Venom GPV-1 steering issues -Please help. - RC Groups
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Aug 21, 2012, 11:22 AM
Registered User

Venom GPV-1 steering issues -Please help.


Just bought my first RC bike today and been out all day practicing. Just got a few issues i hope i can have addressed.

How do you guys set up the steering so its straight, i for the life of me cant do it, all i seem to do is just steer left and right, also i cant make sharp turns. I need a shopping center carpark to even make a turn let alone on my double lane street .. It just seems to lean to much and the sit on the scrapers and turn that way. Is this correct?

I did play with the steering rods but that didn't seem to make it work. I played with the end rates on the tx no go there. Also it just doesn't want to center when i let go of the steering.

any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Aug 21, 2012, 11:44 AM
vegos's Avatar
Take a look here:

What I suggest is to loosen the springs of the steering linkage (tight the lock screws when they are almost uncompressed).
Try to center the front wheel using the lock screws on the linkage. You don't care if it has a little angle, as you can fix this later from the steering trims of your TX.
Third, lower the EPA of the steering on your TX. As far as you are going a better driver, you can tighten the steering springs.
A carpark is the best way to start. Try to make turns with soft movements on the TX and battery by battery you'll be able to steer better.
Also these bikes need some speed to stand up, go straight and steer. And yes, a big carpark too.

Venom GPV1 is my favorite bike, but it needs a road/parking very good traction, something that here is almost impossible to find.

And don't forget that you're driving a bike. You have to drive it like a real bike, calculate when you have to start the turn, where and how to hold the throttle and where to exit.
Aug 21, 2012, 12:40 PM
Closed Account
Are you 'flicking' the steering to turn and not 'holding' the steering on because holding the steering in a turn makes it stay laid down, dragging the scratchbars and gives you runaway understeer. Ooops, almost forgot. Use the throttle to get out of the turn, not the steering.

GPV's out of the box with the aforementioned mods done turn quite nicely, find a grippy enough surface and they will handle more lean even with the shockingly hard kit tyres.

all i seem to do is just steer left and right
Further oops I almost forgot. Ensure that the fairing or anything else can't catch the steering, the wheels etc and that the steering is unimpeded lock to lock. Hold the bike vertical in your hand by the rear and 'waggle' it. The front wheel should flop side to side with ease.

Oh yes, NEVER give in! You'll get the sweet spot soon enough.

Here is what someone with better thumbs than me can do with a stock GPV

Moto Venom GPV 1 0001 (1 min 33 sec)
Last edited by Jonathan Bradbury; Aug 21, 2012 at 12:59 PM.
Aug 21, 2012, 10:03 PM
Registered User
No, never flick i have that habit from racing cars and flying choppers.. I'm always trying to be as smooth as possible. i checked for any binding and there isn't and i did most of the modifications mentioned that helped with that. I rotated the ESC and relocated the receiver to the back seat cowl. I mean i ride motorbikes so baffles me when i try and do a slow corner turn it just falls and under steers and when i do apply throttle its to late. I'm thinking i might have screwed up the damper and where the springs sit, i kind of compressed them so that when i let go it quickly centers the wheel back to middle position.

I might invest in a proper steering damper for the bike.

Also in the GPV-1 Tips section on the forum i'm slightly confused with where the steering servo needs to be.. Does it need to be 90 degrees as the first picture is 90 degree's and the 2nd image is not 90 degree's... atm mine sits like:

Not like:

so which one of the above is the right one? im confused.
Aug 21, 2012, 11:10 PM
Registered User
it should be the second pic. The servo arm should be 90 degrees with the springs.
Steering the gpv is a bit tricky at first. It took me around 4 or 5 months driving it in a big parking lot before I was able to drive it in a two lane street. It is top heavy so you might try removing the rider first or putting some weights on the bottom and gradually transitioning to no weights or with rider. More importantly, read and read over and over again the tips and tricks.
Once you get it, its really a FANTASTIC feeling especialy when you are already able to wheely at will or do power slides coming from a turn or corner!!!
Just a warning............once you get it, there will be no turning back! You will be hooked!!!!!!
Have fun!

Aug 21, 2012, 11:21 PM
Registered User
Hehe, thanks guys i'm looking @ getting a collection, starting with Kyosho HOR mark2 that i'm buying.

I do wanna get alot better at it to the point where i can race my mates in there Tamiya mo3 and 05 around the track :d
Aug 22, 2012, 06:56 PM
Registered User
What a night,

Took the bike out last night and did some practicing. Got alot better at hold it straight and making turns but still cant do tight turns, i guess that will come with practice over the weeks or even months.

I dropped my lipo i use in my f1 cars into it and it fits under the car perfectly but i cant fit the fairing over it properly. I did the steering servo fix and what a difference that made.

God the bike is so much fun !
Aug 22, 2012, 08:11 PM
grymg's Avatar
Remember, how tight you can turn is affected by lean angle and speed, so to make tight turns your bike has to be fully leaned over with little or no throttle at all. . . . with almost no input required on your steering wheel also.

So try going straight, turning the steering wheel to initiate the turn, then backing off the throttle to very low, at the same time let go of the steering wheel. Then when you want to come out of the turn, slowly increase the throttle. Resume steering control once the bike is upright again.

It will come naturally soon for you. Being fluid with the throttle and controls is key. It is fun, yes!!!
Aug 25, 2012, 05:58 PM
Registered User
bigjoeg's Avatar
As far as a steering dampner if you have access to team assioated 18 t shocks they work great you need the shock shaft of the rear because the length and the front shock body put the two together with some 25 wt shock oil to start out and you set .thick oil for high speed long straighten and lighter oil for more curve tracks
Aug 25, 2012, 06:24 PM
in memory of dez RIP
rcphreak's Avatar
be sure to take the time and read the tips and tricks thread by dez82 alot can be learned .
Aug 26, 2012, 12:48 AM
Registered User
I have been reading it and have done most of the mods. Only issue i still have is to make the steering dead straight, and i also screwed up the little alloy part that holds the steering springs to the servo... not to happy about that as it only screwed up after undoing it once and re-tightening it after i did the 90' servo arm change.
Aug 26, 2012, 12:09 PM
in memory of dez RIP
rcphreak's Avatar
on the springs loosten the collers so that each spring has no tention but just touching the spring it will make a world of difference i had this same issue when new . remember dont change more than one thing at a time a little change goes a long way remember the scale your dealing with and when too much is changed you can in fact make it drive worse than when you started .

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