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Old Jan 10, 2004, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by fishdeth
show me a few tips / tricks that I won't have any problem with the covering. I am only nervous, because I just want it to turn out real good. Glad to here that it can be moved & repositioned easily.
I'll give you a shout about the iron when i get her all framed up !

Jim
so do what I did and buy one of those tp cover airplanes and try to cover it. Its smaller so it will breeak easy and it has more small detal eperience. Its easy after you screw with it once.

Brad
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Old Jan 10, 2004, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by RCOrlando
If you have a heat gun it will come in real handt to shrink the covering down tight once you have it covered. Works wonders at removing wrinkles and bubbles
I was wondering what the heat gun was for. I guess I should get one of those for next time.
Old Jan 10, 2004, 06:30 PM
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yeah they help but you can twist your wing or whatnot overdoing it. no a hair dryer wont get hot enough Ive tryed.


does anyone know anything about the process for building vaccume molds to make airplane parts with? Like those flying styro models I thing Pitts Jim bought last.

Brad
Old Jan 10, 2004, 06:35 PM
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not for airplane parts but i have info on vacuuforming stuff in general.

I.e. making the table and heating the plastic etc...
Old Jan 10, 2004, 07:26 PM
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on covering, LHS should have a book called "there are no secrets" or something like that, should be a book just for covering. There is a lot of technique involved and diff methods for solid sheet balsa vs. open frame work.

A few tips:

Get a good iron, I like the coverite 21st cent.

Read the directions for the material, there is a lot of diff temps for diff cover materials.

A iron thermometer is real handy, dont trust the calibrations on the iron

Buy a box of exacto blades by the hundred is cheaper. They dull very quickly when cutting plastic covering, and a dull blade can ruin your day, I usally go thru at least 2 on a small plane.

Don't bother with the gimmicky stuff like special triming tools.

REAL important, vacuum the entire assy after final sanding, then get a tack rag and wipe down all the balsa. Covering stuck to balsa dust will quickly sag and look like heck.


It takes a lot of practice to cover well.
Old Jan 10, 2004, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by RCOrlando
not for airplane parts but i have info on vacuuforming stuff in general.

I.e. making the table and heating the plastic etc...


well turn me on to some of that

Brad
Old Jan 10, 2004, 07:47 PM
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that would be a good start anyway
Old Jan 10, 2004, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by dave morris
on covering, LHS should have a book called "there are no secrets" or something like that, should be a book just for covering. There is a lot of technique involved and diff methods for solid sheet balsa vs. open frame work.

A few tips:

Get a good iron, I like the coverite 21st cent.

Read the directions for the material, there is a lot of diff temps for diff cover materials.

A iron thermometer is real handy, dont trust the calibrations on the iron

Buy a box of exacto blades by the hundred is cheaper. They dull very quickly when cutting plastic covering, and a dull blade can ruin your day, I usally go thru at least 2 on a small plane.

Don't bother with the gimmicky stuff like special triming tools.

REAL important, vacuum the entire assy after final sanding, then get a tack rag and wipe down all the balsa. Covering stuck to balsa dust will quickly sag and look like heck.


It takes a lot of practice to cover well.



Dave,
Thanks for the tips, they are most appreciated !Jim
Old Jan 10, 2004, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by plumb
well turn me on to some of that

Brad
UNfortunately what i have is on paper. It did come from the web several years ago. it's about 500 pages on how to make a strom trooper costume



I can explain the fundamentals of the frame and then go into more detail at the HD field sometime if you go there.

  • Basically you need a good shop vac (the vacuu part of the vacu forming)

    a mold for what you are forming. this can be any solid object that won't melt (something sturdy that won't break up idf you get some plastic stuck)

    a table that you can cut a hole in the center of.

    Plastic sheets for the forming

hook up the shop vac to the hole in the center of the table. make sure it is an air tight seal.

You need a frame that you can hold the plastic sheets in. You can make two square wood frames out of 1x2 and screww them together with a sheet of plastic sandwiched between them.

You will also need to raise your mold off the table over the hole a little so the air can be pulled under the mold. If you use 1x2 to frame the plastic you can use some 1x2 for this also.

Put some foam weatherstrip on the table in the outline of the frames you made for the plastic sheet so when you press down the sheet frame to the table you get an air tight seal.

You want to coat your mold with a release agent. ( i think they said to use vaseline but i don't recall. i will have to look that one up)

Place your mold on the 1x2 stock you ised to raise the mold from the table.

You will need to heat the plastic up to just the point before it melts. Many of the guys that made the costumes said they used their ovens to heat the frame and plastic sheet up. You have to extremely careful though cause if you wait to long and the plastic melts you have one heck of a mess in your oven. Maybe you can come up with a better way to evenly heat the sheets up.

Make sure your shop vac is turned on.

Remove the plastic sheet frame from the oven and quickly press it over your mold being sure to get the frame on the weatherstrip to make an air tight seal.

Wait a few seconds and voila. you have a formed piece.


I hope this helps, at least it may help in your decision to try it. If you do let me know how it works out.
Old Jan 10, 2004, 10:21 PM
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VacuForming


Brad,
you can also build a simple vacuform box so you're not cutting a hole in a table.

Here's Vacuforming 101
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/jw_vac.htm
Old Jan 11, 2004, 08:56 AM
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Covering


After talking to the experts and seeing their work but not being
able to get my models look like what I wanted I broke down
and read the directions that came with the Monokote I was using.
It filled in what I wasn't getting and made all easy.
D
Old Jan 11, 2004, 09:00 AM
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Come on Don... REAL MEN don't read the steenkin instructions !!!


J/K

Jim
Old Jan 11, 2004, 09:03 AM
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Don,
Do you carry "Solite" ?

Jim
Old Jan 11, 2004, 01:08 PM
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Jim. They do. I bought several rolls already. They are in the front of the coating display facing the balsa section.

Steve
Old Jan 11, 2004, 07:21 PM
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Curious.............Anyone fly Saturday and Sunday? If so, where ?

I was busy with visiting out of town family


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