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Old Oct 26, 2012, 08:53 AM
mertz is offline
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My flap linkages are binding also. I am going to try rotating the servo arm more. The book calls for an offset from center, I am going to try one more tooth on the servo. If that doesn't work I will try plan B.
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Old Oct 26, 2012, 09:59 AM
Rickn816 is offline
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Which way? Do you intend to move the arm toward the leading edge (increase the angle) or back (decrease the angle)? I set mine to the specified 20 degrees.

RickN
Old Oct 26, 2012, 11:53 AM
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I spent some time making up a multiplex connector for my flap and aileron servos. Now i can't get them mixed up anymore!
Old Oct 26, 2012, 12:14 PM
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My aileron servos seem pretty happy but I do have some binding on my flaps. I think that the connector at the servo is hitting the post but its hard to tell. I may try moving the servo arm toward the trailing edge by one or two splines.
Old Oct 26, 2012, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickn816 View Post
Which way? Do you intend to move the arm toward the leading edge (increase the angle) or back (decrease the angle)? I set mine to the specified 20 degrees.
Not sure yet Rick. I just completed the build, now I am waiting for a cup of coffee and then I will sit down and take a look at the wings.

I was really impressed at how well a little glue stick holds the elevator sections on!
Old Oct 26, 2012, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by CarlMalone View Post
My aileron servos seem pretty happy but I do have some binding on my flaps. I think that the connector at the servo is hitting the post but its hard to tell. I may try moving the servo arm toward the trailing edge by one or two splines.
Just starting to test fit some of the hardware. Yes the flap mechanics and linkage don't look like they will do the job. Plan B. I'm thinking my flap drive is going to be on the bottom of the wing as I'm sure I'll want 3 times the suggested flap travel of 25 degrees. Has anyone figured out the wing section? Mine measured about 9.25% thick with measurable undercamber. Does not seem like the thicker almost flat bottom S 3021, or is the SD3021 labled on the box something new?

EK
Old Oct 26, 2012, 04:07 PM
PrimeFlyer is offline
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Originally Posted by vhuang168 View Post
Are you guys having issues with the flap or aileron servos or both?
BOTH

Rick (2)
Old Oct 26, 2012, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by PrimeFlyer View Post
Question: The instructions say to use glue stick to secure the stabilizer rods to the stabilizer.
I'm wondering what is wrong with using EPOXY and NOT having the stabilizer removable. In the event of a damaging to the stab, just replace the stabilizer. The overall width of the stab is about 32 inches. I can live with that. I'm new to gliders and would appreciate your input.
Rick number 2
Plusses to removeable Stab -

Easy to store and transport
Much less likely to damage the stab getting it out of the house
Easy to fix or repair damaged parts


Negative to Removeable Stab

Makes some pilots nervous
Old Oct 27, 2012, 09:56 AM
DeadstickDuck is offline
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Electric

Flap servo reversing


I am setting my Flap servos to use a Y-harness. All I need to do is mod one of the servos (HS-82MG) to run in reverse.

Here is the proceedure for Hitec servos I found.
http://www.rcsoaringdigest.com/OTW/o...oReversing.pdf

Now I will be able to adjust camber/flaps using the Aux1 channel and its 3-position switch and trim button. Skipping the need for an extra channel on the rx
Old Oct 27, 2012, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeadstickDuck View Post
I am setting my Flap servos to use a Y-harness. All I need to do is mod one of the servos (HS-82MG) to run in reverse.

Here is the proceedure for Hitec servos I found.
http://www.rcsoaringdigest.com/OTW/o...oReversing.pdf

Now I will be able to adjust camber/flaps using the Aux1 channel and its 3-position switch and trim button. Skipping the need for an extra channel on the rx
Pretty cool article.

QUESTION: I understand why they did not want to solder on the SMT, but why did they cut the wires to the motor? It looks like it would have been simpler to de-solder the connection of the wires right on top of the motor and then switch them. Is there some reason to not mess with that connection?
Old Oct 27, 2012, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeadstickDuck View Post
I am setting my Flap servos to use a Y-harness. All I need to do is mod one of the servos (HS-82MG) to run in reverse.

Here is the proceedure for Hitec servos I found.
http://www.rcsoaringdigest.com/OTW/o...oReversing.pdf

Now I will be able to adjust camber/flaps using the Aux1 channel and its 3-position switch and trim button. Skipping the need for an extra channel on the rx
DX8? You are running the motor on the throttle stick?
Old Oct 27, 2012, 04:38 PM
DeadstickDuck is offline
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Electric
DX7, and this is my first glider in 20 years. I'm used to the throttle stick for power.

Yes, I agree. I'd just solder them myself..... Guess there are people who do not trust their hands and molten lava!
Last edited by DeadstickDuck; Oct 27, 2012 at 04:41 PM. Reason: soldering
Old Oct 27, 2012, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by DeadstickDuck View Post
DX7, and this is my first glider in 20 years. I'm used to the throttle stick for power.
The DX7 or 8 just doesn't have enough mixes for a powered full house glider. If I remember correctly from the radian pro thread, u have to give up a camber/reflex or crow.

Of the Spektrum radios only the DX10 and DX18 have dedicated sailplane type n mixing.
Old Oct 27, 2012, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by vhuang168 View Post
The DX7 or 8 just doesn't have enough mixes for a powered full house glider. If I remember correctly from the radian pro thread, u have to give up a camber/reflex or crow.

Of the Spektrum radios only the DX10 and DX18 have dedicated sailplane type n mixing.
Not so! I use a DX8 and have camber, reflex and crow.
Old Oct 27, 2012, 05:44 PM
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