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Old Dec 30, 2012, 08:32 PM
Joe_Wildcat is offline
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Home made canopy for the talon


Here's a few pics of the home made canopy I made for my talon tri. It's a 2.5 liter coke bottle heat shrunk over a wooden plug.
Last edited by Joe_Wildcat; Dec 31, 2012 at 09:23 AM.
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Old Dec 30, 2012, 09:49 PM
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very nice joe...

did you weigh the canopy?

some more info of the cutting of the bottle and how you melted it would be great...

thanks thats a great idea.
Old Dec 31, 2012, 02:03 PM
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More detail how to make your canopy


Here is a video showing most of the process.
canopy (0 min 0 sec)


I copied this technique from other rc group users... look around and you will find other examples. i have used this method to make canopies and wheel pants for my foamies, and decided to make a lid for the tri. You are some what limited by the shape and size of the bottle but with some effort you can get some nice results. The finished weight of mine was about 30 grams. I also attached pic of how I secured it with rubber bands.

Joe
Last edited by Joe_Wildcat; Dec 31, 2012 at 04:57 PM.
Old Jan 01, 2013, 02:52 PM
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very cool...

thanks a lot for that video... makes total sense now.... I ddidnt know those bottles shrank like that LOL.
Old Jan 02, 2013, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe_Wildcat View Post
Here is a video showing most of the process.
http://youtu.be/H-VMOIBPuZA

I copied this technique from other rc group users... look around and you will find other examples. i have used this method to make canopies and wheel pants for my foamies, and decided to make a lid for the tri. You are some what limited by the shape and size of the bottle but with some effort you can get some nice results. The finished weight of mine was about 30 grams. I also attached pic of how I secured it with rubber bands.

Joe
That is friggin clever mate, will have to give that a go for sure.
Old Jan 06, 2013, 05:04 PM
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Hello,

can somebody please explain to me the difference between different prop configurations/rotation in the tricopter setup?!

I see them all and I'm wondering which one to use. I've configured it like the first one below, prop 3 and 2 but I want to understand why !!
thanks!












Old Jan 06, 2013, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrhide View Post
Hello,

can somebody please explain to me the difference between different prop configurations/rotation in the tricopter setup?!

I see them all and I'm wondering which one to use. I've configured it like the first one below, prop 3 and 2 but I want to understand why !!
thanks!
The first pic are the arms folded for transportation, you don't fly it like that, the others are standard flight configuration and then there's the "T" configuration aswell but to get the "CG" right you have to put the battery on the rear boom, the last pic looks like they have aftermarket extended booms on..
Old Jan 06, 2013, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fantomphish View Post
The first pic are the arms folded for transportation, you don't fly it like that, the others are standard flight configuration and then there's the "T" configuration aswell but to get the "CG" right you have to put the battery on the rear boom, the last pic looks like they have aftermarket extended booms on..
oh is that why it's not flying so well ?! yeah I figured that much thanks


I'm not talking about the different position of the sticks... what I mean is the CW (clock wise) or CCW (counter clock wise) PROPS configuration. I've seen 2 same on the right and back AND 2 same of the left and back + all 3 the same .... does it make a difference?! it has to right?

Thanks!
Old Jan 06, 2013, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrhide View Post
oh is that why it's not flying so well ?! yeah I figured that much thanks


I'm not talking about the different position of the sticks... what I mean is the CW (clock wise) or CCW (counter clock wise) PROPS configuration. I've seen 2 same on the right and back AND 2 same of the left and back + all 3 the same .... does it make a difference?! it has to right?

Thanks!
On a Tri... not really because you have a servo to move the rear prop to counteract the yaw you get from having all three props spinning in the same direction. The reason for using both CW and CCW props is to try to balance the reaction yaw as much as possible so you have more identical left and right yaw performance.
In a hover, the two front motors basically cancel each others reaction torque out, leaving the servo to counteract only the rear motors torque.
It's possibly slightly more efficient that way but not significantly different. If you could only buy CW props cheaply then you'd not care much.

Similarly, it doesn't matter which way your rear prop turns as long as it is creating lift at least!! but as long as you have 2 of 1 and 1 of another convention is that the the two front props turn in opposite directions and the rear matches one of the front two (this balances the dis-symmetry of lift generated by the two advancing blades better and minimises inherent roll).
Old Jan 06, 2013, 08:57 PM
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Flipping advice request


I flew my tri yesterday (and stuffed it after a failed flip - more like a loop with a discontinuity at the bottom) but I have to say that the self level appears to be working very well with 1.5FW on my KK2 though I normally fly in rate it's nice to have SL if you're very high up or very far out.

On the flipping flipping issue... can anyone point me to what's the stick input I should be looking for to get a nice tight flip? Add throttle then full back elevator until upright (90deg) reduce throttle to below hover thrust maintaining full read elevator and then add power again as the flying thing gets upright again? (This is similar to a Heli flip which has collective unlike the Tri which is FP)

Or just add throttle and maintain full rear elevator?

And if it still takes ages to come around, increase P? decrease I? decrease D?

Any hints anyone...? Thanks.
Old Jan 06, 2013, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thwaitm View Post
On a Tri... not really because you have a servo to move the rear prop to counteract the yaw you get from having all three props spinning in the same direction. The reason for using both CW and CCW props is to try to balance the reaction yaw as much as possible so you have more identical left and right yaw performance.
In a hover, the two front motors basically cancel each others reaction torque out, leaving the servo to counteract only the rear motors torque.
It's possibly slightly more efficient that way but not significantly different. If you could only buy CW props cheaply then you'd not care much.

Similarly, it doesn't matter which way your rear prop turns as long as it is creating lift at least!! but as long as you have 2 of 1 and 1 of another convention is that the the two front props turn in opposite directions and the rear matches one of the front two (this balances the dis-symmetry of lift generated by the two advancing blades better and minimises inherent roll).

That makes sense now! Thank you very much for that answer!
Old Jan 06, 2013, 09:51 PM
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Warthox has a stick video in slow motion.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1428309

Quote:
Originally Posted by thwaitm View Post
I flew my tri yesterday (and stuffed it after a failed flip - more like a loop with a discontinuity at the bottom) but I have to say that the self level appears to be working very well with 1.5FW on my KK2 though I normally fly in rate it's nice to have SL if you're very high up or very far out.

On the flipping flipping issue... can anyone point me to what's the stick input I should be looking for to get a nice tight flip? Add throttle then full back elevator until upright (90deg) reduce throttle to below hover thrust maintaining full read elevator and then add power again as the flying thing gets upright again? (This is similar to a Heli flip which has collective unlike the Tri which is FP)

Or just add throttle and maintain full rear elevator?

And if it still takes ages to come around, increase P? decrease I? decrease D?

Any hints anyone...? Thanks.
Old Jan 07, 2013, 02:23 AM
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Thanks Fern-ster! So, it's just like a flip on a heli then - which is basically what I was doing... so then I wonder if I need to increase my KK2 AILE/ELEV limits to get a faster flip rate. It seems the difference between front and rear prop thrust is not large enough for a decent flip rate... I'll go try the KK2 thread for that answer.
Old Jan 07, 2013, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by thwaitm View Post
Thanks Fern-ster! So, it's just like a flip on a heli then - which is basically what I was doing... so then I wonder if I need to increase my KK2 AILE/ELEV limits to get a faster flip rate. It seems the difference between front and rear prop thrust is not large enough for a decent flip rate... I'll go try the KK2 thread for that answer.
3D stuff requires a higher stick scaling rate. 100+ type stuff. I've been to chicken to try. Also remember that in loops with a multi rotor you need continues power since there is no wing to create lift like a plane or a heli with high rpm rotor. These props drop lift real quick. Cutting power near the top of the loop can be trouble. I would think to stay on the throttle but with higher stick scaling. I use my 3 position switch to offer 3 levels of responsiveness. 1 highest edgy flight with quick to scary response down to 3 for FPV / video smooth flight.
H
Old Jan 07, 2013, 10:20 AM
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OK shelterock - I see where you're coming from. I'll take a(nother) look at the manual and maybe some vids which I'm sure are around on YT to help me sort it out.


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