The Tippecanoe Boats Thread - Page 46 - RC Groups
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Jan 17, 2016, 12:26 AM
sra
sra
Registered User

T37 keel location


I'm about ready to glue the keel into my T37 and am wondering about fore/aft placement. I got one answer already, but thought I'd put this out there to see what others might say. Is there any advantage to place the keel a little forward or aft of the plan's central position?

On answer I got (thanks Dave J) is to move the keel aft a couple mm, since the T37 tends to weather in strong winds. So positioning the keel a bit aft shifts the CG closer to the center of pressure on the sails.

Any thoughts on the matter?

Thanks
Steve
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Jan 18, 2016, 11:11 AM
Lucas
It really depends on whether you want to optimize for heavy air or light air.

Keel position has the opposite effect on helm as mast position. On T37, the mast position/rake is not adjustable, but on most boats this is the primary method of adjusting helm balance for varying wind conditions. The keel location is part of the helm balance equation. Lead is the longitudinal distance between the center of effort of the sail plan and the center of lateral resistance (think underwater area). Some lead distance is necessary to balance the weather turning moment caused by the rig heeling to leeward. In higher wind, more heel generally equals more weather helm. Moving the keel aft increases lead distance and adds lee helm. This is good in heavy air when the boat is generally sailing at a large heel angle, but what about light air? With almost no heel, you'll have more lee helm than a boat with a more forward keel.
Jan 18, 2016, 02:42 PM
Registered User
Hi guys

Have any of you had trouble with the rudder/tiller arm bending (ie the ss rod that goes from the rudder to the servo)? Our ones seem to have a lot of whip in them, and keep on bending. Thanks
Jan 18, 2016, 04:32 PM
Kimo
I've had my T37for several years now and had the same problem. I enclosed the pushrod in a thin carbon tube which took care of the problem.
Jan 18, 2016, 10:49 PM
Will fly for food
davidjensen's Avatar
The SS rod is thin and soft.
Feb 08, 2016, 04:30 PM
Registered User
Hi all, Rod here from Arkansas. I'm new to RC, new to sailing, lots of questions as I go along. I just purchased a T47 Schooner from Will. It is somewhere in route. This is kind of a Bucket List project. Something I have wanted to do since I was a boy, long long ago. So now I am doing it. Ultimately I would like to build a semi scale RC square rigger, but that's for later.

For now I need some adult guidance. I have built a lot of control line built up airplanes, during my misspent youth, and have some carpentry skills.

My first question has to do with finishing the boat, how does one put graphics and or lettering on one of these boats and seal them properly?

Second question, I need some basic sailing, as in control and strategy, training. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance,
Rod
Feb 08, 2016, 05:13 PM
a.k.a. Bob Parks
Start here! Lots of info buried in the site.

http://www.theamya.org/
Feb 08, 2016, 06:15 PM
Registered User
This is a great video on finishing a t37, he also has a video on building a t37 which could be helpful.

As far as graphics I made my own vinyl for my df65 racing sloop and after a season of rubbing is racing and a lot of day sailing they're still 100%. Callie can cut all sort of fancy graphics for you. http://www.callie-graphics.com/.

Varnishing and Painting the T37 (2 hr 18 min 1 sec)
Feb 08, 2016, 08:07 PM
Registered User
Dick L.'s Avatar
Only noticed two issues ---
1. He didn't speak to the type of sandpaper used. I recently ran afoul of some older 3M stuff that was aluminum oxide and treated for non (low) clogging of the paper with paint while sanding. I advise to check your paper, and purchase the paper that ISN'T treated. My experience which I had to use both 3M and WEST System tech help was a lot of fisheyes caused by the sterate applied to the paper at manufacture to reduce or eliminate paper clogging. Be advised that fisheyes can occur if the sterate is left behind. I have since switched to non-coated paper that I buy at the local auto store. If the guys are painting autos at $800 + per coat, I'm sure they don't want to deal with a bad paint coat. That's the reason I switched papers.

2. Spraying any finish with volatile (flammable) thinners near heat, open flame or in a confined space that can trap/hold vapors is NOT a safe practice. This includes "rattle cans" of paint. I was surprised to see him spraying a fine mist of thinned paint directly at and over his shop light with a (hot) incandescent bulb. NOT a good or safe practice and I would recommend using an LED light or similar that doesn't get as hot - and not use the switch to turn on or off with paint vapors present.

Just a couple of things that jumped out at me. Great video and lots of good hints and tips.

Dick L.
Feb 08, 2016, 08:19 PM
Registered User
Thanks guys, I have gone though both Will's and Dave's build and painting videos. Learned a lot! On the graphics, I am referring to the hull graphics and lettering. Do the vinyl graphics go on the hull? If so do they go on over the finished paint and clear coat or varnish? or under? I mainly want a nice neat name on the transom, and I am thinking of a beak head trim under the bow sprit, like scroll work on the 19th century ships.

Thanks
Rod
Feb 09, 2016, 12:13 AM
a.k.a. Bob Parks
See this one - ( gotta read every thread )

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=111
Feb 09, 2016, 12:24 AM
Kevin Gault
poltergeist's Avatar
I put the boatname/graphics on over the finished paint/varnish. Some people feel the need to clear over them, but I never have. I just wipe the hull with denatured alcohol before applying.

Kevin
Feb 09, 2016, 09:29 AM
Registered User
Thanks again folks, it appears that Callie's will serve my purpose. They can probably do the bow scroll work too. I just want to leave the impression of the old time bow trim. Sort of a stand off scale look, as we used to say back in my model airplane days.

Rod
Feb 09, 2016, 10:50 AM
Will fly for food
davidjensen's Avatar
We used to call it the 20/20 paint job. Looks good at 20 feet or 20 MPH (preferably both).
Last edited by davidjensen; Feb 13, 2016 at 03:31 PM.
Feb 13, 2016, 03:27 PM
Registered User
Well my T47 Schooner arrived last night, right on schedule. Unfortunately I have a couple of issues. The deck was damaged in shipment, the point at the bow is broken off. When the box was delivered to my front porch it was standing on end! I didn't discover the problem until later that night when I opened the box. I can probably repair that as it will be under the bowsprit anyway. Also the Bulwark Rails were missing. Of course the first step of assembly is to glue the rails to the hull sides. Frustrating, but I am a big boy now and I can take it!

I have a call into Will and sent a couple of emails, but it is a Holiday Weekend! and no one is home.


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