1/96 Aluminaut Submarine by Scale Model Castings - Page 5 - RC Groups
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Oct 16, 2012, 08:45 PM
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tchalfant's Avatar
I am not a professional, I think you can do it! This is a fun build and I would recommend it. Plus I love your vision of launching it from an icebreaker.

@profesorul, you are welcome!
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Oct 19, 2012, 03:44 PM
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tchalfant's Avatar
I have ordered a receiver. I will post more if it works, otherwise I will deny it was ever ordered if it does not work.
Oct 25, 2012, 03:23 AM
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tchalfant's Avatar
Another brief delay. My son is in Cub Scouts and he had the rain gutter regatta. So we worked on his boat. At 8, he learned working with a band saw, using an air brush, and using tape as a mask. We reenforced lessons learned the year prior on keeping the boat light. We searched patterns and Sam picked one he thought met the lessons of keeping it light.
O.K. this is a little off topic, but please give me this moment to share. Here is the boat he chose.
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This year is pirate year. Past years were Star Wars, Soldier, Mario Brothers, and the more modern Clone Trooper. As he has been learning about pirates, he struggled with designing a pirate ship and wanting to win a race. Winning was his motivation. But the ship had to have the skull on it.
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It was fun teaching him using a mask, he drew out the skull and cut it out of painters tape using an x-acto knife. Then he painted the sail with an air brush.
Today was race day.
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He won. First place in his division. I think I am at least two inches taller and my chest has puffed out. That is my boy.

Back to the build.
The receiver is in. I am playing with the fit and will document what I find (it is looking good). The light bar is coming along too. I will try to do some part casting this weekend.
Oct 25, 2012, 10:52 AM
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profesorul's Avatar

1_96 Aluminaut

As I can see the LEGACY is all ready past on!.
You mast be VERY PROUD and you have reasons!.
Oct 25, 2012, 11:43 AM
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tchalfant's Avatar
Thank you Marius! That is very kind of you. I am humbled by my boy too! He is so much smarter than I was at his age.
Oct 25, 2012, 12:05 PM
just a ordinairy guy

You can be proud indeed, i wish i had that talent on his age, would have make live a lot simpler now these days.

Keeps us posted with your little big project, i like small stuff, still have a Seehund scale 1/35 waiting to be rc'd

Oct 27, 2012, 05:46 PM
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tchalfant's Avatar
Manfred, I sure will. I am going out today of tomorrow to buy some clear acrylic for casting on the light bar and windows.
Nov 01, 2012, 03:27 AM
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tchalfant's Avatar
Working on the light bar.
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I am trying to catch the essence of the light bar and not an exact match.
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I do not know how some of you guys do the details that you do!
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The red LEDs are just place holders until I get the white LEDs. Behind the LEDs, I am filling in with CA and Baking soda. The intention is to mold with LEDs in, then put the white LEDs in before casting, running the wires up the arms.
These LEDs are 1.6mm
Nov 06, 2012, 12:44 AM
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tchalfant's Avatar
Added the outside lights to the light bar.

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Cleaned up the front a little and filled in the back (it is a bit chunky, but needed to be). I will place the resistors as well as the LEDs in the same area. The only thing going back to the hull will be the arms on each side. In the arms, cast in the resin, there will be a wire embedded on each side and that will supply the electricity. One side is positive and the other is negative.

Making a mold of this will be a challenge, it looks like it will need to be a three piece mold. Suggestions?
Nov 14, 2012, 02:23 AM
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tchalfant's Avatar
Trying to get the hull to the point that I can test water resistance. The portal glass needed to be made.
I used sculpy to take mold of the window/portal openings, created a rubber mold to cast.
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Used Dick Blick's AquaClear resin to cast the lenses.......

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Now I will cut out and polish.
Last edited by tchalfant; Nov 17, 2012 at 11:23 AM. Reason: Clarification
Nov 17, 2012, 01:42 AM
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tchalfant's Avatar
Putting in the cast portal windows, I made a mess in so many ways. So where to begin, I sealed the lenses with CA. CA does not react with the resin like it would with other plastics (I am not an authority on this, I just have not run into fogging with cast resin - others with more experience can speak up), but you can still put it where you do not want it to go and I did. Every single one of my widows had CA on the flat surfaces. I also messed up the frames around the windows (and knocked off my basket - again). It was time to step away from the bench and come back when I was not going to turn green and mash things. That, as it turned out, was a good thing to do. I created a mini polisher using my foredoom and some brass that I made.
I painted the edges aluminum (because the pictures I have of it in use the bezels were silver in color. That did not look good, but it did help cover the missing paint from were CA was cleaned up from.
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The flat end of my custom polisher, I would dip in CA, put a piece of sandpaper on and trim it close to the brass. Beginning with 400 grit, 600 grit and 800 grit, then used 4000, 6000, and 12000 wet sanded each portal. In-between each grade it was easy to peel the old sandpaper off, dip the end of the polisher in CA and move on.
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I repeated polishing until the surfaces were smooth and mostly free of CA. The bezels still look like heck, so I might paint them back to blue.
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Yes, I know not as good as I wanted to, but they are on!
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After this, I did a water test and had some water leak in. It came from the aft end of the tube. I can see that the gasket does not seem as tight, so will play with that in a day or so. see what happens. In the mean time will begin to test electronics.
Last edited by tchalfant; Nov 19, 2012 at 07:21 PM.
Nov 19, 2012, 07:51 PM
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tchalfant's Avatar
Water test was done in the tub....I mean test tank2. The aluminaut was empty inside and I was surprised at how buoyant this little sub is. I searched for a good amount of weight and did not have enough to sink it, so I used the tried and true method, I held it underwater. My patience was short so I doubt it was more than a minute or 2, MAXIMUM. When I opened it up, I had water in the aft end of the tube (a half a teaspoon to guesstimate - a lot for the short time). Happy I tested it without electronics, sad that I have to tackle this. Plan of action is take out the 0-ring and wrap the groove with Teflon tape. Re-assemble and test again. What have you done to tighten the seal?

I began playing with the ballast tank - it will be a piston tank. Not a proportional or variable tank more of a full/empty tank. With the tank full the sub will be slightly negative buoyancy (the prop on top will allow for movement up and down) and with the tank empty it will float. Maybe if I can get this to work, I can sell a billion of them and live in a cabin away from society.... oh! Was that my out loud voice? Sorry.

The light bar needs a little work on the two arms that go to the main body, then I will play with casting it up. I know, I keep mentioning it.....just trying to build up the strength to tackle it. I do not think it will be smooth process.
Nov 20, 2012, 12:45 PM
derk's Avatar
With these thin tubes, be sure to leave the sub all apart after use as it can distort from the o-rings. That can cause a bad seal later on.
Nov 20, 2012, 05:06 PM
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tchalfant's Avatar
Thank you for that tip!
So Derk, I did leave the aft piece in as I worked on the front, Do I need to replace the tube? if so recommendation for a replacement?
Nov 21, 2012, 04:47 AM
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profesorul's Avatar
We ALL are with You so keep going!!!.
Because I am not so Skilled/Patience as You I make these one:



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