e-retracts - RC Groups
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Oct 10, 2012, 10:32 PM
John
jk6672's Avatar
Discussion

e-retracts


I hope I posted this in the correct area, but here goes anyways.
I just picked up my first plane with retractable gear (1400 FMS T-28) but they seem to be finiky, the left side seems to be giving some problems with not closing as flush as the right. I really don't see any adjustments to fix the sag.
Also, any tips on replacing a flap servo without damaging the EPO?
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Oct 11, 2012, 01:05 AM
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7oneWo1f's Avatar
I would run the retracts on a separate BEC. as for adjusting how far it closes, remove it, shave, modify, and glue...you might want to make your landing gear mounts stronger by carving out foam and using wood.

flap servo....knife and careful hands.
Oct 11, 2012, 01:35 AM
Suspended Account
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ms+1400mm+t+28
I was sorely temped to buy one of these birds until I read this thread. Apparently the only success with those retracts is replacing them (to small and fragile) and eliminating the doors. Lots of conversation on that subject. There are also problems with the airframe distorting due to temp changes. The bottom of the plane is cold the sun heats the top and causes a host of problems.
Oct 11, 2012, 09:56 PM
John
jk6672's Avatar
Here is a video my touchy retract and I've like to figure it out before it happens when I need to land.
retract stuck (0 min 49 sec)


It seems the left (port side) retract sits lower in the wheel bay and I'm not sure how to correct the issue:


Also I snaped a picture of the retract and out of all three retracts this is the only one that this piece of metal heats up. Any clues?

Last edited by jk6672; Oct 11, 2012 at 10:08 PM.
Oct 11, 2012, 10:33 PM
Registered User
What I've noticed with these retracts is that if the batteries are low, sometimes they all wont come down. So if you are just testing, make sure to use a full pack
Oct 11, 2012, 10:41 PM
John
jk6672's Avatar
I was using a fully charged 4S 5500mah 60C
Oct 12, 2012, 12:10 AM
Registered User
You need to plug in to the rx and see what the current draw is when they are operating. Most of those have overcurrent protection and draw between .1-.3A. Anything over this and that one will not operate. Feel the one that isn't coming and see if it is hot. Oh, just read that one does get hot. It is what I said above. Something in that one is binding, causing it to have to go over the limit for operation, so it does not.
Oct 12, 2012, 12:12 AM
Registered User
Let me ask you this, does it work when you first plug in the battery?
Oct 12, 2012, 12:12 AM
Registered User
Are you running a seperate bec?
Oct 12, 2012, 01:12 AM
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7oneWo1f's Avatar
Regarding the retract that is not retracting all the way...after you've ruled out electrical issues with the retract, and it's still a problem, remove the retract and use washers to shim while re-installing.

Another thing to try is disconnect the servos for the good retract, and see if that changes behavior.

What ESC are you using?

I'd consider picking up an external BEC to power the retracts. You don't want it in parallel with the ESC's BEC, so know what you're doing before taking this advice.
Oct 12, 2012, 07:27 AM
John
jk6672's Avatar
Its all stock, but I have ordered a 75a CC ESC and also a separate CC BEC.

I honestly don't know how to measure electrical draw, but if you can explain to me how I'll run down to Sears and pick up a meter.
Oct 12, 2012, 12:12 PM
Registered User
Also I snaped a picture of the retract and out of all three retracts this is the only one that this piece of metal heats up. Any clues?

[/QUOTE]

This is the one that is over drawing current, triggering the overcurrent protection and not working as a result. Does this one work when first plugged in or after you let it sit for a minute or two?
Oct 12, 2012, 12:34 PM
John
jk6672's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by erikc641
Also I snaped a picture of the retract and out of all three retracts this is the only one that this piece of metal heats up. Any clues?

This is the one that is over drawing current, triggering the overcurrent protection and not working as a result. Does this one work when first plugged in or after you let it sit for a minute or two?[/QUOTE]

I'll check that out today.
Oct 12, 2012, 12:39 PM
John
jk6672's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by LoneWolfRC
Regarding the retract that is not retracting all the way...after you've ruled out electrical issues with the retract, and it's still a problem, remove the retract and use washers to shim while re-installing.

Another thing to try is disconnect the servos for the good retract, and see if that changes behavior.

What ESC are you using?

I'd consider picking up an external BEC to power the retracts. You don't want it in parallel with the ESC's BEC, so know what you're doing before taking this advice.
Why would I need to do that, and do you have any pictures or diagrams of setting up external BEC?

Are you saying that the CC ESC with switching BEC won't work once installed and I should run seperate BEC?
Oct 12, 2012, 12:56 PM
St. Louis
Foambird's Avatar
Something is binding or the retract is faulty. Most likely it is binding somewhere in its travel. I don't think the added BEC is needed. The current draw is limited anyway by the retract circuitry preventing a stall from drawing too much current. I don't recognize the manufacturer of your retract.

I will say my retracts need to be re-aligned after maybe a dozen landings. The struts bend or twist slightly and begin to bind. I have to bend the struts forward and adjust the angle even with good, gentle landings. Upon landing, I always test the retracts to see if they bind upon retract before the next flight.


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