Ready to fly
80oz with 3s 4500mA 45C lipo
75oz with 3s 2200mA 60C lipo
E-Flite Power-32 brushless motor
Castle Creations Phoenix 80A ESC
Castle Creations 10A switching BEC
14.5x9.5 CAM folding prop and turbo cooling spinner
80oz with 3s 2200mA lipo and JVC Adixxion HD1080p video camera
86oz with 3s 4500mA lipo and Adixxion camera
ImagesView all Images in thread
Last edited by DeadstickDuck; Nov 05, 2012 at 05:20 AM. Reason: 150w/lb.
OK major frustruation.
I cannot get the aileron linkages set up correctly. I've bent the linkage rod but it's almost impossible to get the linkages attached to both ends and get the appropriate throws. The design problem appears to be the angle from the servo arm to the control horn, aggravated by the brace at the rear of the servo opening.
Otherwise, it's been a delight to build.
I'm thinking that I can mount the servo to the cover (Exactly per the instructions) but use a longer arm and have the servo arm come out of the cover (After cutting an appropriate slot sorta like the slot that the flap cover already has but doesn't need!). Essentially, I'd be flipping the servo arm 180 degrees and the control rod would end up being parallel to the bottom of the wing rather than at an angle.
By moving the rod end from inside the wing to outside the servo cover, I'll eliminate the sharp angle and allow easier setup. I can still use the 20 degree offset to get differential ailerons with this setup.
Other than a bit more drag and a bit more ugly, am I missing some issue?
Thanks for comments.
Guys, in the coming weeks we plan to put together a construction video to help with some of the challenges you are facing. I checked the linkages on the ones I have built and none have any bends. If it’s your first time installing internal linkages I can completely understand your challenges.. A small suggestion that may help is to load the clevis on one side only, the servo side, then put the pushrod through the exit hole. Now it’s a simple matter of winding on the external clevis to the desired length.
Obviously this was an oversight on my behalf on the complexity of this procedure, having done many sailplanes prior myself it's an easy trap to fall into thinking everybody knows how to do this.
As for flap angle, it was set at 20deg intentionally and the mechanical limits that you are seeing were intentional. The reason for this is most pilots new to using flap for landing a sailplane forget to retract the flaps on touch. Understanding this we decided to limit the flap travel to prevent the flaps being lowered to far and damaging the wing on touch down. At the recommended 20deg of flap, you can land with the flaps down and not damage them or the wing. If you need or want more flap travel you may have to bend pushrods, or extend the opening however I have no testing on this to share with you.
Glad to see your all enjoying the flying characteristics of the model and I do enjoy reading your experiences.
Please keep the questions coming and I will do my best to answer them.
|Category||Thread||Thread Starter||Forum||Replies||Last Post|
|For Sale||New in the box E-Flite Taylorcraft ARF Kit plus High Performance E-Flite components||Philscho||Aircraft - Electric - Airplanes (FS/W)||4||Aug 19, 2012 12:25 AM|
|Sold||E-flite Habu 32 ARF with E-flite Motor/Fan/Retracts/ESC/lipo||ton2di||Aircraft - Electric - Jets (FS/W)||3||Aug 16, 2012 07:42 PM|
|Sold||(2) E-flite Power 32's, (2) E-flite 60a ESC, all NIB||cybercrxt||Aircraft - Electric - Power Systems (FS/W)||8||May 17, 2012 01:53 PM|
|Discussion||E-Flite Taylorcraft 450 ARF Kit and High Power E-Flite electrical components $300||Philscho||Hot Online Deals||1||Mar 02, 2012 08:11 PM|
|Wanted||WTB Art Hobby 2.5M or 2.9M e-glider||rrweather||Aircraft - Sailplanes (FS/W)||0||Sep 12, 2005 11:09 AM|