that is what I use.
Latest blog entry: From the CC Paint Shop
Nov 29, 2013, 12:54 PM
mkpatrick
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubcrazy
You will have to install (solder) on whatever connector you normally use. It comes with large pins soldered on...one male and one female. They aren't really worth anything unless you have those giant 5mm pins laying around. I just cut them off and solder on Deans Ultra plugs since that is what I use.
I find Deans the easiest to use.
Nov 29, 2013, 02:44 PM
-= Trojan Man =-
Arycon's Avatar
I use XT60's on all of my lipos. Deans have a spring that can fail. EC3's and EC5's can losen over time. The XT60 is similar to the EC3 in practice but very snug.

I -always- rig a velcro strap to wrap around my lipos if my plane is going to be flown inverted. That is in addition to having velcro along the bottom of the lipo and on top of the battery tray.

As for lipos, I use Gens Ace on my beefier planes. Best power to weight and longest lasting performance IMHO. Pricey...but they last. Nano Techs are good cheapies with nice punch and the lifespan is OK.


MK...I made a makeshift "tray" out of popsicle sticks iin my Gee Bee. Ill take some pics to show you. It helps stabilize the weight of the lipo. A 4S battery really hangs off of the battery area to hit proper CoG. The tray helps hold that weight and by cutting slots in the foam forward of that tray, you can slip a strap in to wrap around the lipo like a lil seat belt. Rock solid results here so far.
Nov 29, 2013, 03:10 PM
mkpatrick
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arycon
I use XT60's on all of my lipos. Deans have a spring that can fail. EC3's and EC5's can losen over time. The XT60 is similar to the EC3 in practice but very snug.

I -always- rig a velcro strap to wrap around my lipos if my plane is going to be flown inverted. That is in addition to having velcro along the bottom of the lipo and on top of the battery tray.

As for lipos, I use Gens Ace on my beefier planes. Best power to weight and longest lasting performance IMHO. Pricey...but they last. Nano Techs are good cheapies with nice punch and the lifespan is OK.


MK...I made a makeshift "tray" out of popsicle sticks iin my Gee Bee. Ill take some pics to show you. It helps stabilize the weight of the lipo. A 4S battery really hangs off of the battery area to hit proper CoG. The tray helps hold that weight and by cutting slots in the foam forward of that tray, you can slip a strap in to wrap around the lipo like a lil seat belt. Rock solid results here so far.
How are you securing the velcro strap to the foam?
Nov 30, 2013, 11:01 AM
-= Trojan Man =-
Arycon's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkpatrick
How are you securing the velcro strap to the foam?
I cut tiny slots in the foam with an exacto blade...roughly 1/8" wide by 1" long oneither side of the battery when it is in position. The foam area around the battery compartment has plenty of support for this. You just feed the velcro strap down one slot from the top and use needle nose pliers to maneuver it up through the second slot. The result is the strap hugs the underside and locks over the lipo during flight. I put a strip of velcro on the underside of the lipo and on the top of the tray to prevent horizontal slipping. The strap keeps the lipo rooted during aerobatics.

I use this in my Dynam Trojan, Dynam Gee Bee, and Parkzone Corsair. My lipos never ever move during flight. Straps are a must IMHO if youre going to loop, roll or otherwise have the plane inverted.
Dec 01, 2013, 11:41 AM
mkpatrick
So it looks like my motor shaft is OK by looking from just the naked eye. I don't have a way to measure if its perfectly straight.

But I have some questions about the prop shaft that came with the Gee Bee.
The spare part is called the prop adapator. It comes with the the bullet shaped nut and a shaft with threads on it that fits over the motor shaft. Then that collet (is it a collet)? fits over that shaft and the prop is tightened by the nut down securing the whole thing.
I apologize for my parochial question here but;

Is this all stuff that I can buy at a LHS that sort of a standard in the hobby for prop adaptors?
And if so, what is proper name for this stuff so I know what to ask for?

At LHS around here, there is zero Dynam or FMS parts or anything other than Eflite, PZ or Great Planes.
They do have one shop here though that has a 'generic' department that has all sorts of props and shafts and other things like wheel axles and music wire. So maybe I can just buy something that will suffice and not have to wait for and pay for shipping of the stock part.
Thanks so much for the help,
MK
Dec 01, 2013, 11:49 AM
mkpatrick
After reading here about what CC said about the Dubro lo bounce tires, I decided against them.
They are also way heavier so I was thinking about that too.

However the crash did destroy the 'axle'. I had to cut it off, it was so bent.

So I went to the LHS and bought a Klett axle set. I drilled out the wheel hubs and the strut hole and fit these on. They roll very nicely.

I was looking for a bigger wheel that was soft and cushy to mitigate the bouncy tendency and I could find nothing that really would work at all. It was a limited selection.
So I just went with the stock wheels.
Dec 01, 2013, 02:57 PM
Acft Attn Deficit Disorder
Cubcrazy's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkpatrick

Is this all stuff that I can buy at a LHS that sort of a standard in the hobby for prop adaptors?
And if so, what is proper name for this stuff so I know what to ask for?


MK
When shopping at the LHS for prop adapters, there are four styles. The collet type, where it slips on the motor shaft, and the tightening of the prop nut causes the the adapter to squeeze the shaft via the collet. Then, there is the set screw type, that looks almost the same, but it has a set screw that keeps it from sliding off the motor shaft...Then there is the rotor end adapter. This bolts into the housing of the motor and is a machined piece that is usually matched to a certain brand of motor. And finally, there is the threaded shaft that just uses a nut to hold the prop on the shaft. Often, it will go" Nut-Washer-Prop- Washer-nut.

When you go to a LHS, you are either looking for a collet prop adapter, or a set screw prop adapter. You will want to know the diameter of your motor shaft. The problem with the LHS, is that the majority of spare parts like that, are brands from Hobbico, or Horizon. (The big 2 in the US) and are often spare parts designed to fit their products. I find it much more effective to get what I want by searching it online.

Hobby Shops in the US are generally Horizon and Hobbico dealers. It is extremely rare to see an FMS, Dynam, etc etc...dealer with a walk-in store. (maybe 1 or 2 in the US) Those companies do the majority of their business in the US through mail-order internet sales.

As far as tires go..I encourage you to change out your tires for some 2.5-2.75" foam wheels from either Dubro, or Dave Brown. My GB is currently running 2.5" RUBBER low bounce tires that are very heavy by foamie standards. This plane just shrugs off the extra weight. The stock wheels are like putting bicycle tires on a car IMO.

-CC
Latest blog entry: From the CC Paint Shop
Dec 01, 2013, 03:53 PM
Registered User
Weed89's Avatar
these tire are 1's I like ... inside like dave brown...outside like treaded dubro ... quite light too.

they came with my upgrade retracts for my corsair ... and I love them.

If you need any help etc. from parkRCmodels.com ask for Max.. he is very good with customer service.

here is the tire page ....look down the page ...just after the metal hub wheels are the 1's I have and love VERY light ... I have not seen the metal hub 1's .. but they look promising too !! :

http://parkrcmodels.com/index.php?cPath=98_115
Dec 01, 2013, 04:35 PM
mkpatrick
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubcrazy
When shopping at the LHS for prop adapters, there are four styles. The collet type, where it slips on the motor shaft, and the tightening of the prop nut causes the the adapter to squeeze the shaft via the collet. Then, there is the set screw type, that looks almost the same, but it has a set screw that keeps it from sliding off the motor shaft...Then there is the rotor end adapter. This bolts into the housing of the motor and is a machined piece that is usually matched to a certain brand of motor. And finally, there is the threaded shaft that just uses a nut to hold the prop on the shaft. Often, it will go" Nut-Washer-Prop- Washer-nut.

When you go to a LHS, you are either looking for a collet prop adapter, or a set screw prop adapter. You will want to know the diameter of your motor shaft. The problem with the LHS, is that the majority of spare parts like that, are brands from Hobbico, or Horizon. (The big 2 in the US) and are often spare parts designed to fit their products. I find it much more effective to get what I want by searching it online.

Hobby Shops in the US are generally Horizon and Hobbico dealers. It is extremely rare to see an FMS, Dynam, etc etc...dealer with a walk-in store. (maybe 1 or 2 in the US) Those companies do the majority of their business in the US through mail-order internet sales.

As far as tires go..I encourage you to change out your tires for some 2.5-2.75" foam wheels from either Dubro, or Dave Brown. My GB is currently running 2.5" RUBBER low bounce tires that are very heavy by foamie standards. This plane just shrugs off the extra weight. The stock wheels are like putting bicycle tires on a car IMO.

-CC
I thought you'd said you'd wished you hadn't gone with the dubro low bounce.
I had some in my hand at the LHS the other day but they were 3".
Did the extra weight cause you to have to adjust CG?

Its the width I'm having problems coping with.
Dec 01, 2013, 08:51 PM
Acft Attn Deficit Disorder
Cubcrazy's Avatar
Thread OP
No noticeable effect on CG.
This airplane does not have a critical CG. it will fly fine within a range of CG locations. You will have to carve out the foam a bit with bigger tires, but that is no big deal.

-CC
Latest blog entry: From the CC Paint Shop


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