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Sep 26, 2012, 04:38 PM
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Bill Smudge's Avatar
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Build Log

Peter Rake Stahlwerk--36"--Proto-build. Maiden vid added


Peter made a request for some builders, to assist him in getting some proto-types built, of some of his designs. I sheepishly raised my hand and with Pete's help decided on the Stahlwerk. I like the look of the plans and the plane is a pretty simple RET design and build. I'm fortunate to have a few tools that allow me to make my own parts, so I'll be rolling my own on this build.

Best I can tell, Pete's model is of the Stahlwerk Mark R-III a German design first produced in about 1922.

Finished the vert and horz stab today, this is the first time I've ever laminated balsa strips for a curved parts in a tail section. Boy! I gotta say I really love the look and strength of the resulting structure. Go ahead yawn now.... here are some pictures:


On to the fuse next...


Bill
Last edited by Bill Smudge; Nov 08, 2012 at 07:46 PM. Reason: maiden video added
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Sep 26, 2012, 04:46 PM
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NICE - Watching this build!! -
Sep 26, 2012, 04:57 PM
Retired and Lovin' it!
TPfingston's Avatar
Good Luck Bill. I'm following your build. Best wishes

Tony
Sep 26, 2012, 06:49 PM
It's a fine fiddly business.
Robert R's Avatar
Good success Bill.
Robert
Sep 26, 2012, 07:21 PM
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Bill,
Nice start mate. I like the recycled balsa you've included.
Seriously, if my first laminated parts had come out that nicely I'd have been feeling very pleased with myself.

Pete
Sep 26, 2012, 07:36 PM
What's 3D?
trumps's Avatar
Nice start mate.
Sep 26, 2012, 07:58 PM
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Bill Smudge's Avatar
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Thanks everyone, small baby steps but it's a start.



Quote:
Originally Posted by PETERRAKE
Bill,
Nice start mate. I like the recycled balsa you've included.
Seriously, if my first laminated parts had come out that nicely I'd have been feeling very pleased with myself.

Pete
Hey Pete,

OOP's you saw my recycled balsa, that's some nice "FIRM" scrap stuff from a Guillows kit, hard to break while sanding---even if you try real hard. I can see right now, where appropriate, laminated parts are the only way to go.

Pete have you seen the 36 inch version of this plane fly? Just wondering about the turning ability, sans ailerons....


Bill
Sep 26, 2012, 08:30 PM
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Boogie_'s Avatar
Nice stuff Bill.
Yep, laminating curved parts is the only way to go.




I'll be joining you soon with a proto build for Pete.
Sep 26, 2012, 09:02 PM
Or current resident
glewis's Avatar
Nice work so far Bill.
Signing on for this one.
Has a awful short nose, better plan on all the equipment up in the nose.
Why no ailerons?

Glenn
Sep 26, 2012, 10:29 PM
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Bill Smudge's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glewis
Nice work so far Bill.
Signing on for this one.
Has a awful short nose, better plan on all the equipment up in the nose.
Why no ailerons?

Glenn
Yes your quite correct Glenn the nose is VERY stubby, images I have found out on the web bear that out, Peter has modeled the real deal very closely.

So far I've used some pretty light balsa in the tailfeathers, they weigh 6 gms.
Yes indeed everything will be installed as far forward as possible.

Planning on useing Polyspan for covering and very light paint coats.

The complete rear portion of the fuse is all open simple box framework, so that should help with having too much weight in the butt, we will see.

Why no ailerons?

I could implement them, I suppose, but in a way I kind of want to go with the
K.I.S.S. approach. Peter has designed in 3/4" dihedral on each wing panel, this I assume should allow for decent enough turning. Peter may want to comment on this point.

Working on the fuse next, the wings will be the last thing I build so I will chew on the aileron question.......

I really hope to keep this one very light and have a very slow scale-like plane.

Bill
Sep 26, 2012, 11:25 PM
Übung macht den Meister..
Deuce's Avatar
My Airtronics Q-Tee was (well, still is!) 36" span w/no ailerons, and it turned pretty well for a rudder-elevator only model! I'm sure Pete's designed in the dihedral just right to effect a good turn.

Great start!

James
Sep 27, 2012, 12:49 AM
Registered User
Bill,
It should turn just fine without ailerons. I happen to like simple, R/E/T models because they're light, simple to build and easy to fly. Various sized versions of this model have all flown well so I can see no reason why this one (and the 18" one I'll be building) should be any different.
So Bill, no, we'll have no pondering the aileron idea. That rather defeats the object of a prototype build. Build a second wing with them if you like, but I need the 3 channel model test flown and photographed first. Being a prototype, of course, means that as far as I'm aware nobody has seen this model fly yet. There you go, another first for you.

Pete
Sep 27, 2012, 01:07 AM
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I just had a thought. Yeah, it happens sometimes.
Don't be tempted to attempt saving weight at the tail by using too soft longerons. They need to be ptretty much as hard as you can get them to prevent crushing risk - especially if you are intending to cover with Polyspan. It strikes me as overkill on a tiddler like this. Litespan or tissue would have been my choices, or even a lightweight film covering. Everything about it screams light and floaty to me, whereas I always relate Polyspan with chunky and sturdy.

Pete
Sep 30, 2012, 06:58 PM
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Bill Smudge's Avatar
Thread OP
Hello All,

Fuselage well on the way. As Pete said earlier there will be no ailerons, which is fine, much easier build that way.

A couple of observations about the fuselage. The front portion is designed like a tank I believe you could drive it through a concrete wall, it is very rigid and stiff and will be able to handle rough landings with ease. That's a good thing as I'm still a pilot in training...

Pete I'm a bit concerned about the rear portion back from the front 1/8" sidewalls. I used the stiffest 1/8" stock in my stock for the longerons but the rear section seems pretty flimsy, very easy to twist.

I realize that the short nose of the plane requires the rear be as light as possible but I fear the first medium strike to the rear is going to cause a failure. Do you suppose if I use something like Doculam to cover the open framework rear we will gain enough rigidity, Doculam when shrunk really adds a lot of strength to a framework.

Here are some pics of my work on the fuse:

BTW I think my work is much neater than my work area

Bill
Sep 30, 2012, 07:24 PM
Registered User
Bill,
How soft are the longerons? If you stripped them yourself, it would need to be of similar hardness to oak for that to come through into the strip. Even Guillows wood might be a little soft. It's a fact of life that when you cut strip it always seems to be softer than the sheet it was cut from. The trouble is, once the sheet is hard enough, it's almost impossible to strip accurately - why I always buy ready cut strip.
If you're really worried about them, build another rear using bass longerons. If it's just the twist you're concerned about, the covering will stiffen things up.
Just bear in mind that if they are soft, using more aggressive covering will only bow them between the uprights/cross braces, giving you that horrible starved horse look.

I always claim that I design models to fly, not bounce. You already know the solution to that one mate, DON'T bounce it.

Pete


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