HMS Scorpion (Cruiser class Brig of War) - Page 8 - RC Groups
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Nov 03, 2012, 07:27 PM
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DanL's Avatar
Great guns!
By now, I realize you really don't need any help, but I can't resist throwing in the old 2-cents-worth...

Your comment: "Will be making my own scale rope..."

Making rope for Syren turned into a hobby in itself. I'm sure you would both enjoy and excel in it. But there is a really excellent alternative in fish net twine, available from at least two sources. I learned about it from the ship modelers at the Erie Maritime Museum. It's available in many diameters, in tan and black (for running and standing rigging), is very low stretch and looks really great.
I posted sources, diameter info etc. I would definitely use the net twine if doing it again.
If you do twist your own, I have a lot of data on threads tested, numbers of threads to get specific final diameters, etc. Can share if you need it, but, frankly, I think you will do a superior job on your own...
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Nov 04, 2012, 10:37 AM
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TBowman's Avatar
Originally Posted by Jpop Andrew
Tim I get the feeling you're building an A-10... building the ship around the guns! They look great.
Hi Andrew

What can I say? I like things that go BOOM! The more, the better.

Carronade test frills, just igniter and powder. More experimenting to come.

Dan, thanks for the fish net twine suggestion. Anything that saves time is good with me. Will look into it. You advice on these models is worth much, much more then 2-cents.

Last edited by TBowman; Nov 05, 2012 at 04:13 PM.
Nov 04, 2012, 01:37 PM
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DanL's Avatar
Possibly share carronade load details, please??? Powder spec, load size, wad, igniter info, etc?
Would like to learn from your work...
Nov 04, 2012, 11:40 PM
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TBowman's Avatar
Hi Dan

If I had details I would be happy to share. LOL so far it's only basics. Powder + fire = more fire. Will start keeping track of measurements, foam wads, ignition wire position etc and resulting effects. So far I just wanted to make sure the parts could handle a substantial load and provide half-way descent effects.

When I get deeper into it, I will definitely share details and effect results.

In the mean time, I revisited the 6 pounder carriage to finalize it. On the bottom of the front axle, there is a mounting hole. In theory, this lines up in the same position as my carronade's mounting hole. So, if at some time I want to move guns around, I can without any issues. Probably missing something but it seems feasible. ha ha With the carronades taking shape, I have the need to get the 6 pound barrels mounted too.

Also, in or to keep the hull moving forward, I drew the first roughs of the fixed blocks for tacks and sheets. These will simply be pushed in from both inside and outside of the hull/deck through holes I will drill and file. The block could easily(and likely will be) a functional one with rotating center wheel. These drawings are just to get them in the computer. Also not sure of sheet and tack diameters. Dan? : ) Will look through your thread again. Also not 100% sure these can be made functional with RC running rigging. At any rate, they'll be installed.

shown on the hull.

Unfortunately, because of my strake detail, I can't place these where I would like so they will have to go a bit higher.

Nov 05, 2012, 08:46 PM
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DanL's Avatar
"Also not sure of sheet and tack diameters. Dan?" :

My Petraeus (sp?) Brig Irene and other references are still in a box somewhere after the move.
If I remember right, I think I used 1.2mm line.
Petraeus has a rigging table for a 1/50th scale model. I simply doubled his numbers for standing and running rigging line sizes.
Anyone have a Brig Irene book handy to answer the above question for Tim?

I have dummy forecourse sheets rigged through bulwark blocks, but the others are unused. Working sheaves aren't necessary - I ran the line around short lengths of stationary delrin rod.

( I did make the Syren line, but don't recommend it given the beautiful net twines available in many diameters. It takes MUCH more thread to make a length of tight, non-stretching line than one might think, especially the larger diameters (2-3mm range).
Nov 05, 2012, 08:51 PM
Paratrooper's Avatar
Dan, I yust noticed dat ya are still up der in Minneapolis on yer registered user block. Now dat ya haf moofed up nort ya might wanna fix dat, ya sure you betcha.
Nov 05, 2012, 10:44 PM
Registered User
TBowman's Avatar
Thanks Dan

I have "the brig Irene" LOL guess I could use my own reference material huh? I'll check that and a rigging book I have.

Just checked. in 1:24 scale they measure:

mainsail sheet 1.65mm
mainsail tack 2.08 mm

foresail sheet 1.50mm
foresail tack 1.85mm

Looks like 1.5 mm (+ or - )should cover them all.

Don't mean to get too wrapped up in it but wanted to be close. Especially before I make the blocks.

thanks again Dan
Last edited by TBowman; Nov 05, 2012 at 11:33 PM.
Nov 06, 2012, 12:44 AM
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Jpop Andrew's Avatar
Wow awesome pics of your firing guns Tim.

If you make some slightly irregulars or a couple of extras of your six pounders the Theresa Marie would be proud to feature them as her forecastle bow chasers. I'll name one of the Theresa Maries after you

Also, I saw that you got the US and British flag like I did. I'm thinking now that I'd rather have two US flags, so if you would like to do a swap for my extra RN flag at some point let me know.
Nov 06, 2012, 09:27 AM
Registered User
DanL's Avatar

Gun Rigging

Since you are working on guns, look at this post with info from SC&H on line sizes for gun rigging:

Here's a summary of line sizes from Memphis Net & Twine:
#6 = 0.9mm (est)
#7 = 1.0 (est)
#9 = 1.15 (measured)
#12 = 1.25 (measured)
#15 = 1.4 (measured)
#18 = 1.6 (measured)
#21, #24, #30 etc neither measured or estimated, but I am getting samples to measure.

Tip - you likely know already - in 1/24 scale, you can use 1mm = 1 inch as a pretty close conversion. Makes it easy to translate when scratchbuilding....
Nov 06, 2012, 11:04 AM
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TBowman's Avatar
Thank you Dan

I found the dimensions just last night. Have ordered several sizes as well. Your timing on the gun tackle is perfect. Many thanks for the direct link and the detailed post.

Another book I have on rigging 'merchant ships', has the sheets and tacks at 1". As you said, just over 1mm. I'll finish my blocks so they will accommodate 1.5 inch dia. This will also help with the cathead block dimensions, which is next on my list.

Hi Andrew, Thanks, I'll keep the ensign in mind.

happy building and sailing
Last edited by TBowman; Nov 06, 2012 at 01:58 PM.
Nov 06, 2012, 02:13 PM
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DanL's Avatar

Blocks, etc

I ended up sizing gun tackle blocks at L=7mm, based on dims taken from the Brig Niagara carronades.
Cathead blocks (are you referring to the triple for weighing anchor, or the running rigging blocks?) I think are L=12mm

Very nice blocks, operating and non-, are available from:

I used very few operating blocks. Made those. Used delrin sheaves turned from brown delrin rod.
Nov 06, 2012, 04:42 PM
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DanL's Avatar


In case you are interested, here are the links to ropemaking that I posted. Included is a PDF with a table of thread characteristics, count vs final D, etc etc.
It was posted in Jerry Todd's Constellation thread. I can't even remember where I posted half this kind of stuff....

One pic shows a peg-like device marked at L=10mm and 20mm. You snugly wind line around the peg, count the turns per 10 or 20mm, then calculate the line thickness, e.g 10 turns per 20mm is a line D of 2mm.
Nov 06, 2012, 04:45 PM
Registered User
TBowman's Avatar
Hello Dan

You are being very helpful and I really appreciate it.

I'm referring to the fixed blocks in the catheads. I'l detail those two parts out next. It will not have working blocks but need to add the holes and "look" of the blocks.

Hope to have my fixed block parts for the hull before the weekend along with the 6 pounder carriages. Very excited to get those.

take care
Nov 08, 2012, 04:05 PM
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TBowman's Avatar
More minor progress

Started thinking about the detailing of the head of the ship. A few "accuracy vs. simplicity" challenges have arose that I need to work through. More on that soon. The port side is now scribed and the detail strake is added so one big step behind me. Positioned the channels and prepared the pin locations.

Nov 09, 2012, 12:28 AM
Registered User
Jpop Andrew's Avatar
Looking good Tim. Are you going to do the epoxy + denatured alcohol bath on the channels that Dan suggested? Or did you make plastic channels?

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