12" Isis G2 UltraLight - Page 3 - RC Groups
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Oct 04, 2012, 01:47 PM
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boredom.is.me's Avatar
Originally Posted by indoor_fr
I know what you are talking about! I have an extra 300 S made at 80%, that is waiting for months to be finished...

Keep on the good work.
I have a GWS A10 that only needs a y-connector for the throttle leads. It's been in that state for about a month...

Will do.
Originally Posted by nemoskull
try to avoid solderin the rx if you can... its a bad idea to do so. (ask me how i know )
What do mean exactly? I have to put some kind of connection on the board.

I just placed an order for 1mm pitch connectors. Everything including the motor will use them
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Oct 05, 2012, 05:56 PM
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i rushed on a rx41 and screwed with it too long. i ended up frying one ESC. i had to send it back. ever since then, i figured with shipping from UK its cheaper/eaiser to hav DT put them on.
just dont rush. wait a very long time. dont do it in a hot room, either.

are you sure there 1mm? io though they were 1.27mm. plantraco gear is 1.27 (IIRC)
Oct 05, 2012, 06:28 PM
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Oh ok.

DT uses 1.27mm pad spacing, but the pads are close enough for 1mm pitch connectors.
Oct 09, 2012, 12:43 AM
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I got the connectors today (technically yesterday). Such so progress...
Oct 17, 2012, 11:45 PM
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So I finally started torturing myself tonight. Soldering the wires to the board is relatively easy compared to soldering wires to the connectors. These 1mm pitch connectors are microscopic compared to the 1.27mm pitch connectors.

I got:
- the actuator plug on the board.
- a servo socket lead made and attached it to the board.
Done for tonight.

Many more nights to go...
Oct 18, 2012, 12:10 AM
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My final receiver weight should be around .4g without the battery lead.
Oct 19, 2012, 02:36 AM
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The receiver is complete. It came out to be a porker, but I'm not sure I can get it any lighter without reducing the mass-less wire. I can replace the motor connector with a 1mm pitch, but 1.27mm is the standard. That alone added .8-.9 of a gram. The battery lead needs a different connector on the end. I'm not sure what a smaller substitute would be though.

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Oct 19, 2012, 10:19 AM
in persuit of low wing loading
Gordon Johnson's Avatar
I can sympathize. Soldering up these RX's isn't easy. And, while the convienence of plugs is nice, the weight adds up quickly. That's why I stick with direct soldered connections on the DT receivers. I soldered up one last week and hated it. It's my least favorite part of a build. I've got the motor leads soldered directly to the RX, as well as the servos and the battery wires.

Oct 19, 2012, 01:13 PM
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I just like to keep everything modular and isolated. If something goes wrong, I can just take that component alone instead of having to completely dissect the plane.

Aside from having connectors, I do like the idea that I can use .8mm pitch next time since I know how to solder the 1mm connecters now. I'm not sure if .8mm connectors come in single rows though.

Today I'll be tackling the servos leads. Tomorrow, I'll attach them to the servos and will do the scariest part (for me), the actuator.
Oct 19, 2012, 02:30 PM
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one thing i did a while back was half wa between plugs and soldering. i soldered leads to the rx, then had the + and - staggared so i did not need insulation. if something went wrong i desoldered the leads and left the brick alone.
Oct 20, 2012, 02:30 AM
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You guys might find this interesting.

It is a 30.4" F3P rendition of the latest version of the Isis.

With that said, I didn't get any more soldering completed. Didn't have the energy or focus for it anyway.
Oct 20, 2012, 07:11 AM
Registered User
Your Rx job looks pretty good to me. It is difficult but a few things have helped me cope with fine soldering:

1. I use 0.27mm solder wire. Thicker solder tends to swamp the pads too quickly.

2. I use a simple 18 or 21W Antex iron. They have 0.5mm tips which are perfect.

3. Commercial tips wear out too quickly for me (even Wellers). So I now use 1.2mm tinned copper wire as the tip. I remove the supplied tip and hold my 1.2mm wire onto the heated part of the iron with a length of K&S brass tube. I file a new bevel on the wire almost each time I use it (while cold). You then need to tin the exposed copper fairly quickly as it comes up to melting temperature to prevent oxidising. I use these tips even for reworking a dry joint on the main chip.

4. A 2x loupe worked well initially but I now use a 5 diopter magnifying lamp.
Cheers, dt.
Oct 21, 2012, 04:38 PM
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I gave the receiver power ans it started smoking...
Oct 21, 2012, 08:24 PM
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that is so sad if ur mucky, you just fried the VR on it....
Oct 21, 2012, 08:53 PM
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I figured out the problem...I think.

Look at the negative input. It would seem as though I accidentally bridged it there. It was only a "tap" of smoke. I caught it right away. Do you think it would be safe to use once I fix the bridge? The smoke originated from the black component in the bottom left corner.

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