Sorry I am babbling a bit. Xmas is a bit frantic here. Maybe I need more wine, or less.

I have been studying the various controllers and both Skyline and Radian state specifically in their respective manuals to remove all the pots. They also now include a resistor that you plug into the servo pot lead. The resistor basically gives you neutral.

Radian - http://www.freeflysystems.com/pdf/ra...l-v1-print.pdf

Skyline - http://www.photohigher.co.nz/assets/...uide-1.2.2.pdf

If you see any pots it is because it is an older version. Both systems now run without pots.

HF states in their manual that they also can be used without pots, but no one seems to have ever done it.

The reason a pot is not required is the controller itself closes the loop and provide positional feedback. That requires the controller be mounted so it moves with an axis. All this is covered in the manuals.

Obviously having the controller move with the camera is ideal as it removes all errors due to structure flexing or gears or belts. The controller reports the exact same motion the camera exhibits.

Hope this is a clear, please read the manuals as they are well written and do a much better job of explaining the operation.

Originally Posted by milo12

The main problem I have with HF is their packaging is unprofessional crap. How come everyone else can make a nice weather protected package but HF cannot?

I do not see the casual users making any real attempts to balance the camera. Most just bolt it down and go.

I have been using the HFP for close to 2 years now as well as trying other FC's. With respect to the packaging/protective case you have to remember that when HF put out their first HFP nobody was doing any sort of protective case with their FCs. MK and all the others put out the FC as boards etc.
DJI started using protective cases and its become a standard expected feature.
I dont know how long till HF bring out a new version of their FC but I would be surprised if they dont have it in a protected case.

With respect to casual users not making any real attempts to balance their gimbals I think you will find that many of us are learning a lot via this kit gimbal and lessons such as balancing gimbals etc are being picked up along the way.

Thats the best thing about this kit and this thread, lots of information sharing and learning.

>>Sorry I am babbling a bit. Xmas is a bit frantic here. Maybe I need more wine, or less.<<

LOL now I understand. You had wine!! No wonder I couldn't make heads or tails on what you were saying.

>>I have been studying the various controllers and both Skyline and Radian state specifically in their respective manuals to remove all the pots. They also now include a resistor that you plug into the servo pot lead. The resistor basically gives you neutral.

Radian - http://www.freeflysystems.com/pdf/ra...l-v1-print.pdf

Skyline - http://www.photohigher.co.nz/assets/...uide-1.2.2.pdf

If you see any pots it is because it is an older version. Both systems now run without pots.<<

Yup, now it makes perfect sense.

So what you are saying is what you said on the other thread. You are saying that the other method to get the gimbal stabilized is that you use a continuous rotating servo and mount the gimbal controller on the last axis so the controller senses the motion of the movement to get position feedback.

You are also saying that both Skyline and Radian are going that route and why didn't anyone test that with HoverFly Gimbal controller.

>>HF states in their manual that they also can be used without pots, but no one seems to have ever done it.<<

I didn't read their manual. Did it say you can do that. If it does then I am sure you can mount it below the last axis of movement and use a continuous rotating servo. I think it is an interesting idea but I also suspect that you may get some drift eventually unless the gimbal controller is very very good.

>>The reason a pot is not required is the controller itself closes the loop and provide positional feedback. That requires the controller be mounted so it moves with an axis. All this is covered in the manuals.<<

Yes, now you make sense.

>>Obviously having the controller move with the camera is ideal as it removes all errors due to structure flexing or gears or belts. The controller reports the exact same motion the camera exhibits.<<

Correct, assuming that the sensor on the controller is sensitive and can filter out enough noise to be accurate. It is definitely something to think about and test. As you said the two big boys (Photohigher and Cinestar are doing it).

>>Hope this is a clear, please read the manuals as they are well written and do a much better job of explaining the operation.<<

Yes it is clear. And yes I am thinking of ways to test the concept. I may be able to use the Open Pilot controller as a stand alone gimbal controller.

Continue to have more wine.

Seismic maybe I should keep my 360 brushless servos without pots and try this approach

Originally Posted by pug398

Seismic maybe I should keep my 360 brushless servos without pots and try this approach

What gimbal controller are you using? It should be pretty easy if you are using a stand alone controller. The only issue is that I have never done it with the Open Pilot CC boards. I have to figure it out.

It won't work for me even though I am using stand alone multiwii gimbal. In addition to not having an external pot mount I also do not have a camera tray to mount the controller underneath. Still want you to test the servo for me

Sounds a little different I know but my entire rig with gimbal, cameras and batteries weighs less than 2.3kg.

RCTimer has a new servo. $62

14.00kg-cm 0.12sec/60º 6V

16.50kg-cm 0.10sec/60º 7.4V


http://www.rctimer.com/index.php?gOo...5&productname=

Originally Posted by pug398

It won't work for me even though I am using stand alone multiwii gimbal. In addition to not having an external pot mount I also do not have a camera tray to mount the controller underneath. Still want you to test the servo for me

Sounds a little different I know but my entire rig with gimbal, cameras and batteries weighs less than 2.3kg.

That's right you have half a gimbal.

Originally Posted by TheFernMan

RCTimer has a new servo. $62

14.00kg-cm 0.12sec/60º 6V

16.50kg-cm 0.10sec/60º 7.4V


http://www.rctimer.com/index.php?gOo...5&productname=

The specs look right for our gimbal use. Are you planning on trying it?

Originally Posted by SeismicCWave

The specs look right for our gimbal use. Are you planning on trying it?

No lol I thought I would post the link in case anyone want to know. Seems good for tilt, right? For roll you'll want more torque and less speed.

Originally Posted by TheFernMan

No lol I thought I would post the link in case anyone want to know. Seems good for tilt, right? For roll you'll want more torque and less speed.

16 kg of torque is not that bad. Sounds ok for roll too. I bookmarked the link and I will probably try one later.

Originally Posted by SeismicCWave

The reason we are using the 32 groove servo pulley is because it is readily available from Lynxmotion. It is better to use a smaller pulley if available. I have been testing smaller servo pulleys by fitting a splined servo shaft from Servo City to a double flanged pulley. It is working well so far but it does require a bit of work to make it fit.

As we are on the other side of the pond, I will be getting my bits here: http://www.motionco.co.uk/timing-pul...-25_35_26.html
Is there an optimum reduction ratio you have found for tilt and roll? Is a bigger reduction desired if possible (allowing for the need to give fuller rotation of the pot) and the slower reaction speed if too great.

Have you seen this option for gearing the pot?:http://www.multirotorforums.com/show...l-Design/page7

Originally Posted by jetstuff

Have you seen this option for gearing the pot?:http://www.multirotorforums.com/show...l-Design/page7

I've certainly thought about putting a small pulley on the pot, and using it with the same belt that runs to tilt motion. It didn't seem as easy as the way we're doing it now though.

Rusty

>>As we are on the other side of the pond, I will be getting my bits here: http://www.motionco.co.uk/timing-pul...-25_35_26.html
Is there an optimum reduction ratio you have found for tilt and roll? Is a bigger reduction desired if possible (allowing for the need to give fuller rotation of the pot) and the slower reaction speed if too great.<<

For our gimbal the optimum ratio is between 2.5 to 1 and 3.0 to 1. So the 2.8 to 1 Rusty is supplying in the kit is about optimum for most practical use.

>>Have you seen this option for gearing the pot?:http://www.multirotorforums.com/showthread.php?4664-Neills-DIY-Gimbal-Design/page7<<

That is the first time I saw the thread. It is another method to gear the pot. A little complicated but I am sure it will work.

These servos came back in stock. Good for roll?

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=18401

Mi Digital High Voltage Metal Gear Servo 23.0kg / 0.12 / 61g