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Sep 13, 2013, 02:05 PM
Registered User
Jpop Andrew's Avatar
Finally getting back to work on the Theresa Marie. Update coming soon. But I have (as always) a few questions.

Dan, what battery do you use in Syren? The Turnigy 4.0 battery that Rick recommended has (I think) 4mm banana connectors. Since I'll assume I'll want an extra battery I'm thinking of getting one with Tamiya connectors to match the ESC.

Also, exactly what kind of bullet connectors are those blue and yellow cables on the ESC that go to the motor? I'll need to get some to connect the drive unit so I want to make sure I get the right size and gender . This will be the first time I've ever cut and soldered a wire together.
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Sep 13, 2013, 08:29 PM
Registered User
DanL's Avatar
Dan, what battery do you use in Syren?
For the drive motor, I use just the SLA 6V stock battery.


Also, exactly what kind of bullet connectors are those blue and yellow cables on the ESC that go to the motor?
If it's an MTroniks ESC, they use standard Tamiya plug and socket connectors. Take the parts to the hobby shop and they can match it all up for you.

Great that you are getting back to the build. Sure has been quiet on the SC&H build threads all summer.
Sep 13, 2013, 10:28 PM
Registered User
Jpop Andrew's Avatar

Week 55: Restart


After a five month break from working on the Theresa Marie...

Rudder arm. I drilled two tiny holes and glued in two equally tiny hook-eyes into the top of the rudder shaft adaptor. I can now secure the rudder's arm with a rod and take it off and on as needed.

Rudder servo. Next I glued the mounting tray for the rudder's servo upside down on the inside of the poop deck wall. A line or rod will then connect the servo's arm to the rudder's arm.

After recharging my transmitter battery I powered things up and did a quick test on the rudder. It works! The memory setting on my Futaba 7C is still the Beagle. Ah memories.

Figurehead repair. As expected the figurehead's leading arm got broke. So I decided to turn Starbuck into an armless mermaid. Sorry Starbuck. I used epoxy to add more flowing hair where the arms would have been, and carved the details before it had hardened. It'll work for now.
Sep 14, 2013, 08:30 AM
Registered User
DanL's Avatar
"Rudder servo. Next I glued the mounting tray for the rudder's servo upside down on the inside of the poop deck wall. A line or rod will then connect the servo's arm to the rudder's arm."

Andrew,
Attached sketch shows a typical way to link the rudder servo to the rudder arm. It stiffens and balances the linkage. The wire is stiff piano wire, not flexible wire. Two wires are used, one at each end of the arms. The "Z" bends in the wire help balance the forces and act as shock absorbers for the servo.
The centerline of rotation of the servo must exactly line up with the centerline of rotation of the rudder arm The two linkage wires have to be the same length.
Last edited by DanL; Sep 15, 2013 at 05:57 PM.
Sep 15, 2013, 09:01 AM
Registered User
Jpop Andrew's Avatar

Need fast line connection and adjustment method


Thanks Dan.

It's very important to me that I be able to setup and break down the Theresa Marie for sailing and transport as fast as possible. So I'm looking for the fastest, easiest way to connect the rigging and make adjustments. I don't mind so much if I have a bunch of little non-prototypical objects hanging on my rigging either.

With that in mind, how would everyone do it?
Sep 15, 2013, 02:15 PM
Registered User
DanL's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpop Andrew

It's very important to me that I be able to setup and break down the Theresa Marie for sailing and transport as fast as possible. So I'm looking for the fastest, easiest way to connect the rigging and make adjustments. I don't mind so much if I have a bunch of little non-prototypical objects hanging on my rigging either.

With that in mind, how would everyone do it?
Use the clips SC&H provides and add a "bowsie" wherever frequent adjustment is needed.
See sketch.

ALSO - see the edit I made to the rudder linkage post.
Last edited by DanL; Sep 15, 2013 at 05:58 PM.
Sep 22, 2013, 10:13 AM
Registered User
Jpop Andrew's Avatar

Week 56: Cable port, Keel


Aft access port. I drilled a hole through the deck behind the poop deck wall and epoxied in a 3/4 inch pvc tube. I'll use this for all the aft cables: rudder servo, drive unit, any future goodies I might add, and possibly a bilge pump. Since it will be hidden by the upper deck I made it a full two inches tall to keep any sloshing water out.

Keel rods. Next I took hacksaw in hand and, after careful measuring, cut the 1/2 inch ss threaded rods that will secure the 41 pound keel to the bottom of the ship. I had to do some scoring with a screwdriver to clean up the groves, but it was easier than I was thinking it would be.

Then I found where I had been storing the launching cart for the last year and put the keel in, along with a 3/4 inch oak board to keep it snug. Then on went the Theresa Marie, who weighs less than the keel. I drew some lines onto the keel and ship where the rods openings lined up, and carefully inserted them. Then I screwed the threaded barrels on top. By George, it looks like it works.

Only problem is the back of the keel extends past the rudder's bottom plate, that was attached by SC&H, leaving a small gap. Not sure if I should just leave it or file off part of the keel. Glad I cut the rods long enough either way.

Upper deck supports. Added some pegs and siding rails to support the forecastle deck and poop deck. Not sure how I'm going to secure them in place. I still have some cables and rigging lines that need to go up through them somehow.

Naming day. In honor of one of the local players in my Wolves of the 7 Seas brotherhood from the Pirates: Tides of Fortune game we have a new Theresa Marie recruit: Papaw Rigsby! Because every man who dresses up like a pirate should have an action figure. Arrr....
Sep 23, 2013, 02:56 PM
Registered User
Gammon Iron's Avatar

Fast setup and break down


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpop Andrew
Thanks Dan.

It's very important to me that I be able to setup and break down the Theresa Marie for sailing and transport as fast as possible. So I'm looking for the fastest, easiest way to connect the rigging and make adjustments. I don't mind so much if I have a bunch of little non-prototypical objects hanging on my rigging either.

With that in mind, how would everyone do it?
FWIW, I use elastic cord for my lanyards and hooks on the bottom deadeyes. I just loop on the top of my shrouds to a hook on the mast and hook the deadeyes on to the channels.
Last edited by Gammon Iron; Sep 23, 2013 at 03:00 PM. Reason: forgot the attachment
Sep 23, 2013, 10:20 PM
Damp and Dizzy member
Brooks's Avatar
If the shrouds and backstays are functional, that is, if they are needed to support the mast, then I'd not use elastic. My squarerigger Pamir and topsail schooner Aldebaran have functional standing rigging.

Clips, as illustrated above, are also suspect since they might open under tension. Fishing gear clips that latch shut, on the other hand, should be ok, particularly if they are of the heavy duty variety. Dispense with the swivels that are built into most fishing clips; they are a weak point unless manufactured well (which is impossible to check w/o pulling the clip assembly apart).

The big racing sloops use 80# test line for shrouds, so let that be your guide as to needed clip strength. Or, if you want to actually calculate the forces for your vessel, these 2 posts may assist you:

Righting moment calculation, post #9,
calculation of needed shroud strength, post#25:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1096365

For Aldebaran, the static shroud force is about 8# in a knockdown; I use 20# test Spectra fishing line for standing rigging, giving a factor of safety of 2.5, (not accounting for loss of line strength due to knots, which can be 10-50%, depending on the knot and the workmanship in forming it). The dynamic force would be greater (maybe 2x) but is hard to calculate since it depends on the strength and build-up speed of a wind gust. So far, I've not broken standing rigging or spars, even in knockdowns. Seamanship dictates that one reduces sail when the wind builds; I do that, and perhaps that's why my boats have not lost rigging, so far....

Fishing clips suitable for 20# line would work for my topsail schooner. I'd get bigger ones, though, if I were planning on opening/closing them each time I rigged, since the small ones are hard to operate with cold wet hands :-) You can buy black clips, which might look better than the steel&brass clips normally sold.
Last edited by Brooks; Sep 23, 2013 at 10:51 PM.
Sep 25, 2013, 09:23 AM
Registered User
Jpop Andrew's Avatar
Thanks for the info guys.

Another question. I'm getting ready to pin the deck fittings on. Did anyone make drain holes in the sides of their hatches? It seems like if you don't, any water that splashed through the grates will pool inside.
Sep 28, 2013, 05:35 PM
Registered User
Jpop Andrew's Avatar

Week 57: Deck fittings


Deck fittings. It's been almost a year since I assembled and painted most of the ship's deck features. This week I cut the black plastic that goes inside the three hatches to make it look dark through the grate, and glued them in place.

Next I drilled and epoxied in brass pins for the hatches, gallows bitts and capstan. After very carefully measuring I drilled holes in the deck and glued everything in place using epoxy for the pins and wood glue for the wood. To finish I applied epoxy on the underside of the deck to each slightly protruding pin.

Nice to see the deck looking more like a ship and less like a dance floor.

Forecastle lock. I made a simple jury-rigged looking locking mechanism to keep the forecastle in place with some screweyes, wooden bolt and rubber band. To any non-expert it should just look like some ship's rigging.
Sep 28, 2013, 07:48 PM
Registered User
TBowman's Avatar
Looking good Andrew

Can't believe how fast a year goes...can you? good to see you working on her.

Tim
Oct 02, 2013, 02:44 PM
Registered User
Jpop Andrew's Avatar

Are fore and aft sail control required for your first test sails?


I'm trying to figure out all the rigging before I tackle the masts and I have a question. It says in the SC&H instructions: "The fore and aft sails are the last thing you should worry about adjusting when you are learning to control her with your radio."

How critical is it to control them on this model? Can you actually sail and tack with them in a fixed position, especially if you have a backup drive unit, while you try to figure everything else out? I'm trying to prioritize what steps I have to do before I can do some test sails.
Oct 02, 2013, 03:16 PM
Paratrooper
Paratrooper's Avatar
I sailed Surprise a number of times with staysl's aloft and they are always fixed in position. The jibs won't help much if they are not controlled and the spanker really needs to be hauled in and out if you want it to help with steering. Running down wind with the spanker adjusted well will result in not having to hold windage on the rudder--well close anyway. Holding the rudder over will help hold the wind line and I have done some adjusting with the trim from time to time.

Running into the wind has it's own requirements and constant rudder is always needed whether the fore and aft sails are actually taking wind or not. The real forward capabilities comes with well adjusted square sails.
Oct 02, 2013, 03:47 PM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
An on/off channel could run a winch to brail up or set the spanker as needed when running. The out-haul could come in the along the boom and go below deck beside the mast, the brail goes from the gaff jaws through an eye on the leech, back to the gaff jaws and down through the deck beside the mast. Al in a pull/pull set-up like cross-over jibs.


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