Flyzone DHC-2 Beaver Select Scale Tx-R Review

The new Select Scale Beaver Tx-R kit includes both wheels and floats and has built in navigation and landing lights. Perfect for twilight landings on calm water.



The Select Scale Tx-R Beaver sold out within a week of when this article first went live in November and new stock was not expected until February 2013. This gave me time to have the article taken down and some new and better quality videos have been shot and added to this review. I have encouraged friends to place an advance order for the next batch of Tx-R Beavers. Some who have flown my plane couldn't wait and bought the RTF version. If I didn't have this one I would honestly place a back order myself. Check out the review and decide for yourself.

Wingspan:59.5 inches
Wing Area:430 sq in
Weight:48 oz.
Servos:5 micro digital servos
Transmitter:Futaba 7C with AnyLink Module
Receiver:Tactic SLT for AnyLink
Battery:Flyzone 11.1 Volt 1800mAh LiPo battery pack
Motor:850kV brushless
ESC:40 Amp brushless
Propeller:12 x 6
Available From:Fine Hobby Stores Everywhere
Price RTF:$299.97
Price Tx-R:$209.97

My love for the DHC-2 Beaver was born on a visit to Victoria on Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada. There I got to see a number of "Bush" planes on floats take off and land from the harbor and that included several Beavers. I even got to see one up close while it was tied off at the dock. Best of all, one took off just past us as we were taking a ride in a boat taxi. It was a beautiful experience of sight and sound. Since then I have seen full scale Beavers on floats, normal sized wheels and over sized wheels for STOL. The full size plane is impressive and so is this new Flyzone Select Scale DHC-2 Beaver. My Tx-R version sells for $209.97 and she came with both wheels and floats. In addition, she has some very nice running lights with navigation and flashing strobes on each wing tip with a flashing red light on top of the fuselage and on the tip of the tail with a landing light in the left wing. My plane has a powerful and pretty efficient brushless motor and ESC as well as the Tactic SLT receiver to make it ready to fly with the AnyLink adapter and my Futaba 7C transmitter or with my Tactic 6 channel transmitter.

The plane and parts look gorgeous so I have taken some close up shots of the plane so that you can see for yourself. I noticed some nice design and engineering in hiding the rudder and elevator controls yet making final assembly easy. The drop hinges for the ailerons and flaps also add to the scale appearance of the Beaver and are very noticeably when I dive the Beaver at myself. Along with the molded motor in the front of the fuselage she has great looks, great performance, regular landing gear, floats and lights. I think this is their best Select Scale plane to date and that is saying something as this series has already supplied some very nice planes.

Kit Contents

The Kit Contains

  • Fuselage with motor, ESC, SLT receiver, three servos and two LEDs installed
  • Two wing halves with aileron servos installed and connected, working flaps and navigation lights and landing light
  • Horizontal stabilizer with attached elevator
  • Vertical stabilizer with attached rudder
  • Two main landing gear assemblies and steerable tail wheel assembly
  • Floats with metal braces for attachment to the fuselage
  • Propeller mounted in a spinner
  • Decals
  • Instruction manual
  • Bags of assorted hardware nicely labeled for size


De Havilland Canada introduced the DHC-Beaver back in 1948 after starting test flying in August of 1947. A total of 1,657 DHC-2s were built before the production ceased in 1967. Even though the last one was manufactured more than 45 years ago there are still hundreds flying regularly using a variety of motors and after production individual improvements. They are used as passenger and cargo planes to haul people and materials into remote areas landing on ponds, rivers, grass fields and even on glaciers using skis. Designed to service areas and people that could otherwise only be reached by foot or canoe the plane has proven itself extremely versatile and rugged. It has proven so successful that Viking Air of Victoria, Canada has purchased the rights to make replacement parts and a new improved Beaver called the DHC-2T Turbo Beaver.

Doing some research on the plane at Wikipedia was the first time I learned that it was purchased by many countries military and the US military purchased several hundred and nine are still in service with the U.S. Air Force Auxiliary for search and rescue and two at the U.S. Naval Test Pilot School. The Beaver is also used by some skydiving operators as it can quickly climb to altitude and can carry six skydivers. Finally, Indiana Jones (Harrison Ford) flies one and says it is his favorite plane.


I plan to switch between floats and landing gear and in reading the instruction manual and looking over the fuselage I noted that the main wheeled landing gear was held in place on each side with three M3x16 screws that are driven into hard plastic mounts in the fuselage. I also know that I have a very hard time finding M3x16 replacement screws. I know that over the course of time I am likely to strip the heads of those screws in swapping the gear. So instead of using the included M3x16 I used #4x5/8" sheet metal screws which are close in size to the M3x16 screws but of which I have many so I can easily replace them if I need to do so. Additionally, before starting the recommended assembly I pre-installed three #4x5/8" screws for the main landing gear into the hard plastic parts they are screwed into. I then removed the screws. This made installing the landing gear much easier in the actual construction below. Should I strip or loose a screw in swapping from wheels to floats I have a large supply of replacement #4x5/8" screws. In this review, to avoid confusion, I will continue to refer to M3x16 screws but as relates to the landing gear and floats please remember I am actually using my #4x5/8" screws for easy replacement.

Landing Gear

Before you start assembly you have to decide if you want your initial setup to be with regular landing gear or floats as the first step in the instruction manual covers installing either the floats or the wheels. The instruction manual is very good with a combination of pictures and written instructions. I opted to install the landing gear with wheels for the first flight but I also assembled the floats for quick installment later. I strongly recommend following the instructions and leaving the screws in their bags until it is time to install them. The instructions explain which size screw to use for each part of the assembly. The main landing gear attached with three M3x16 screws on each side. The gear itself came pre-assembled and only had to be mounted to the fuselage.

The tail wheel was secured to the fuselage using two M2.5x8 screws. *** (I strongly recommend not installing the tail wheel until AFTER the stabilizers, elevator and rudder have been installed. I couldn't get the supplied bolt securing the tail pieces into the fuselage through the hole in the tail wheel mechanism designed for it. For that reason I recommend installing the tail wheel after the stabilizers have been mounted.) The tail wheel is steered with two control rods for push/pull control from a plastic double control horn that came already assembled to the fuselage. This plastic control allows for control of the rudder and the tail wheel from inside the fuselage. This same double control arm is used to steer the float rudders when the floats are used.


The floats came ready to be assembled and only had to be connected to each other with two horizontal struts that are secured with a total of four M2.5x20 screws to one another. Next a total of four float mounting braces for each float, two in front and two in back, were secured onto the floats by me using four M2.5x8 screws per float or eight in total. Next I set the floats aside at this stage initially. When I came back to install them onto the fuselage I reversed the process with the wheel based landing gear and removed the two front gear and the tail gear.

The float braces were mounted onto the fuselage with the front and back brace on each float secured to the fuselage using M2.5x8 screws. The back front brace was secured to the fuselage using an M3x16 screw. The instructions didn't mention securing the front back brace to the fuselage at this time. It is secured along with a wing strut using the same screw. This was shown in the pictures in the manual.


There are two plastic tail pieces that screw onto the horizontal stabilizer end inside of the forward facing pieces of the elevator. These four M2x6 screws came in their own separate bag. The plastic pieces have mounting circles and the stabilizer had molded rounded holes with screw holes in the center. The mounting circles fit into those molded holes and using a 00 size Phillips screwdriver the screws and the plastic end pieces were easy to install.

Next I pulled out the elevator control rod partially and installed its Z-Bend end into the elevator control horn and slid the horizontal stab and the control rod into the back of the fuselage. The stabilizer's molded parts fit nicely into the fuselage.

I decided to install the fish decals onto the vertical stabilizer while I could lay it flat on a table so I installed the decals on both sides and then went to install the vertical stabilizer/rudder into place. It slid into the fuselage and on top of the horizontal stabilizer and a metal rod to steer the rudder went down through the horizontal stabilizer into a plastic slot designed to steer the rudder and connected below to the arms designed to steer the tail wheel and rudder floats. The tail pieces were held in place by their molded shapes and one screw that went through the horizontal stabilizer and into the vertical stabilizer from the bottom of the fuselage. I found I had to remove the tail wheel to install this screw as its head was larger then the hole in the tail wheel mount designed for it to go through. With the exception of this too small screw head hole, the design and engineering of this assembly was really quite nice.


The wing comes in two nice halves that were completely assembled with aileron servos mounted and connected in both sections and flaps controlled by wires that came out of the wing root ready to connect to a servo in the fuselage. There were even navigation and a landing lights installed. The left wing had two wing rods and the right wing one slightly larger wing rod. The only work involving the wing was a minor repair to a section of loose decal corrected with some CA.


Four plastic wing mounts are supplied in the kit and two per side are mounted onto the plastic wing mount pieces on the top upper side of the fuselage. Each of these wing mounts has two plastic guide pins on the sides of a hole for the mounting screw. I inserted a supplied M3x10 screw and inserted the guide pins into their respective holes and secured the screw into the fuselage with a 0 size Phillips screwdriver. I repeated this process three more times to install all four wing mounting pieces.

With the mounting pieces in place I installed the left wing half starting by inserting the aileron servo wire and the LED wire into the box hole supplied for them at the front of the wing mount. Next the two wing rods were slid into the holes on the left wing mount and then the flap wire was inserted into its own hole. Pushing the wing into the fuselage the first critical step was lining up the flap control wire with the hole in the E-Z style connector mounted on the flap servo arm. After it was through that hole I continued to install the wing until the two wing rods fit into their holes on the right side wing mount and the wing snapped onto the plastic wing mounting pieces I had just installed on the left side of the fuselage. I repeated the process with the right wing half and its one wing rod. It also snapped into place against the fuselage with everything lined up properly.

With both wing halves secured to the fuselage I next installed the wing struts. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP! Never fly without the wing struts installed as they are structurally important and not just cosmetic. The strut is mounted to the wing with a MACHINE threaded 2.5x8 screw. These came in a bag of two. The strut mounts to the fuselage with the same bolt that secures the back of the main wheel assembly or the front of the two back float braces. Per the plans this is an M3x16 screw but I used #4x5/8" screw as discussed in the Pre-Assembly Section of this review.

With the wing fully assembled I next installed the propeller and spinner as shown in the manual.

Radio Installation

The receiver came already installed inside the fuselage and connected to the ESC, the rudder, elevator and flap servos and the lights inside the fuselage. After installing the wings I attached to the two additional light wires to the light wiring harness where marked for each wing panel. I also attached the two aileron servos to a supplied Y-harness and plugged that into the aileron channel on the receiver. I peeled the cover off of the tape attached to the bottom of the receiver and stuck the receiver to a side wall out of the way in the battery compartment. I stuffed the wires back into the cockpit area. I installed a piece of Velcro to the 3-cell 1800mAh battery pack and the matching piece to the sloped foam battery area in the front of the fuselage and installed the fully charged battery pack.

I turned on my Futaba 7C AnyLink transmitter and plugged in the battery pack and I made sure the rudder and elevator servos were properly centered and the flap servo was in the up position. I then secured the rudder and elevator control rods at the servo arms in their E-Z style connectors in the neutral position using some LockTight on the screw in the E-Z style connector and a magnetized screwdriver. I secured the flap control rods in the E-Z link style connector on the servo inside the fuselage at the top back of the wing mounting box with the flaps in the up position. I then tested all controls and adjusted switches as necessary to make sure all controls were working in the proper directions.


I used converter wires from Thunder Tiger (shown below) to charge the recommended battery pack. It lets me charge using my Dean Ultra connector from the charger with the converter plugged into the pack. Another converter wire lets me use my packs with Dean connectors to operate the Beaver. Very nice not to have to change any wiring with soldering of different connectors, just plug and play.

The recommended Center of Gravity (C/G) is between 2 and 2 1/2 inches behind the leading edge of the wing. My plane balanced using the recommend pack at 2 1/4 inches behind the wings leading edge with the wheeled gear on and just about there with the floats attached. no extra weight was needed to obtain the middle location of the recommended C/G. SWEET!

The recommended High and Low rates for the control surfaces were found on page 13 of the instructions and were as follows.

HIGH RATE; recommended Control Throw Surfaces
Elevator: 7/16" Up and Down
Ailerons: 1/2 " Up and Down
Rudder: 1-1/4" Right and Left
Flap: 7/16" Down

LOW RATE; recommended Control Throw Surfaces
Elevator: 5/16" Up and Down
Ailerons: 13/8" Up and Down
Rudder: 7/8" Right and Left
Flap: 7/16" Down

AnyLink 2.4GHz Radio Adapter

My version of the Beaver came with a Tactic SLT receiver designed to be used with the AnyLink 2.4GHz radio adapter. The AnyLink Adapter has been out for a number of months now and if you are familiar with it I recommend you skip ahead to the Flying Basics section. The Tactic AnyLink allows me to fly my Beaver with it's receiver directly with a Tactic transmitter or using AnyLink with almost any transmitter out on the market. This includes transmitters that were originally on FM and transmitters made by: Futaba, Hitec, JR, Spektrum and Tower Hobbies to name some of the transmitters. The instruction manual discusses doing a 50 foot range check but I have fully tested a range of about 150 feet outside without any problems. I have flown the plane up to a measured 1,400 feet away in actual flight and had complete radio control with the AnyLink receiver and module on both my Futaba 7C and more recently using a Spectrum DX7s and its special connector/battery AnyLink cord. I never fly the plane this far away in normal flight. This was done on a measured course in response to people reporting they were replacing the AnyLink receivers in threads here in E-Zone. I am going to continue to use AnyLink SLT receivers and will be happy to take any from people who don't want to use there AnyLink receivers.

Binding the Transmitter to the Receiver

The instructions that came with my AnyLink had me push in a binding button on the receiver in the Beaver. The method described below is from the AnyLink instructions.

The Binding Process

  • Turn on the transmitter.
  • Apply power to the receiver.
  • Insert a small screwdriver into the hole marked "BIND" and press until the Rx LED glows red
  • The LED should turn off after about a second
  • Release the Bind button
  • If successful the RX LED will flash once and then remain on.
  • Test controls to make sure the direction is correct, if not reverse the necessary channels on the transmitter.

For more information on the AnyLink system just click on the link below to their website and the chart there for transmitters, cables and compatibility:


Flying with Landing Gear


The Beaver is a five channel plane with ailerons, rudder, elevator, throttle and flaps. I have set her up on both a six channel Tactic transmitter and on my Futaba 7C with AnyLink. Balanced on the recommended C/G spot she climbs at slightly over half throttle with the elevator in the neutral position or possibly a click of down. I have my elevator with a few clicks of down for nice level flight at half throttle and slightly faster. At full throttle I hold in some down elevator with the Tactic transmitter. With my computerized transmitter I programmed in some down elevator mixed with throttle that adjusts with a little more down trim as the speed goes up. In using a transmitter with throttle/elevator mixing I recommend using that option. I had no trouble flying her with the basic Tactic 6 channel transmitter, I just trimmed her for my normal flying speed and adjusted the trim tab slightly for extended full speed flight or simply held in a little down elevator for full speed runs as I do with many of my planes.

I found I had plenty of flap and elevator control with the standard setup. The elevator E-Z link style connector was on an inner hole on the servo arm and per the instructions I could have moved it out to the outer location for more elevator throw or programmed in more throw with my Futaba 7C transmitter. I mention this for those of you who like a lot of elevator throw as it is available with a minor adjustment. I found the flaps were very effective as they came and they slow the Beaver down very nicely. If more flap was desired I could have done it with programming on my transmitter or buy using a longer control arm on the flap servo. Again I didn't find any need to change from the provided set up but change is possible if so desired.

The Beaver is a joy in basic flight. I get very nice long slow flights or somewhat shorter flights when using a lot of full throttle. At half throttle her handling was very good and I had to go slower and go into a climb to provoke a stall. From a straight stall she dropped her nose and quickly recovered. From a stall in a normal turn but performed with overly slow flight she recovered quickly with a little throttle and straightening of the plane out of the turn. I have done diving spins with tight turns and she pulls out of them very nicely and the plane has handled the stress without any apparent adverse effect to her.

Taking Off and Landing

Point her into the wind and from a hard surface she takes off at half throttle with a fully charged battery. Landing into the wind she can be stopped very quickly using full flaps. Touch and goes can be a lot of fun, especially with long runs with only one wheel on the ground for 60 feet or so. I had no trouble landing her into the wind or even with a 30 degree cross wind in a light breeze. The tail wheel gives good turning on the ground. Even an early intermediate pilot should have no trouble taking off or landing this plane from a hard surface or short grass.

Aerobatics/Special Flight Performance

She performs a very nice loop and the loop can be fairly tight or very large. For a top wing plane she does an acceptable aileron roll and using ailerons and rudder she will do a barrel roll. She can be flown for some other basic aerobatics but I think she looks best being flown in a scale like fashion. I try to do short roll takeoffs and very short roll out landings on a spot as if I were flying into a tight field in the wild. I have now done multiple takeoffs from short grass and a couple from normal yard length grass and all were fine. She is a fun plane with which to do touch and goes and touch and one wheel rolls.

Is This For a Beginner?

Yes! With wheeled landing gear she can be flown by a beginner. She handles like a forgiving high wing trainer and I see no reason she couldn't be flown by a beginner. As always I recommend a beginner consult an expert trainer and/or have extensive flight trainer experience for the best chances of success.

Flight Video/Photo Gallery

My Flyzone Beaver in Slow Flight


My Flyzone Beaver in Basic Aerobatics


Flying with Floats


The basics for float flying are pretty much the same as flying her with the wheels. To prepare for float flying I had to remove three screws from each side of the fuselage that were holding on the wheeled landing gear. In that process I noticed that I had slippage with two of my main screws (see above) and my screwdriver. When I got them out I replaced them with spare screws from my purchased separate parts. The floats attached to the fuselage using the two same screws (M3x16) in the center for the back of the front mount and the front of the back mount. Smaller M2.5x8 screws were used in the very front mount and the very back mount. I removed the tail wheel. I slid a small (supplied) rubber band down the fishing control line to each float and attached the rubber bad to the rudder and float as shown in the picture below. I then slid the metal rod into place on the appropriate E-Z style link on the back bottom of the fuselage and secured the rod in place with the set screw. I then repeated that process with the other float. The lines are designed to cross at the mount. All in all it was a very easy process. (I double check the steering E-Z style connectors just before each flight as the rubber bands have a strong pull and I had one come loose during one flight and one while in transit.)

Taking Off and Landing

Takeoffs and landings should be done into the wind. Takeoffs and landings were both very easy to perform with the supplied floats. It is important to have the float rudders on straight as relates to splash from the floats. The right rudder control got knocked off line a bit during a flying session and on the takeoff that rudder was in a left turn. Even with that condition control of the Beaver was not hard but the directional change on the rudder caused excessive splash on the back bottom of the elevator and tail of the fuselage but the plane still took off without a problem. Takeoffs were performed normally at slightly more than half throttle to 3/4's throttle with a fresh battery. For landings just line up into the wind and slowly reduce throttle. This has been one of the best handling float planes I have ever flown. With the float rudders straight it is easy to make pretty scale looking takeoffs or very quick takeoffs from the water. Landings can be performed scale like with the prop operating or drop and stop with the prop off. She has been very forgiving for my friends and some of their landings ... and one of mine.

Aerobatics/Special Flight Performance

Floats lower the planes center of gravity. Loops are still easy to perform but rolls are not as smooth nor as tight with the weight and the drag created by the floats. I prefer to see the Beaver fly in a scale like fashion and generally do not do aerobatics with the floats on but I want to let you know they can be done. They are shown in the aerobatic float video below and are also shown in the embedded video below from the Hobbico Website.

Is This Plane For A Beginner?

I don't recommend anybody start off flying with floats. The balance is lower with floats and a crash in the water is a more difficult recovery than on land. Learn to fly her with wheels. After land based flight is MASTERED, then use the floats.

Flight Video/Photo Gallery

I have embedded the DHC Beaver video from the Flyzone/Hobbico website to give everyone a good look at the Beaver in action. This video combines footage with both wheels and floats and is a Hobbico promotional video. There is nothing shown in the video that differs with what I was able to experience with the plane during this review.

My Flyzone Beaver with Floats in a fairly short scale flight


Jeff Hunter with a short aggressive flight demonstrating a loop, a roll and an interesting landing.


A longer scale flight demonstrating the flaps in flight and mixing up the speed a bit more.



Here are two pictures and a short video of the Beaver's lights. The video has the Beaver at rest, not flying.



As stated above the Beaver is in my opinion the best Select Scale plane yet offered and I have flown all of them to date. To include both wheeled landing gear and floats makes for a very nice bargain and she flies very well with floats and with the wheels. While I had no trouble flying her with my basic Tactic TX-600 transmitter she handled even better with a little programming as discussed above using my Futaba 7C using the AnyLink system. Mixing of throttle and elevator is a nice option but certainly not required. I found very minor trim adjustments of a click or two of elevator in switching between the landing gear and the floats and the process was quick and easy to do at home or in the field. I keep the tail wheel parts in a closeable plastic bag when not in use so as not to loose the parts. The screws and extra screws I bought are kept in a small old pill bottle and marked: "Beaver."

In switching gear and with the initial installation of landing gear I have justly slightly stripped two of my replacement screws but since I switched to a size readily available locally I simply switched out the damaged screws with new screws. This stripping of screws was my fault but I don't think I am the only one who might do that so take better care than I did initially in installing the screws for the first time. I have no trouble with the screws now that I have "cut" the channels in the plastic mounts in the fuselage.

When using the floats I now check the plane over completely before each flight. As discussed above I have needed to tighten up the control rods on the float rudder lines twice so far as the rubber bands have a strong pull on the rudders. In all honesty the minor rudder control line problem was the only problem I have had with the plane. She looks great in the air and flies well. I admire the looks and lines of the Beaver and like the supplied color scheme. I have a black paint pen (shown below) with which I have done a little minor touch up as some slight white of the foam started to show in some spots on the fuselage from my touching. If I didn't like the supplied paint scheme so much; I might have painted her in scale military colors and markings just to draw comments. So far everyone that has seen her, especially on floats, has liked what they have seen.

I consider her one of the nicest handling float planes I have ever flown. I consider her an excellent float plane for the intermediate or better pilot who wants to fly with floats for the first time. If I lived on water I would consider her a must have plane. She looks spectacular on water at dawn or twilight with her navigation lights and easy to see image in that lighting.


Bonus Float Photo Gallery by Guest Photographer Sherrie


  • Nice tail assembly design: functions well and looks scale
  • Floats and wheeled gear both included
  • Hinging for flaps and ailerons and hidden controls were very nicely done
  • Nice color scheme with clear difference between top and bottom of plane
  • Lots of power: Can takeoff from land or water at about half throttle


  • Might Need access to extra M3x16 screws if going to switch landing gear/floats frequently
  • The tension from the rubber bands with the floats pulls on the rudder controls and helped loosen the control line from one E-Z link style connector during one flight and while transporting the Beaver.


My thanks to Dick Andersen, Jeff Hunter and Sherrie for their assistance with the media for this review and to our editor, Angela, for her assistance as well. My thanks to Hobbico/Flyzone for supplying the plane for this review.

Last edited by Michael Heer; Jan 02, 2013 at 09:47 PM..
Thread Tools
Nov 15, 2012, 09:57 AM
"You're gonna hafta kill me"
Cool Hand Luke's Avatar
Hi Michael,

Great review. I have been flying my Beaver for a couple of weeks now. I am a big fan of this plane. I've only flown it with the landing gear but I am looking forward to flying it off the water.

I too had trouble with the included screws. I was concerned about switching between gear/floats with the included hardware. I will try the screws you recommend.

Did you get the paint pen from a craft store?

I look forward to your reviews.

Cool Hand Luke
Nov 15, 2012, 12:11 PM
Registered User
Michael Heer's Avatar
Thread OP
I got my paint pen previously at RC Country and most recently at Michaels craft store. It was sold in a pack of three:red, white and black and I used a 40% off one item discount coupon. Glad you are having fun with yours. You will love it off the water. That said; I just put the wheels back on this morning as it is getting cold and cloudy. Will go back to the floats in spring. Glad you enjoyed the review and thanks for the nice words. Glad you are enjoying your Beaver also. Mike Heer
Nov 15, 2012, 02:57 PM
"You're gonna hafta kill me"
Cool Hand Luke's Avatar
Thanks Mike for the paint info.

Cool Hand Luke
Nov 15, 2012, 08:14 PM
Registered User

Beaver Review

I purchased the Beaver and added Trexler bush type wheels on the airplane to give it a more scale look. How slow does it land so I don't damage the rubber tires?

How good are the flaps for landing?

Can I remove the receiver included and add a spectrum receiver for increased range?
Nov 15, 2012, 08:16 PM
Registered User
vonJaerschky's Avatar
Originally Posted by ChrisFlysRC
I purchased the Beaver and added Trexler bush type wheels on the airplane to give it a more scale look. How slow does it land so I don't damage the rubber tires?
Pretty slow, especially with the flaps down.

Originally Posted by ChrisFlysRC
How good are the flaps for landing?
Very. They really slow it down.

Originally Posted by ChrisFlysRC
Can I remove the receiver included and add a spectrum receiver for increased range?
You betchya. A lot of us have done that already.
Nov 16, 2012, 03:02 AM
Registered User

Flyzone Beaver

Originally Posted by vonJaerschky
Pretty slow, especially with the flaps down.

Very. They really slow it down.

You betchya. A lot of us have done that already.
Thanks for the reply on the Flyzone Beaver. Michael Herr great review on the airplane.
Flyzone has made one of best scale electric airplanes that included both wheels and floats at good price. It makes a fun airplane for RC flyers who either have a pond or runway at there club.

The added scale aircraft position lights,strobe light and a landing light saves money on installing a separate LED light system. The lights on the wing tips look scale along with the scale landing light.
Last edited by ChrisFlysRC; Nov 16, 2012 at 03:09 AM.
Nov 16, 2012, 07:01 PM
Registered User
Bill Glover's Avatar
Looks nice, good review.

Are the finlets on the horizontal stabiliser permanently attached? Pretty sure they're only used on the full-size when it's on floats.
Latest blog entry: Eachine QX65 FPV quad review
Nov 16, 2012, 07:44 PM
Sucker for biplanes
I just got the Beaver together and looks nice. Trying to use a Spektrum ar6200 with this plane with a brand new 2200 lipo and I get no power through the esc. I can get the controls and lights to work but no power to the ESC or motor. Has anyone had this problem? Thanks
Nov 16, 2012, 07:48 PM
Registered User
vonJaerschky's Avatar
Originally Posted by Bill Glover
Are the finlets on the horizontal stabiliser permanently attached?
No, they are attached with screws. You can remove them (or not install them at all) if you like.

Originally Posted by DMHIGHFLYER
I just got the Beaver together and looks nice. Trying to use a Spektrum ar6200 with this plane with a brand new 2200 lipo and I get no power through the esc. I can get the controls and lights to work but no power to the ESC or motor. Has anyone had this problem? Thanks
It sounds like your ESC is not arming. Try reversing the throttle channel setting on your transmitter.
Nov 16, 2012, 08:06 PM
Foamie Freak!
Leather Helmet's Avatar
I too love mine, I have the select scale Supercub as well, and they are my favorite planes so far. Had eight flights off my dock last Sunday, on floats with the Beaver for the first time and had a blast. One bad landing and I had to get in the cold water to retrieve, so that was fun,lol. Motor stopped working four flights later as I was quitting for the day,but sitting in the house for three days solved that concern so I guess it was water in esc. Thanks for the review

I removed the Tactic immediately and installed a Spektrum, for the extra range and peace of mind.....
Nov 16, 2012, 09:17 PM
Registered User
Michael Heer's Avatar
Thread OP
The finlets installation was covered in the article including the attached picture. They can be added or removed with a screwdriver. Mike Heer
Nov 17, 2012, 07:24 AM
Registered User
Bill Glover's Avatar
Originally Posted by Michael Heer
The finlets installation was covered in the article including the attached picture. They can be added or removed with a screwdriver. Mike Heer
Presumably you'd need to disconnect the elevator linkage to get access to the rear screws. I asked the question because of the footage of the model flying with the finlets on but no floats.
Latest blog entry: Eachine QX65 FPV quad review
Nov 17, 2012, 10:57 AM
Registered User
Is it really a good idea to fly with a "converter wire" ?
Surely the additional possible failure point isn't worth the effort of resoldering the ESC with connectors to match those on your batteries ?

N.B. #1 Testing / charging via adaptor is quite acceptable, (there is no vibration to shake things loss, and no crash if an adaptor does fail).
N.B. #2 Resoldering different connectors on a battery back requires a lot of care to avoid shorting or over heaing out the battery so I avoid it when possible.
Last edited by mitchellj; Nov 17, 2012 at 10:58 AM. Reason: fix typo
Nov 17, 2012, 10:58 AM
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Are the windows decals or are they plastic inserts?

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