Futaba FG Gold Series Thread - Page 4 - RC Groups
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Nov 06, 2012, 05:38 PM
Andy2No's Avatar
Dirty pots?
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Nov 06, 2012, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Andy2No
Dirty pots?
No, man. My kitchen's clean.
Nov 06, 2012, 06:31 PM
Andy2No's Avatar
I wish I could say the same.
Nov 08, 2012, 12:25 PM
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Problem Solved!

There's a lot to be said for keeping after a problem until a solution is found. I attached the FrSky servo lead wires to the PCB area where the module pins are, and picked up signal, power and ground there. Turned on the juice and behold, no more jitters!
So, don't pick up the FrSky wires at the trainer socket. Something going on down there that causes the servos to jitter.
Nov 08, 2012, 03:04 PM
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The V8HT DIY module has been discontinued, replaced by the dual capable DHT DIY module, which has a toggle switch to use either telemetry or non telemetry FrSky recievers. I'll be showing a conversion with the new module soon.
Nov 09, 2012, 12:14 AM
Andy2No's Avatar
Originally Posted by RWalker
don't pick up the FrSky wires at the trainer socket. Something going on down there that causes the servos to jitter.
Power going out of the trainer socket is usually protected by a diode. I forgot to mention that.

It might work with the module powered from the trainer / buddy socket, but it means the power supply to the module is a higher impedance source, if it's powered via the protection diode. That makes the voltage less stable when the current changes, which could be a problem for the FrSky module.

When I converted my Futaba 6XHS (a type of FF6), I wired the power directly to ground and the On switch. I took the PPM Out signal from the back of the trainer socket, so the socket could still be used.
Nov 13, 2012, 11:27 AM
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Best Pratice to Pick up Wires

In perfecting my FrSky module upgrades on the FGs, I've found a better way to connect the module wires using servo extension leads:
1. Cut a servo lead in two, strip and tin the wires. Keep it nice and clean with twisted braids.
2. Remove the old module pins from the PCB. Just touch them with the tip of the soldering iron and they will pull out.
3. Insert the servo wires, white (PPM) red (+VCC) and black (GND) in the indicated pin holes and heat them up for a good solder joint to each hole one at a time.
3. Cut off any excess wire from the module side of the board
4. Make a solder bridge from GND to the Meter GND for the meter to function
Last edited by RWalker; Nov 13, 2012 at 03:05 PM.
Nov 13, 2012, 03:12 PM
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I was going to present how to install the new telemetry DHT module in an FG, but in actual practice it proved difficult. Thanks to the addition of a data plug and the toggle switch wires, it can't be installed in the old module. EDIT: I did suss out a method to install the DHT module, and it doesn't involve fitting it inside the old module. Keep reading.
Last edited by RWalker; Jun 11, 2013 at 04:06 PM.
Dec 09, 2012, 04:22 PM
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What about Kraft?

Hi everybody I see many Futaba conversions but nothing about really old Kraft radios.And I am not talking about the module types only.
I did the FG conversion with a jeti duplex TU2 2,4 module and also an old Graupner varioprop 12 S with an M-link from multiplex. Both have been tested and they work just fine. Interesting would be a conversion of MRC radios or even Pro-lines . I wish I had an oscilloscope .....
Dec 09, 2012, 11:39 PM
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My knowledge of Kraft internal structure is weak, not much on line to go from.
Jan 06, 2013, 04:18 PM
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Futaba fpt6-fn 2,4 GHz modification

Happy new year to all,

I managed to modify a Futaba fpt6-fn to 2,4 GHz using first the FRSKY module and then a Jeti module as I got several RX's of this brand. For anyone using the FRSKY module I removed and replaced the bi color three pin led with a 5mm high brightness one which I glued inside the TX on the side of the RF meter using a length of thin servo twisted cable from the pcb to it's location..It is nicely visible as the plastic cover absorbs the light and multiplies it. The set -bind button was put on the spot of the push -trainer button using a led sleeve glued with hot silicone together with a washer to cover the hole. With the led missing it comes flush with the TX metal surface and you cannot press it accidentaly while flying.To disable the MHz transmission I simply removed the Xtal. The RF meter which is a battery voltage indicator really does not react well when you use a Lipo with three cells so I did the diode thing to drop the voltage.1N4001 two of them in series will do the trick. The antenna was mounted on a bakelite (PCB board will do fine or paxoline) .I used a second one overlapping the hole and got them sandwiched with the TX case between. I want to Thank Glen for his help and suggestions and the guys who contacted me willing to help.
Last edited by nickhawk; Jan 06, 2013 at 04:23 PM. Reason: correction
Jan 06, 2013, 04:52 PM
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After the Futaba above which was a very respected and widely used radio of the seventies I got my hands on a Kraft Gold Metal series which gave me some more trouble as I had to replace some parts of the original TX due to age. It came around really well indeed, and though I am against destroying collectible gear in general I happened to own two sets one for the display and one to revive after 43+ years. I still have to clean it and polish it but otherwise the range check was excellent and I will use it shortly. I replaced again the original bi-color bind led with a high brightness one and though in the beginning it was internally mounted and no visible I spotted on the back lower cover the plastic red cover for the check of the internal charge small bulb.These radios (and alot more) were plugged in the mains to charge.Since the bulb now was useless I simply turned it the other way around and pushed inside the modified led. The bind button is placed behind the top left leg rubber cup on the back side of the TX which is of the plug in type. I don't like to drill and alter the TX and all the antenna parts I removed were actually put in heat shring tube and siliconed in places they wont do any harm.Later the FRSKY module was also replaced with an M-Link from Multiplex and now I have my sights on a Proline single stick for it.
Have a nice day
Last edited by nickhawk; Jan 08, 2013 at 12:18 PM. Reason: correction
Jan 15, 2013, 08:04 PM
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Stins's Avatar
nickhawk : nice work on the old AM's
Jan 15, 2013, 08:24 PM

Questions abt FG series & Sanwa/Aitronics

I'm not sure where I should post questions regarding some older gear I have, and I'll move over if there is a more suitable place to ask.

I have a pair of Futaba G series radios. No clue if they work. They were bought many years ago, and stored, without being used, since that time.

I'd like to know if a plug n' play 2.4ghz module is made for these?

the FP-T6FG/K is FM on 72.790mhz -50
and the FP-T5FG/K is AM on 72.790 -50

I've also got a Sanwa/Airtonics Custom 8 that is FM on 54mhz.

Does anyone have info on these?

Jan 16, 2013, 01:07 PM
Registered User
X-treme RC has a module that will plug in to the FGs, but they cost $75.00 for the module alone.

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