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Oct 23, 2012, 07:25 PM
Sport R/C Flyer/Sailer/Driver
Ouch. I feel the pain for removing the bad resin. Had something like that happen to a 1:144th scale wood built warship I glassed a while back. The glass started separating from the hull due to aged resin. It would not have been so bad except I knew that the resin was suspect even before using it.

Even worse? I used that resin on three different ships and had to redo them all. Bleah!

Stick with it! Your boat is gorgeous.
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Oct 24, 2012, 12:14 AM
Registered User
Chris Jenkins's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by MMangus View Post
Ouch. I feel the pain for removing the bad resin. Had something like that happen to a 1:144th scale wood built warship I glassed a while back. The glass started separating from the hull due to aged resin. It would not have been so bad except I knew that the resin was suspect even before using it.

Even worse? I used that resin on three different ships and had to redo them all. Bleah!

Stick with it! Your boat is gorgeous.
Thanks Magnus....still scraping away !...but at least I've cut out the frames.

Back to it.

Cheers
Oct 24, 2012, 07:40 AM
Sport R/C Flyer/Sailer/Driver
Not sure if it would help, but I used a heatgun to help soften the bad resin even more to pull the cloth off the wood hulls.

Korea huh? There was a half decent hobby shop up in the Seoul Electronics Market. I did best by ordering from Korean online web sites and having the goods delivered directly to my door.
Oct 24, 2012, 07:39 PM
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Chris Jenkins's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by MMangus View Post
Not sure if it would help, but I used a heatgun to help soften the bad resin even more to pull the cloth off the wood hulls.

Korea huh? There was a half decent hobby shop up in the Seoul Electronics Market. I did best by ordering from Korean online web sites and having the goods delivered directly to my door.
Pretty much the same for me. Not much modelling activity here. I am on an 8 on 2 off rotation back to my native S Wales, so try to stock up when I am at home !

Ref heating the epoxy...no need really in this case as I dont need to remove the glass cloth, as the problem is only related to the glue used for the internal formers and deck beams, where the goo can be removed by with a finger nail and a sharp edge. They have all been removed, and the hull internal is now clean. New formers have now been cut and so the process of installing these starts again today.

So nothing lost, apart from time and the frustration factor !
Oct 26, 2012, 07:01 PM
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Chris Jenkins's Avatar
Test fitting the fin housing and new internal framing...a slightly different arrangement this time. Hole cut for housing using my trusty Dremel...a must have tool for this sort of job
Oct 27, 2012, 07:02 PM
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Chris Jenkins's Avatar
No expense was spared in constructing an alignment jig to fit the fin housing
Oct 27, 2012, 10:38 PM
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Chris Jenkins's Avatar
Not forgetting the rudder & supporting bulkhead.

Can some of the old hands advise what maximum rudder angles are needed ?

I'm pondering foredeck options....1/16 ply seems overkill...any thoughts ?
Last edited by Chris Jenkins; Oct 29, 2012 at 01:58 AM.
Oct 27, 2012, 10:48 PM
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hiljoball's Avatar
45 degrees either side is plenty.

You can get 1/64th and 1/32 marine birch plywood at Michaels. Lighter is better.

John
Oct 28, 2012, 12:23 AM
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Chris Jenkins's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by hiljoball View Post
45 degrees either side is plenty.

You can get 1/64th and 1/32 marine birch plywood at Michaels. Lighter is better.

John
Thanks John...
Oct 28, 2012, 07:41 AM
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8387mike's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by hiljoball View Post
45 degrees either side is plenty.

You can get 1/64th and 1/32 marine birch plywood at Michaels. Lighter is better.

John
You don't have to cover the whole deck you can leave plenty of access holes and cover with patch's, this will keep weight don and the fore deck construction looks very strong anyway.

Mike
Oct 29, 2012, 01:51 AM
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Chris Jenkins's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8387mike View Post
You don't have to cover the whole deck you can leave plenty of access holes and cover with patch's, this will keep weight don and the fore deck construction looks very strong anyway.

Mike
Thanks Mike.

Here is the state of play so far. Construction this week will be on the mast box and installing the shroud fittings. After that things will slow down a bit waiting for the winch and and other bits and pieces from UK.
Last edited by Chris Jenkins; Oct 29, 2012 at 02:07 AM.
Nov 01, 2012, 11:29 PM
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Chris Jenkins's Avatar
Mast housing and deck bowl support now fitted.
Nov 02, 2012, 04:22 AM
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Chris Jenkins's Avatar
Next couple of weeks will be slow, until I can pick up the winch & radio from Wales. Anyway, quite pleased so far, and am wondering if I should leave the hull untainted and just paint the deck...any thoughts ?

I'll be using futaba 2.4ghz radio....question to the old salts....what servo for the rudder is recommended.?....standard sized 3003 for example ?

Have a great weekend all

Chris
Nov 02, 2012, 09:28 AM
Registered User
hiljoball's Avatar
A mini digital servo has the power and less weight than a standard.

http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-524...ital_mini.html

or if you are going to use lipos, then a high voltage servo

http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-7245mh_servo.html

John
Nov 03, 2012, 01:13 AM
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Chris Jenkins's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by hiljoball View Post
A mini digital servo has the power and less weight than a standard.

http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-524...ital_mini.html

or if you are going to use lipos, then a high voltage servo

http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-7245mh_servo.html

John
Thanks John...appreciate the input. Been building aircraff for 50 years or so, and this is new ground for me.

Here she is...(thinks : I really must get a proper model stand sorted out !)..rudder isn't flared to hull properly yet, will do that when final finishing done.
Last edited by Chris Jenkins; Nov 03, 2012 at 08:16 AM.


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