Exceed "Dragon Snap" 720 EP performance questions - MINI REVIEW - Page 6 - RC Groups
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Sep 25, 2012, 05:17 PM
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JGuilty13's Avatar
Shoc, I would greatly appreciate it if you could upload your programming sheet for the stock esc.....whenever you are able to! Thanks so much.
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Sep 25, 2012, 05:20 PM
Boaters are nice people.
If the stock ESC has the most common Chinese software on it, this may work:

Regards, Jan.
Sep 25, 2012, 07:53 PM
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List of new items or things done:
1. New motor 2860/2730kv (y wind), also got a motor thrust bearing
2. New all aluminum water sleeve
3. New ESC, Seaking 90
4. New bullet prop nut
5. New collet from motor shaft to flex cable
6. Had to mod the wood platform so that I could access the collet
7. Re-routed the cooling lines, motor first ESC second
8. Soldered the new connectors onto the ESC (motor side and battery side)
9. Soldered a couple of new sets of connectors onto my 3S batteries
10.Programmed ESC successfully with my TX, (ended up setting the timing to 7.5 to start)

Things to do:
1. Move or install new battery mount further up in the hull centered either paralleled or perpendicular, (have not decided)
2. Fix collet problem, (may have to buy a new one) may add a tiny bit of solder to the flex shaft where the collet grips it or score the flex and collet.
3. Start stepping the prop up, currently at around 35mm (pre shaping and grinding so probably to small at this point)
4. Seal the transom all around the edge where it meets the hull (note the arrows in photo below and it never leaked before) but had to adjust the teflon tubing so had to remove.. now it leaks.
5. Possibly will just get either a 3/16 stinger or at least a 4mm (the actual flex cable), currently min is 3mm

Did a leak test and found a nice leak coming from within the stuffing tube. I think I narrowed it down to leaking right at the hull/ transom. I put some plumbers putty around the outside of it and it seemed to stop.I tightened the heck out of the 4 screws but that didn't help,and I ran it anyway with the putty.

Got everything set yesterday enough to take her for a spin.
The new motor/ flex shaft collet didn't work so hot first run, it didn't grip tight enough even though I thought I had it cranked way down, even starting out very very slow. Second run I had it as tight as i could get it, (JG take note, I think we will need to score the inside of the collet and flex shaft length wise to give it a tiny bit more grip), maybe they sell a smaller chuck....I didn't see a smaller one on OC's site, maybe I overlooked it. Anyhow just crank it down big time.

Was a good run, very nice jump in speed and I'm sure I will see more speed after I adjust the battery to a more suitable CoG.

This ESC is smooth, it really responded well to the controller, I think that might be why there is no soft start.

The temps on the motor and ESC were nothing after the first 45 seconds,, then ran for 2 mins, still nothing, then ran for 3 min still nothing, barely warm. I think a prop step up is in order, I think I will try 38mm (after I balance it, it seems to be much smaller). The current one you see in the photos just didn't get it on a plane fast enough course I was being very gentle with the excelleration due to my concerns over the collet grip issue. Any suggestions here and I am all ears.

The images are with my iphone so not as crisp as my other images. Noted with arrows the seal where I think its leaking then inside at the stuffing tube/teflon liner.
Sep 25, 2012, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by pompebled
If the stock ESC has the most common Chinese software on it, this may work:

Regards, Jan.
That looks like the same sheet if memory serves me correctly, but I will upload the one I have tomorrow evening just to make sure.
Sep 26, 2012, 04:03 PM
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JGuilty13's Avatar
Hmm, Shoc, youve got me a bit concerned about the new coupler (mine just arrived yesterday). I have not tried installing any of my new components yet since Im trying to get as much life out of the stock system for now. Ive searched high and low for a different style 4mm to .13 flex cable coupler and have not been able to find any other than one we got from OSE.

What is your plan to get the coupler to grip the stock flex shaft better? What size is our stock flex shaft?

I found these.....do you think either of these would work better?
1) http://www.ebay.com/itm/coupling-fle...item231b2fbf1a

2) http://www.ebay.com/itm/BR-3-18mmx4m...item3cc3673be0

The second one looks pretty cool actually.

Second Edit, just ordered the second one....I'll let you know how it works compared to the OSE one.
Last edited by JGuilty13; Sep 26, 2012 at 09:08 PM.
Sep 27, 2012, 10:40 AM
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Yes, the OSC one is very bulky to say the least. Im not sure the ones you listed will work, If I am reading them correcly it looks like it is 3.18mm shaft to 4mm flex cable, we need 4mm shaft to 3mm flex cable with our current builds. Also for some reason I can't find the paper with the ESC settings even though I just had it a few days ago when I was programming my new one. When I find it I will put it up here but the one jan has up there is good.

I have scored the flex cable where it touches the inside of the OSC coupler and scored the inside of the coupler itself. Will try it out today see if I have any issues. That said, I was able to tighten it enough the first time to not have issues (but was very easy on the throttle when starting up).

I will be ordering a new stinger that is 4mm or 3/16 flex cable.
Last edited by Shoc RC; Sep 27, 2012 at 10:45 AM.
Sep 27, 2012, 10:54 AM
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JGuilty13's Avatar
Shoc, I believe the second coupler that I listed can just be turned around to use in either direction (hopefully lol). What did you use to score the flex cable and inside of the OSE coupler?

Do you have a link to the new 4mm stinger that you're thinking about? I feel that that would probably be more convenient....
Sep 27, 2012, 12:03 PM
Boaters are nice people.
Hi Jordan,

That coupler is for solid shafts, if you're lucky, it'll work on a flexshaft too, but I wouldn't hold my breath..., or rely on it working properly.

What you need is something like this:

That is, if the Chinese didn't 'invent' another flexshaft size; 3 mm in stead of the far more common 3,2 mm flexshaft...
This one should also work:

Regards, Jan.
Last edited by pompebled; Sep 27, 2012 at 12:10 PM.
Sep 30, 2012, 09:06 PM
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JG, I put a small band of solder around the flex shaft a temp thing until I decide on a new stinger. I scored the inside of the coupler and the shaft with a hobby file. OSC was out of the 3/16 one so looking at the 4mm ones from PROMISE hobby on eBay. Have not pulled the trigger yet but going to soon.

Jan, the new setup is def. faster. I used the 440 prop, testing it gradually and had almost no heat increase. Only got three short runs before it started to pour rain. Going to try more runs tomorrow and hope to have some video up soon.
Oct 04, 2012, 10:23 AM
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JGuilty13's Avatar
Just wanted to report that my Exceed 720ep is still going very strong on the stock components! Only thing that is not stock is the prop...I have the Venom 3-blade aluminum which works awesome.

I forget which member recommended taking the cooling jacket off and repositioning it so the exit tube was directly on top, but doing this has greatly decreased motor temps. After running three 3s 3300mah 35-70c packs in a row the motor is barely even warm now. I still have not installed my new Leopard motor or T120 esc, but here is a video I took last weekend. This is towards the end of the pack when it was starting to slow a bit.....but you get the point. Love this little thing and am excited to put the upgrades in soon.

Exceed RC Dragon Snap 720ep - stock electronics (0 min 55 sec)
Last edited by JGuilty13; Oct 05, 2012 at 10:14 AM.
Oct 05, 2012, 11:33 PM
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Here are some vids with my current above listed setup, it's working pretty good guys, not even getting hot, I can put my finger on everything, thats after 5 minutes. Guess the only thing to make it faster is to put two 3s in the boat.

FE 720 Dragon Snap (4 min 12 sec)

FE 720 Dragon Snap (3 min 54 sec)
Oct 06, 2012, 08:51 PM
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JGuilty13's Avatar
Shoc, great videos! Do you notice much more performance from the new leopard motor? I know your KV is close to the stock KV, but yours has a longer can so it should have more torque. How is your coupler from OSE working out? Is it holding the flex shaft pretty well?

My leopard is a bit higher at 2960KV, but I don't have it installed yet....still waiting on the T120 to show. Anyway, good job with the boat, it's a great little model....actually just ran mine in some VERY rough water and it was an absolute blast. Hit some major waves and luckily never had it flip......unfortunately no video though. I'll definitely put up video once the upgraded motor is put in.
Mar 27, 2013, 07:26 PM
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I have this exact boat with the stock setup (except for the venom aluminum prop). I currently have a little issue that I was hoping you all may be able to assist with. I am running a 4000mah 3S 40c~80C SkyLipo and after about 4 minutes I am losing about 50% power. So, I bring it in and everything is as it should be. The motor is barely warm, the ESC is not even warm, the battery is cool, and everything appears fine. I pull the battery and charge it, and it reads almost 4V per cell. They are all within .01V, so it is well balanced. Fully charging it only holds about 2000mah at most. I thought maybe the battery was faulty, so I tried out 2 3S nano-techs at 2650mah each, thinking this should give me better run times. I was only able to run about 5 minutes with those before losing most of the power again. Same thing..The batteries were all 3.9V to 4V and within .01V balance. Is it possible that the motor loses power after it warms up? It does NOT get hot, just barely warm, and I mean BARELY warm. Any comments would be greatly appreciated. I just don't know which direction to go. I was expecting around 10 minutes of full power out of the 4000mah and possibly 12-14 out of the 2 2650mah packs. Let me know if there are any questions.

Thanks, Lance.
Mar 27, 2013, 10:10 PM
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JGuilty13's Avatar
Titans, 2650 packs will give you tops 6-7 minutes of mixed throttle on the stock system, my 3700 packs give me about 10-11 minutes, but I do a lot of easy cruising as well when I run it. Your stock system seems spot on. This boat can handle large batteries without problem.
Mar 28, 2013, 07:31 AM
Boaters are nice people.
Hi Lance,

If your ESC cuts in too soon, the runtime will be shorter than you'd expect.
Check on which Voltage the LVC setting is, if possible, go down one setting.

Run your boat and keep an eye on the runtime and the boatspeed, as soon as the speed drops and you've been running for 6-7 minutes, bring the boat in and check the Voltage as soon as possible.

As long as the lipo recovers to 3,7V per cell after a few minutes you're in the green.

When running higher capacity lipo's, the longer runtime will increase heat build-up in all components, so making sure the outlet on the cooling jacket
is at the highest point ensures a completely filled cooling jacket without trapping air inside.

Regards, Jan.

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