The Tippecanoe Boats Thread - Page 8 - RC Groups
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Dec 30, 2012, 02:26 AM
Thanks for the information on how you planked your deck. I have the veneer on hand and thought that I would use that, but I would have to steam each strip and pin into place while it dried just like the plans show for the deck side strip.
I was planning on planking the deck before attaching it to the hull. I read how one guy used a building board to layout and glued up his deck then attached it to the hull. I believe that if I taped the paper with the deck outline and plank pattern covered with plastic wrap on a building board I could use small brads or pins to hold the strips in place untill the glue dried. After the strips were glued together I could attach the deck to the strips and cut out the hatches and use those to make the hatch coverings(kind of like you said that you did). . I'm still mulling things around in my head.
Thank you again for your informantion, as you know every little bit helps. Like others have said the people on this site are just great about helping others out when a question comes up. I'll post some pictures and let you know how things go.
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Dec 30, 2012, 05:35 AM
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Merkava's Avatar
Hot tuna,

That is an outstanding job. looks absouletly fantastic.
Dec 30, 2012, 03:11 PM
Hot Tuna where did you get your wood from. I checked the internet and was only able to find wood strips in 24 inches. We live in a small condo and don't have room for a table saw to cut boards down to size.
Dec 30, 2012, 09:34 PM
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Hot Tuna's Avatar
The wood for my deck was left over from a kayak I built from a kit I purchased from Redfish Kayaks. Joe Greenley puts out a wonderful product and is VERY helpful. If you need a project that is a bit larger, I highly recommend one of his kits. So when I was needing some wood for my next model build, I contacted Joe and asked him to cut me some to match my kayak wood. His email is on the web site, send him a note and see what he can do for you.
Last edited by Hot Tuna; Dec 30, 2012 at 09:48 PM.
Dec 31, 2012, 02:50 PM
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Hot Tuna's Avatar
Hircsailor, I hope this helps explain the hatch covers. If you need more, drop me a note and we can talk.
For the hatches, I wanted something to keep out the water while keeping to the wood theme. I saw this method on one of the other sites. They were actually quite easy. I framed in the hatch opening first leaving a raised edge so the water will not wash across the deck and down the hatch. The cover was a bit small due to the saw cuts so I needed to make it a little larger. I did that by adding a thin strip of the contrasting dark color and sanded it down to the length and width so that the edge piece just fit over the frame of the hatch opening like the top on a shoe box. Magnets on the deck and the cover hold it firmly in place. I epoxied the magnets in the hatch opening first. After the epoxy dried, I placed Saran Wrap over them, placed the magnets for the cover side on top of them (make sure the Saran is between the magnets, this is VERY important :-), a dab of epoxy on top of the magnet, and then the cover. The empty beer bottle you just finished adds just enough weight to make sure everything sets up with a good fit. The magnets in the cover are placed perfectly because they cure right where they need to be and the Saran between the magnets makes sure you have a release after everything is set up. If you vary the poles of the magnets in the hatch opening, the cover will only go on one way and your wood grain will always match. After everything was complete, I laid a piece of Saran Wrap across the hatch opening, ran a small bead of silicone around the edge of the cover, put it in place, and let the silicone form a nice seal for a little added protection. No beer bottle this time, let the magnets pull it to a natural fit. I have been in some very rough water and the boat has remained bone dry. I also have a sealed tube that the mast drops into and raised the exit (fairlead) for the sheets to come through the deck. This assures no water will get in.
K&J Magnets is a great source for these neodymium magnets, good prices and good service, and they carry every size you could ever need. I used a 1/8 x 1/8 X 1/8 block in the corners of the opening and 1/10 x 1/32 cylinder on the cover.
One source of inspiration
Dec 31, 2012, 03:25 PM
Thank you for the informantion on both the deck planking and on how the hatch covers were made. I was thinking along the same line for making the hatch covers.
After looking at my leftover building supplies I think that I will use the veneer and run the planks along the center line. We like the looks of your deck but why buy materials if you have some onhand to use.
Jan 01, 2013, 12:11 AM
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Hot Tuna's Avatar
How does the T37x differ from the T37?
Jan 01, 2013, 02:50 AM
The T37x is a T37 that was lengthened to 1 meter by Will Lesh. Everything is the same except the transon is angled to get then added 2 inches. I set the deck of my new T37 on top of the T37x and they are the same length.
On the new T37 I am going to use a double sail arm and run the jib sheet under the deck. I will have to change the locations of the sail and rudder servo, but after talking to Will about it he doesn't think that there will be any balance problem by moving the servos around as long as they stay on the radio board.
Btw Hot Tuna I am going to use your idea for buiding hatch covers for both the T50 and the T37. Again thanks a lot for passing that informantion along.
Jan 02, 2013, 12:24 AM
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Hot Tuna's Avatar
What is the advantage of the double sail arm? I would think that the shorter arm would be too short. I recently changed out my 645 servo for a 5645 to get enough throw with the longer single arm, double purchase setup.
Jan 02, 2013, 01:53 AM
I guess that it's a personal choice, we use double purchase line with a double sailarm, one side for the main sail and the second arm for the jib sail. To me the advantage is that the jib sheet goes right to the jib without having to pass through a pivot point behind the servo to change direction. With the sail servo centered on the boat's centerline the sail arm is just as long as the orignal arm (3 inches.) The only disadvantage to me is the need for a servo that goes 180 degrees.
When I get to that stage on the T37 I will post some pictures. I spent the day making bulkheads for the hatch covers. Thanks to Hot Tuna I plan on using hatch covers like he made for his T37on all three of my Tippecanoe boats
Jan 02, 2013, 12:42 PM
If it floats....sail it!
FoamCrusher's Avatar
If you are retrofitting an existing boat with the deck fairleads and boom attachment points already set, by putting the servo off center and using different lengths for the arms, you can adjust for differences in the boom pivot lengths to get the necessary throw. The downside is that there are two 180 degree turning points for the line on the tip of the arms and even using blocks there (which may have issues with small diameter line getting caught in the sheaves) there is still considerable friction - a killer in light air when you need to have the booms move in any whisper of air.

With a dual arm system you can also easily vary the location of the bitter end of each sheet to vary the amount of movement of the sheet as it is backed off of close hauled. You can then adjust which sail, the jib or main, makes the most initial movement. In light winds and flat water in a puff you want the jib to back off first to keep the powerful main driving, while in rough water and stronger winds you want the pressure of the main to release first and allow the boat to stay on its feet while keeping the jib driving to punch through waves.

There is a great explanation of this, with diagrams, on Lester Gilberts Radio Sailing excellent website,

In a very narrow hull, dual arm systems are about the only option, other than a winch. However, in order to change the take up on a winch you have to use different size drums which are not always available.

Each system has its +/-.


Update....I just talked to Will about my T37X that is on order. I have cut down on the parts (will use my own rig) and he will ship it out next week. Also chatted about his new project documented elsewhere - a US1M Venom from the original Bob Sterne's molds. It's great to have that boat back in production!
Last edited by FoamCrusher; Jan 03, 2013 at 07:33 PM. Reason: New information
Jan 04, 2013, 02:06 AM
Well they say Rome wasn't built in a day and neither is my T50. After getting the winch problem fixed I finally attached the deck today and now waiting for it to cure. I have decided not to use the plastic hatch cover that comes with the kits but I am making hatch covers like Hot Tuna made on his T37 so I spent the rest of this afternoon working on those.
Jan 23, 2013, 07:11 PM
Fokker Ace's Avatar
How's the T50 going?
Jan 23, 2013, 09:21 PM
A final fine sanding then its ready for varnishing. I've been building hatch covers for all three t models. After seeing Hot Tuna's hatch covers I had to replace the covers on my boats. I had some 1/8 by 1/4 ceder planks leftover from the T50 hull so I used those to make frames and then covered the hatches with 1/16 balsa sheet then covered that with some venner that I had on had. A lite coat of West epoxy to waterproof all of that and then I will varnish that when I varnish the boats, It must look good as the wife keeps asking me if I can do that to the floors.
I'll post some pictures when I finish the varnishing.
Jan 28, 2013, 03:50 AM
I have been working on the T50, just not posting. After seeing the hatch covers that Hot Tuna made for his T37 I had to make some for my T fleet. The T50 hull.keel fin, rudder and hatch covers have their first coat of varnish. Tomorrow sanding the pieces then a second coat of varnish. I am also working on my new T37 at the same time.

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